DONE DONE DONE!

From: Victoria, BC
To: Kirkland, WA
via: Washington, Oregon, California, Arizona (ugh!), Utah, Colorado, Wyoming (winds!!!), Montana, Idaho, and Washington again.

And it's done. There was much going on in the last days - including a bit of a home stay on a almost 100% self-sufficient farm with the most adorable alpacas. Oh and Washington Pass has one heck of finishng two mile kick on it. Plus what trans-nation trip is complete without a little pot smuggling tale to round things up courtsey of some of my campsite mates.

There may be more cycling (I still have to get to Vancouver and then to Invermere for my car, some portion I may cycle) but for having to draw the line somewhere - it ends here.

No significant thoughts other than a fairly deep relief that I do not have to bribe myself up another mountain pass (and the three corresponding hours of suffering), that my bottom bracket did not give out, and that I otherwise survived the logging trucks and road construction.

Some bits to remember

best climb: Going to the Sun, Glacier National Park
Worst day: First day in Arizona. I think that was the worse day of cycling in my life. I think it was possibly one of the worst days of cycling in the history of cycling.
Best Descent: 30 odd mile descent from North Rim of Grand Canyone to Kabab (the desert is much better when you don't have to pedal and you can go fast. I think a plane is proabably the best way to see the desert.
Worse descent: Into Lincoln City when it was pournig rain, freezing cold. All the gunk on the roads got kicked up into my eyes so I couldn't see and my glasses fogged, the bob trailer was going boucning all over the place behind me. If joe's tire hadn't flatted, I probably would have stabbed my own.
Bloodiest day: When, in a rush to make Batman, I drop my bike and the big chain ring digs four teeth-sized chunks into my calf. Blood streaming down my leg, I think: well it's not like I have a first aid kit anyway, and limp off to the ticket booth. (I only missed the previews)
Closest I came to quiting: Never really happened. Mostly because the times I was about to lose it, there was no option to quit. Although in Zion National Park, waiting for my tent, I sometimes thought: would it be such a crime to just go home now?
Strangest thing said to me: A guy, after he realized I was with Michael and Joe, asked me if I did all my own pedalling (yes, i replied, i do). Also been asked by a motorist at a stoplight "are you cool?" (Yes, I replied, I am)
Number of other female solo cyclists met: One. (I was also the only one she met)
Number of problems I had as a single female? None.
Most inane song stuck in my head: 'Mary had a little lamb' In desperation, tried to reverse engineering the plot of Cats based on fragments of the soundtrack. Very hard. I have no idea what that musical was about.
Strangest habit: Have started referring to my bicycle and me as 'we' as in 'yes, we did this or saw that'
Would I do it again? Yes, but next time its going to be South America :)

Bye!!!

Republic, WA

Sherman's pass turned out to be epic. And not in a good way. Its 23 mile climb, with, as stated before over 4000 feet of elevation gain - the most of which seem to happen in the last seven miles (UNFORGIVEABLE). What was even worse is that, as far as I could tell, for the last seven miles, there were lots of places a road could have gone that did not involve all this climbing. You'd look around, and everywhere would be going down except the road! I had a lot of rage against the road builder - it got personal. ("why are you doing this to me?!?!?! I hate you!!!!!"). If he'd had suddenly shown up I'd have cheerfully bear sprayed him. Plus it was really cold at top, so on / off with the layers constantly, and still chilled on the descent.

Last night - no the night before last - I shared a campspot with Dan and his wife Jean. They are memorable for how generous they were with their beer, and also because their house had just burnt down that day (Jean told me that it was the first time she'd been able to say the words without crying). I'm not sure what kind of house it was, as it was in a friend's shop, and the shop burnt down. Something about a fifth wheel home? I don't know. But it was very new, had all their photos, etc. of when the kids where babies.

I didn't ask about insurance. From the way Dan said, "we will just start all over again."
It didn't sound like they were expecting a windfall of cash.

Going to hang out in Republic until I fill slightly less resentful to road surveyors everywhere and then will tackle the next climb - a meager 2000 feet. Should be a fun-filled afternoon!

Ione, Idaho 85 ish miles so far

More really gorgeous scenery! And finally no wind!!!!
When I first mentioned this cycling trip to my mom she suggested that I just stay in Invermere and cycle around there. I was all 'you don't get it!' but now that I'm back in the BC/Washinton region - it is some of the best cycling of the entire trip. Temperature, road conditions, scenery. Everything.

Unfortunatly, think I pulled some sort of muscle in my left leg. Body - for the last three months you have been a rock star. You have stoically accepted endless abuse without complaint (well except the day out of phoenix, az. But that day was so full of fail that it doesn't count). Knees - you have exceeded my wildest ache-free expectations. I've barely even had a sniffle. HOWEVER - Please PLEASE hold it together for the next five days!

Tomorrow the climbing begins in earnest. 1300 foot climb warm up and then the main course - 4000+ feet to the top of Sherman's Pass. I may try to get the 1300 footer out of the way today, as it is only three in the afternoon.

Today:
Libby, MT to Sandpoint, Idaho (95ish miles)
currently in Clark Fork, ID

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This morning started really tough. With lots of wind, tired legs, and beginning to that mental calculation of exactly how bad things have to get before I can justify just calling it quits (assuming my bike suddenly fails - how expensive does the repair have to be in order to not fix it?). Very much like how at the end of term you start looking at fast moving cars as solutions. ('if i step in front of that car then I don't have to write anymore exams or even study for them! Probably only get a broken arm and some cracked ribs!)

Then things got better! Can't really explain it - the wind calmed down, the clouds cleared up, and I just cheered up. Didn't even require a diner breakfast.

Also met Jim, an elderly Irish gentleman, who is making his way from New York to Anacortes.

Oh and I realized I never put in my favorite (as in, most horrifying) Dru quote.
(Dru was the crazy woman who tried to make me cycle Monument Valley).
We're eating dinner and I'm not really listening to her very much as she goes on and on about the various men in her life. Then she goes. "So there we were at dinner and I order a nice bottle of wine but can't finish it. I don't want it to go to waste and I tell him to finish it. He doesn't want to, but I pressure him until he finally does. It was an okay date, but he was normal then. The next time I saw him he had lost his job and house."
She thinks for a bit.
"I'll tell you one thing. that's the last time I make a recovering alcoholic drink."

Libby, MT

Yesterday got from Fernie to just outside a little place called Eureka (this is my second 'Eureka' of the trip). It has occured to me that if I had just decided to go get my car in Invermere, I would be there by now and not updating you about the woes of a worn out back tire (requiring me to switch my front tire to my back and put my spare on my front) and the two inner tube changes that i've made in the last two days, the worst hamburger ever (junction of 3 and 93 west of Fernie). Oh and the wind.

However the die is cast and all that and i'm focused on the 700 or so miles left to seattle.

Good points have been the lake/pine tree scenery. And lots of up and down (the down parts are the good points).

Right now I'm in Libby, Mt and off to see the fire department about camping arrangments.

Saturday did 107 miles from Avalanche Campground in Glacier National Park to Pincher Creek, AB

- Going-to-the-sun climb (west to east) is the greatest climb ever! Every cyclist should do it if they get the chance. Its not steep, so you can just spin up it for a couple of hours - AND 'climbing' speed is the perfect speed to take in the views. I started climbing at 7 am to avoid the heat and the cars and it was amazing. The sun coming up over the peaks, the waterfalls of melting snow spilling over rocks, no problems with traffic. Great. Sure, like all climbs you end up wishing it was a mile shorter a mile from the end, but over all - three thumbs up!
- the rest of the day. Ups and Downs. Nothing really remarkable until I crossed the cdn border and immediately got attacked by blackflies. ick. But Waterton National Park was great too. Then, coming up to Pincher Creek, I saw the worst thing a cyclist could see (i used to think it was the 'passing lane' signs until I saw the decapitated deer lying on the shoulder) BUT it was an entire field of windmills pointing in the direction I was going. I had to stop for five minutes to absorb how something so good (green energy, yey!) could cause me so much despair.

HOWEVER, for once FOR ONCE the gods were smiling on me! And for the last 17 miles, as I started crossing this expanse - THERE WAS NO WIND. I felt like Odysseus - finally being allowed home. Unfortuntely, proving that as flies to wanton boys are we to the gods, the next morning the wind was back full force, the windmills gustily spinning as I headed out with very low spirits. The 76 miles today to Fernie were pretty long miles.

Now that I have crossed Crows Nest Pass East to West, no one else needs to do it. Its up there with 'cycling across deserts' as an experience just best avoided. OF COURSE in one of the numerous gas stations I stop at, the locals tell me: 'windy? this is a calm day here in the pass' Whatever. I had to pedal down a 4-5% grade just to stop from being blown over! Pedaling downhill!!!!! That's just wrong. It felt like a sign of the apocalypse. I did eventually get through it, but I took my time. No 'historic point of interest' went unread, no visitor centre unvisted, no scenic lookout unviewed. It was perhaps the most educational 76 miles of my trip.

Finally I'd like to dedicate what's left on this post to my sister Julie who is on her trip to France and Italy. Julie doesn't like to talk to me about her vacation plans because she says I don't get excited enough and say things like "If all you are doing is sitting on a horse while it blindly follows the horse in front of it, then No, I don't see what's so exciting about trail riding through the Belize jungle."

Which gets her mad.

So I'm taking this opportunity to say how excited I am for your trip, Julie, and I hope all sorts of exciting Hepburn-esque adventures happen. Perhaps your suitcase will get swapped with a mysterious stranger's and hijinks ensue. Or you haplessly catch the wrong train, get invited to a formal diner and require the sage bellhop's aid in acquiring a dress!? Who knows! Things like that happen in Europe. Even if its just you and your friends hanging out sipping wine and chewing bread (the only two things I suspect you'll be able to afford :) than that still sounds like an awesome time and I'm happy and excited for you. MYLYBS.

ETA: tomorrow back across the border and then onto Seattle for the fourth and last leg of my trip.

ETA2: my phone doesn't work in canada. I am just cursed when it comes to cell phone. Maybe it will work when I get back to the States.

Columbia Falls. MT

Wednesday:
Left Missoula, cycled another 28-ish miles to Headquarters Lubrecht Experimental Forest. There I camped in the midst of a youth camp (but for free!) and shared the cycling area with Doug - a retired US Army Colonel. The people you meet cycle-touring! I totally quized him about the US military. Not the type of person I'd been expecting as a colonel. He is on a trike, and cetainly had me convinced about its comfort benefits (even if it does require a lot of space on the road). Heading from Jasper to Charleston (his home town). He also shared with me his touring motto: Start slow and ease up. :)

He was also carrying 60 lbs of gear and absolutly could not believe how little stuff I have. I told him that other than the guys carrying their dogs, I think he's the heaviest I've meet.



Thursday: Left the campground and did 100 easy aweseome miles. Just endless lakes lined with sheltering pine trees. Perfect 66 degrees. Kept on going cause I wanted Spent last night sharing a campsite with Martin, a german dude who actually may have had more stuff than Doug - except that Martin is doing the great divide, which is a mtn bike route that requires a lot more gear. Although I doubt he needs all FIVE pots/pans/dishes. I also introduced him to the wonder of coucous.

Today: From here (Columbia Falls) I have another 30 miles to give me a nice short day to the base of 'Going-to-the-sun' highway. Then first thing bright and early tomorrow I shall be climbing the 3,500 ish feet. Bicycles are prohibited on the roads betwen 11 am and 4 pm. So there is an exciting element of time to the whole thing (although I do wonder what they do if its 11 and you aren't at the top yet? Do they collect all cyclists and just drive them up the rest of the way?)

Sunday I expect to be in Canada heading towards Fernie. Where I will then loop South to connect to the northern route through Washington. Where incidentally - there is going to be about a pass a day (what a way to end the trip- just climb after climb after climb).

It is going to be quite difficult to be in Fernie, and head south rather than just heading to my car in Invermere. The temptation may be too much to resist!

eta: apparently its puppy season. Gamboling puppies everywhere!!!! So cute! Also - the only thing weirder looking than a llama? A shaved llama. I saw one today and thought: why is that poodle grazing?

slight change of plans!

Instead of heading back to Invermere before the Seattle wedding, I think I'm going to cycle to Seattle. There might be a bit of a dramatic ending, timing wise - but I am confident I can do it (when am I not? :)

Maybe I'll even have an extra day or so for Glacier National Park.

As close as I can get google maps to show me, its this: plus heading to seattle at the end!


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(right now I'm in Missoula, MT, headquarters of Adventure Cycling Association.) The bike chain thing is fixed. Rear cassette is fine. THe horrendous noise was due to me threading the chain UNDER a metal thingy rather than OVER it when I re-snapped the chain together. All I am going to say about this is the same thing I said to the bike guy when he showed how the chain was supposed to go: Its amazing how you learn something every day.

May stay here tonight or move onto a campground. Checking out the weather.

Darby, Montana

Montana is a great place to cycle. Even with the head winds that have apparently decided to torment me through the state. AND even with my chain snapping yesterday in the midst of a climb (the same chain I bought in Jackson Hole). Luckily I have this extra link that I could put in to chain it together again - but now it makes this horrific noise and I'm sure its eating my rear cassette all to peices. Only another 60 or so miles to go to another bike shop!

That's the thing with touring. So many things happen in one day - you are in total awe and amazement over a view (or a egg omelete) and then 90 mins later you are staring at your broken chain, in the middle of 46 miles of NOTHING, 230 miles to the nearest bike shop - 1500 feet left to climb, thinking 'ok, what now?"

Montana is best when you are cycling next to one of its wonderful rivers, waving at the fly fisherpeople, with the temperature a friendly 75. Montana also has endless vistas of grassy plains. These grassy plains are great as you descend into them and think 'wow - that's endless!' , but after three days, and you are STILL IN THIS GRASSY PLAIN, all you are thinking is: end already!!!!!

Of course they end with a climb through a mountain pass, so its not all good news.

This morning was one of those mornings where i told myself: 'Sarah, today is a success if you just get out of bed.'
It was pouring out, and the bugs were especially vicious. But I got out of my tent, staggered the 500 meters into town (Wisdom), and waited in a local cafe drinking copious cups of coffee until the weather cleared slightly. Then I returned, packed up my campsite,and got going. Two hours later, as I was hitting the climb for the day, the weather cleared, the sun came out, and I enjoyed one of my best descents. Seven miles down highway 93. Good pavement, no traffic. GREAT.


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Plus 16 miles off route which I decided I'd rather cycle and camp for free than pay KOA's exorbiant tent fees. 25$ for a tent?????? Gimme a break!!!

West Yellowstone

Did 80 miles yesterday through the park. 15 miles today before hitting town and deciding I needed the day off. Since its been raining on/off all day, seems to have been a good choice. If its still raining tomorrow may take a full day off for real, and maybe even have another shower :0

Yellowstone park *is* amazing. Fields of steam floating past, the colours in the pools - the problem is there are so MANY people! It is packed. Its really hard to appreciate Old Faithful when you have to listen to a british man berate his wife to THINK before she opens her mouth to SPEAK to him. I want to come back in the winter/fall for a week. I think the park would be a lot easier to experience without all these people.

There was a good moment when I was unlocking my bike when a woman approached me - saying how they were behind me in their RV on a descent and paced me at 42 mph - which they couldn't believe - then when they finally passed me her two boys shouted :"And its a girl!"

hee.

:)

Jackson update

the wind may be blowing in the right direction!
Spent some time in the bike shop (and 200$)
- new bike shorts(100 but ABSOLUTLEY NEEDED)
- handle bars re-wraped
- new chain
- new cleats for my shoes (i've lost track - third pair? Fourth?)
- a net for carrying things on my handlebars that will hopefully work better than my bungee.

DID NOT BUY
- and $125 gorgeous merino wool bike jersey in my size (and with pockets!) that i came so close to buying. Because it is the best material ever for long term use and abuse. But in the end could not bear the idea of sending my Team Canada jersey home. Plus, 125 dollars buys a lot of cliff bars :)

A lot of cycling.

RAWLINGS TO Jackson Hole(too many miles to count)

Left Rawlings Sunday at about 7:00. Little did I know it then, but I would do 125 miles that day.

Nice smooth early morning (non-windy) ridin) for 30 miles until I hit my first destination:
"In south-central wyoming, 125 miles of highway stretch from Casper south to Rawlings. Along the east side of the highway, just south of Lamont, is an oasis. It's called ...
GRANDMA'S CAFE - OPEN"
(from the menu).

A DINER BREAKFAST! My first in a long time. As I was the only customer, I sat chatting with Grandma for about an hour or so before heading on my way. Back on the bike I go - the scenery in Wyoming just improved the further north and west I went - and at this point I was getting 20 mile vistas of wyoming plains, herds of antelope galloping beside me. Pretty spectacular. Another 11 miles, hit another reststop (Muddy Gap), then another 20 miles, and I'm at my destination for the day. Jeffrey City. Population 2, as far as I could tell. The old guy who ran the cafe/bar/restaurant and his friend. I stopped in for a coke (I know! terrible! but I'm having so much trouble drinking enough that I've had to start drinking carbonated or else my stomach just feels awful). Anyway, the the two old men were glued to what I can safely say is the worst movie of all time. I only saw half an hour of it, but it had the actors talking to animatronic shark fins, and the fins listening! The plot was genetically engineered sharks escape into a lake. It had lines like 'It may sound like science fiction, but it's not - it's science fact!' complete with a little blonde girl with pigtails, and the two main scientists being a bickering divorced couple. IT WAS AGONIZINGLY terrible.

It was 1:30 pm, and I looked at that place and I thought : I can not spend another 7 hours of day light here. I will go crazy. There were headwinds, but not terrible headwinds. Looked at my map, saw that next reststop was 20 miles up the road - thought ok. I can do that. Three miles into that leg and I meet two oncoming tourers who tell me that there is a 'guy with a beard' 10 miles a head of me. Well! As Joe would say, you might as well have dangled a fresh peanut butter and banana sandwich in front of me! Someone else going in my direction? I told them good bye, and put on my time-trialling hat. Hands in the drops, helmet tucked as far into my handle bar bag as possible, and I was off. My hope was to catch him while he was still taking a break at Sweetwater (the next stop). I get to sweetwater - he's gone. Crap! the next town, Lander, is another 40 miles. I'm already at 85 miles for the day. But he's probably just a head of me, its only 3:30. I can do it. Back on the bike. Back to time trialling. 20 miles later I catch him.

It's Dave. A 22 year old guy taking six months before starting flight school with the US airforce. Just a really nice, solid, grounded guy. We trundle through the last 20 miles together and camp out at Lander - a cycling -friendly and otherwise really cool town - free camping in the city park. one of my fellow campers was practicing their flame-sword throwing. Was quite spectacular after dark.

Also in Lander, had one of the weirdest conversations I've had yet (which is saying a lot). In the morning as I'm waiting for Dave (he's one of those meticulous guys who takes forever to pack up) the 'alumiun can collecting guy' comes to the garbage bin near me. He says hello, I say hello, we chat a bit about cycling (my bike is with me) and then he goes:

Him: So, are you from Germany?
Me: What? No, Canadian.
Him. French Canadian?.
Me: No... English.
Him. huh. (pause) Lady, you have one strange accent.

then he walks off with his bags of aluminum cans. Was he messing with me? I have no idea!

But Lander = coolest town in Wyoming so far.

MONDAY - LANDER TO ASPEN MEADOWS (80-odd miles)
The next day, Dave talks me into heading off to this cyclist only camping spot 80-odd miles. Dave called ahead to the people who 'run' it (its basically their home) and the guy there (also Dave - Hostel-Dave) thinks its not a good idea to try to make it in one day. Cycling-Dave hangs up the phone and goes: I think we can make it. Actually what he says is, I'm pretty sure I can make, and I'm sure you can. Showing that despite knowing me for only about 4 hours, he'd already figured out how to manipulate me.

We did not get an early start. Didn't leave until maybe 8:30. Nonetheless the first 40 miles were nice. Gradual climbing, but as I said, scenically, Wyoming just kept on getting better. Green sands! These giant cubic stones looking like protruding molars. Really gorgeous and unique looking. Then we get to Crowheart. 27 miles to Dubois (the next town), 36 miles to the cycling hostel.

Me: Well Cycling-Dave, I think you're right. I think we will make it. The only thing that could cause us problems now is if the wind picks up.

WHOOSH

The wind picked up. Both of us in our easiest gear, staring at our feet, just plowing our way, weaving as the wind shoved us around. Dave is going at maybe 4 miles per hour, and I just can't. I just can't go that slow. I go in front, and within a mile can't see him anymore. On I go. Cursing the wind (why won't you stop???). What really ends up screwing me up is that my map indicates there is a gas station 6 miles from Dubois. So I lock onto that gas station with the mental ferocity of a rottweiler. I'm drinking my water knowing that there is this gas station, i'm doing my 'mile countdown' to the gas station. Well guess what? NO GAS STATION.

After another agonizing HOUR i finally hit town, where I have to cycle another mile before I reach a store I can buy something at. I am raging against the town - every town should have a mini-mart or something at its main entrances! !!!! I finally hit a pharmacy (of all things) and I stagger in. The woman at the counter looks at me and goes 'should I get you a glass of water or just call 9-1-1?'

which to be fair, I don't think i looked *that* bad.

It took me just over 3 hours to do that 25 miles. I wait in the town for about 75 minutes for Dave. He does not show up. I call Hostel-Dave, saying I'm still going to try to get there (Nine more miles! into the wind!). He asks where other dave is. I dunno, I tell him, I lost him in the wind. 15 mins later, still no sign of cycling-Dave, I head off. Hostel- Dave earns my gratitude for life for driving out and picking me up with still three miles left. SO HAPPY TO GET OUT OF THAT WIND.

Hostel-Dave and his wife Jo-An, basically open their home to cyclists coming through the area. Its not a hostel, its their home. Wonderful old wooden cabins to sleep in, a garage for bikes, they cook the cyclists dinner and breakfast (more than you could possibly eat). Its all incredible and incredibly unexpected. And so much history! hostel-Dave's family has been in the same town since 1893 or something. I really felt I got a glimpse of wyoming that i never would have staying in a campsite, or just cycling through.

Cycling Dave shows up there in about another hour. So he's been on his bike straight for almost 12 hours. The two of us greet each other as if we just unexpectedly survived a gruesome battle.

Me: "I'm sorry! I just had to leave you! I just couldn't go that slow! I would have died."
Him: No! I was glad you went! I was hoping you weren't waiting!"

After a nights sleep and endless: spaghetti, fruit, salad, yogurt, water, juice, blueberry pancakes, we head off again. Fortified for the days cycling which includes: 2,500 feet of climbing over 20 miles. After the climb, Dave and I split up, as he's a hurry to get to Yellowstone, and I want to see Jackson Hole. Down a 17 mile descent, across a grassy plan, with the Tetons, as otherworldy as a second moon, slowly rising in the distance.

I miss my campground and have to backtrack 8 miles (resulting in a day of 75 miles - which I did NOT NEED). I was not pleased. Campground was beautiful (nestled at the feet of the Tetons) and as I was cycling in the wrong direction I meet Allie (out for an evening ride) - a woman who has an engineering degree but has spent the last 8 years out here in Jackson Hole, skiing during the days, waitressing tables at night.
"I just love to ski" she tells me "I just love it. You know?"
I KNOW!

Camped out at Jenny Lake. Cycled the 15 miles or so this morning into Jackson Hole where I plan to spend the day in the library, in the coffee shop, and otherwise NOT RIDING MY BICYCLE until about 3:00 pm, when i'm heading back out 35 miles to a campsite. (there isn't really anywhere to stay in town that's inexpensive). Of course if there is wind, I am not going anywhere. I do not care. i can not mentally handle another 35 miles into the wind. I would make it as far as the Jackson Hole Airport, and I believe that would be the end of my trip.

Here's hoping the days become less epic. I am starting to get really tired.

San Diego Zoo

As I'm killing time avoiding the sun, I'd thought I'd give an update on this.

When I was in San Diego, I stayed an extra day and checked out the San Diego Zoo. I LOVED IT. Overheard all sort of great 'american quotes' my favourite being this woman, who after observing the polar bear exhibit commented on how adorable they were, then added : "We have *got* to take that trip to Canada." Clearly expecting to be greeted by frolicking polar bears once she crossed the 49th. In fact, I can't imagine a better way to discourage tourism than to have 'playful' polar bears waiting at the border crossings.

In her defence, these polar bears were RIDICULOUSLY cute. They wrestled, they played with their toys - one would sumersault into the water, and the other would watch carefully, then timing it correctly, bellyflop *ontop* of his friend, sending them both spinning to the bottom admist giant waves and spashes. At one point, one of the polar bears put a bucket on his head while wrestling - the other polar bear decides this is a great idea and puts a bucket on his head too. Now we've got two semi-blinded polar bears wrestling with each other with buckets on their heads - flapping their giant paws, backing over each other, bouncing off of walls, crashing into the water - cue giant air bubbles of surprise - are you getting the sense how cute these bears were? If I thought one of these goofballs was going to show up at my door, I would never leave Canada.

BUT that's not what this post is about. As a canadian, my admittance ticket got me a free tour and a free skyride (its a special discount for Canadians - probably a thank you for their number one exhibit). On this tour, the tour guide, a well spoken, knowledgeable woman said the following: 'and isn't it great that the San Diego Zoo provides free parking!' and I thought about it, and I didn't think it was so great that they were encouraging everyone to drive cars - but I didn't say anything.

Then I thought it about it some more, and that I should have said something. That it's because people like me don't say stuff that the world is in the shape that its in - that if you're not part of the solution you are part of the problem, yada yada yada.

So the next morning I decide to write an email to the San Diego Zoo, saying that I thought it was inappropriate that an institution that prides itself on its conservationalism efforts, subsdizes cars (via free parking) over alternative transportation. I suggested that they should charge for parking, and use those extra funds towards encouraging alt. transportation.

I get back as pretty basic Customer Service reply: Thanks for you comments, we love it when our guests take an interest... hope to see you again soon at the zoo...' malarky. Him/her also informed me that the parking lot was owned by the city and as such they couldn't charge for it.

I was off to the Grand Canyon and didn't really think much of it until I got to Zion, and suddenly had a lot of time to think. At which point I realized that it didn't matter whether it was the Zoo's decision to charge for parking or not, what mattered was the effect - and the effect was that people who drove were getting a benefit, thereby encouraging that behaviour.

So I wrote back. Outlining that arguement - and suggesting that since they couldn't charge for parking, at least they should offer a similar incentive for those who came by alternative transportation. A five dollar discount or something.

I would like to suggest that the Zoo offset this [driver benefit] by offering a discount/benefit for those who come by bus or bicycle. Perhaps five dollars off admission price for those who produce a bicycle or a valid bus ticket.

Initially, I do not believe (based on the few bicycles I saw in the bike rack) that such a policy would have a significant impact on your admission dollars generated. In the alternative, if it was wildly successful in encouraging individuals to leave their cars at home, to the extent it was impacting those dollars - then it would be a great accomplishment for an organization like yours.


I concluded with
I understand that you may not be the person making these policy decisions. But if you agree in principle with subsidizing alternative transportation - that it is a 'good idea' in line with the Zoo's objectives in promoting sustainability, I would appreciate you forwarding this email to the individuals who are responsible.


I get back nothing.

About a week later I get back a reply that is almost identical to the first reply they sent me, but with out the parking information.

NOW I'm annoyed. But more than that, I'm intrigued.

Offering a discount to cyclists or public transportation riders is a total no-brainer! OBVIOUSLY any remotely green organization should be doing that! Plus it would be so easy to do! There is no reason (that I can think of, or that they have provided me) why they are NOT doing it. Other than the obvious that someone can't be bothered to make a decision to do it.

So I'm intrigued to find out exactly how hard it is to get a good idea implemented, for no reason other than - it's a good idea!. Stay tuned!

learning about american geography the hard way.

Those last fifty miles yesterday were a mistake. But the kind of mistake you don't realize you've made until it can't be fixed and there is nothing to do but put your head down and turn your feet.

For the last fifty miles, and for the next couple of hundred miles - I am in the Great Basin, WY. Defining characteristic? EXTRODINARILY WINDY. Yesterday's 50 miles started out fine, than deteriorated.

Hour one: 15 miles
hour two: 12 miles
Hour three: 10 miles
Hour four: 8 miles
Hour five: 5 miles.

(the wind just got worse and worse as the afternoon progressed. I couldn't hear anything because of its howling in my ears. Like, I was riding on a highway - couldn't hear traffic. I think this accounts for the large amount of roadkill I've seen on these highways (i stuck to the large shoulder). I was counting 5-10 carcasses a mile. Everything from snakes, to rodents, to birds, to deer.

At the point that you are cycling at five mph, you are pretty much just on a grim death march until the end. My personal litany in times like this is: 'Just keep turning the pedals. This is how the bike works. If you are turning the pedals, its working. Keep turning the pedals. This is how the bike works.' and 'No you are not allowed to get off your bike until you fall off it.'

At three miles left I tell myself: Its THREE MILES you could be dead and still cycle three miles. You aren't dead, so quit whinging!' (I have all sorts of sayings for different mileages)

Today has gone much better. On the advice of fellow tourers (who are all going the other way than me - I think it has something to do with the wind) I left at 6:45 am. Was in Rawlings by noon (60 miles). I have now met almost a dozen tourers. Including one guy who was bringing his dog. I look at her and my first question is: how much does she weigh? 50 lbs. She's an AWESOME dog though, so I can see how he couldn't leave her.

At the campground in Rawlings. Am not really looking forward to the next couple of hundred miles. But then Yellowstone! And people tell me it gets good around there.

why, it's almost fun!

View Larger Map

Colorado is so far turning out much better. Right now I'm in Walden, CO, 'moose-viewing capital of Colorado' for those of you who feel your moose-viewing needs have been unmet.

Its GREEN here. And there are RIVERS and other BODIES of water. SNOW on the mtn tops. Pine forests (absolutely ravaged by the pine-beetle through). I've seen fly-fisherpeople. I've seen SIX other bike tourers. (all going the opposite way than me), and I think I surprised the first two when I swooped down across the road, exclaiming 'you're touring! hello! how *are* you?' and then stood there grinning. They were dutch (with American flags for some reason - although also dutch flags. So hedging their bets?).

Drivers give you lots of space. Did 75 miles yesterday about (2000 feet of climbing -crossed the continental divide), about 45 miles so far today. I was going to try to get here (Walden) for a diner breakfast, wake up early and all that - but when I woke up at 5:00 am, i discovered a layer of frost over all my stuff, including my clothes that I had left out to dry. It turns out that as keen as I may be on cycling (and diner breakfasts), I draw the line at putting freezer-burned clothes on first thing in the morning. I went back to bed and waited for the sun to peak over the mtns (8:00 am) - et viola - half an hour later, my clothes were de-iced and dry.

The next town is 50 miles up the road. But I don't really have any other plans for today, so might go for it.

eta: the san diego zoo is beginning to annoy me... but i think that will have to be a rant for another time.

new phone number 425-591-2581

its one of those US pre paid ones. I'm only using it for the rest of the time i'm in the US. I probably won't be calling you unless I've got your number memorized b/c all the ones in my old phone have vanished.

UPDATE
- I am here in Denver, CO. YIPEEE
1)Yesterday rode 50-odd miles from Zion to St. George. 110 degrees, which wasn't even all that hot, compared to some of my previous days. Stayed at a hotel (only $40, couldn't be bothered to sort out camping). Plus clean at last! Showers! Nice cold showers!!! Was going to get a good night sleep before my long drive today, instead stayed up until 2:30 watching some sort of Deadliest Catch marathon. I think I was memorized by all that cold water. So much of it! So cold!
2) No cyclist ever needs to cycle the I-70. SO HAPPY TO BE IN CAR. That stretch of the road was the best argument I've ever seen for cars. Or teleporation. just Ugh.
3) Looking forward to cycling in the mountains. I think its going to feel like going home. Not alien, like the desert felt.

The first day of the desert (badlands whatever you want to call it) when I was driving out of San Diego, I stopped around noon and just stood outside my rental car. I was surrounded on all sides by endless sand dunes. The realizatoin hit me that *I* was probably the largest body of water for a significant distance. Right on the heels of this realization was a thought that every entity - living or not- in that desert was out to steal my water from me. Redistribute the wealth. The air felt like it was leaching water from my skin. I could picture all these desert creatures (tiny and large) suddenly sensing that I was there - this source of water, and slowly creeping up, surrounding me - it made the desert seem really hostile. So no, I didn't really like the desert. I had a few really nice moments, usually early early in the morning, just as the sun was peaking up over the horizon, with my cycling shadow self stretching miles across barren red lands. A sense of peace. But only very rarely. Usually you felt like you were racing the sun from the moment you turned the days' first pedal. And you were going to lose.

I asked Josh if he was going to do another bike tour. He said: Not in the desert.

I used to think I'd really enjoy living on Dune. Let me tell you: NOT ANYMORE!!!!!

Tomorrow: The third leg of TdeS begins!

Good things:
- THE TENT HAS ARRIVED!
- Have found a car to rent from St. George Ut to Denver, CO (took calling eight different rental car companies, of course it was the last one - never give up! never surrender!)
- I'm leaving Zion!! (Zion, we had some good times, but ultimately, you made me feel trapped in the relationship)

Not-so-good-thing
- the bike map people sent me the wrong maps! they don't even CONNECT. So now I have to find a new address for them to send the right ones to me, and try to time it correctly. I can not wait until all I have to do is ride my bike again.
- all this fussing around means I'm going to have to haul ass to make it from Denver to Jasper through the rockies by the beginning of August. Depending on when I actually get started, we may be talking Tour de France mileage. A challenge worthy of Merle!

eta: merle's my bike.

eta2: a josh quote:
We were sitting at a picnic table, both of us eating bananas with nutella, using sporks.
Me: Know what's great about camping? How you do things you'd never do at home.
Josh: hmmm. (looks at himself) I hope I start showering again though.

Happy birthday to me!

Yep! Its my 32nd birthday today! Born on the lucky double sevens of July 7th! I definitely can't complain about my luck to date. The year in review:
- spent a summer rowing with Claudia on Lake Windermere (I've ALWAYS wanted to spend some time rowing). Those day-breaks on the lake were amazing - with the dead flat water shrouded in a foot or two of mist that would slowly evaporate as the sun rose and our workout went on... and on ... :) (as a bonus, cycling in the rockies was pretty nice too)
- Spent December down in Ecuador learning Spanish and surfing and otherwise having a spectacular good time (except the decomposing tortoise incident).
- Spent a winter ski teaching some pretty fun and funny 5-6 year olds. ("Do you really have Santa's cell phone number?").
- had the best skiing of my LIFE in Fernie after it dumped three feet and my awesome and ridiculously understanding boss was like 'go skiing!'. I finally understood what is meant by bottomless powder - it's not really like skiing at all.
- Finally faced up to what I've really known since second summer of law school (coincidentally first time I tried to work as an actual lawyer) - that I'm not meant to be a lawyer.
- Started my bike tour in may. And you people pretty much know the rest :)

But my favourite thing about right now isn't what I've done in the last year, its that I have NO idea what I'm going to do next year! None! It could be anything! The mind boggles!!!!

Good things that have already happened today:
- had an awesome birthday latte ( I treated myself) at the local cafe. Even better is that they are showing the tour de france!! Spent 90 minutes watching the last part of a very gripping and exciting stage. If you are un(der)employed, I hope you are watching!!!!

In less great birthday news
- still no tent (but I think the campground host is taking pity on me and arranging it so I don't have to pay for camping - which at $16 a night is really nice.) How can the world have so many problems in it when there are so many nice people???
- My bike has a flat tire (HOW?????) and in trying to change it this morning, I discovered my pump is broken. Good news is I got a better pump for 6 dollars! (on sale from $35. I guess road bike pumps don't really sell in Zion.
- Having a fly that doesn't fit properly on your broken tent (and having no pegs to attach it to the ground) means that when the wind comes up your fly ballons like a spinnaker, flaps like a giant flightless bird, and creates a horrendous noise as your tent starts to elevate. I woke up disorientated and panicked early one windy morning thinking a helicopter was trying to land in my campsite (the campsite is large, my tent is small, it made sense at the time). Since then, I've just left my fly off. Other than waking up covered in a thin layer of red dust, its actually been a nice, cool(er) solution. Until yesterday when Monsoon season began in Zion National Park. I got back from my hike after a 30 minute deluge of rain to discover that my fly (having not been used for over a week) was just about the only thing dry, buried as it was under my soaked sleeping bag and thermal rest. Good news: Everything dries here in about 30 minutes.

ETA: oh and I promised Dennis I'd mention him in my blog. Dennis is a fiftish? gentleman who works in the park, who reminds me a bit of Morgan Freeman. He approached me, curious as to what my job was for the park (no doubt as it appears that I don't do anything, nor am I wearing a Ranger uniform). We got to discussing 'journaling' - he is trying to start an journal but is having trouble knowing what to put in it. I told him I put things I wanted to remember and things I didn't want to remember in mine.

unbelievable

i just got an email from MEC which better be a *mistake* saying that they JUST shipped my tent to TORONTO thankyouverymuch.

I am SILENTLY SCREAMING right now.

eta: after calling MEC, it turns out that the tent IS coming here (not Toronto) and that it wasn't shipped today, but nor was it shipped on the 30th. It was shipped on July 3. Post Office is closed tomorrow. The soonest I can hope for it will be Monday July 7. After speaking articulately and silencing my inner scream on the phone (it is not, the person on the phone's fault, after all) I got my shipping paid back to me, and a $50.00 gift card to MEC as compensation. Which, better than nothing.

Josh is leaving tomorrow. Its been fun having someone to hike and do things with again. (He's a much more ambitious hiker so I don't do everything he does, but it generally seems to work out).

I just keep on reminding myself that there are worse places to spend a week and a half than Zion National Park (a lot of places actually, including an office :) and that it is a good thing that I can now probably sub in for a Ranger if the necessity arose.

Ranger Activites I can do:
- Recognize the call of the Canyon Wren
- Identify a Peregrine Falcon (dives over 200 mph).
- Have seen the freakiest looking bug ever (straight out of Pan's Labyrinth). Massive, bright blue, with red wings. Apparently its a form of wasp (biggest wasp I've ever seen) and has one of the most painful stings in the insect world. "...immediate, excruciating pain that simply shuts down one's ability to do anything, except, perhaps, scream."
- Have done all significant hikes from the main canyon.
- Can identify all significant landmarks in the main canyon
- Know the geological and social history of Zion National Park.

So the point is, if you are going to be in Zion over the next three days and need a guide, I'm here!

Sill in Zion

I believe this is my fifth day in Zion (if you count the day I arrived)

Its beginning to feel a bit like home:
- The rangers no longer ask for my pass when I enter the park
- I've been shown the secret apricot tree
- Last night I was given the 'local's' discount at the cafe ('you are local, aren't you?')
- Just now the librarian asked if I was working in the park for the season. (I explained I was just squatting here until my new tent arrived).

As it has not arrived yet, the earliest I can hope for is the fifth. Last night was very very windy. Since all my pegs are being used to stabilize/brace the broken end of the tent, there is nothing securing the rest of it from the wind. I got up to go to the bathroom at two am, and when I came back, my tent had rotated 90 degrees, flipped to its side, and collapsed.

I WAS NOT PLEASED.

my swiss hosts have moved on (however, I now have a place to stay ANYTIME I WANT in Switzerland. I was like 'cool'. Although i doubt I'll get to Switzerland in time to take them up on their offer. I've also been invited to Virginia by another set of my campground hosts - but I kind of feel these invitations have an unwritten expiration of two years.)

(The Virginia couple seem to want me to visit so they can find me a job).

In other news - Another touring cyclist has arrived at the campground - so now we're splitting a site. This is my third campsite in four nights? The way I've been skunking around the campground, dragging my broken tent after me from site to site, has made me feel like Zion's phantom of the Opera.

But back to the other cyclist!

His name is Josh, and this is his first tour too. Now, since I tried to bike from Phoenix to the Grand Canyon in June/July, I've decided it was insane. Josh's first tour? He biked from Yosemite to Zion through DEATH VALLEY. He said it was so hot that at night (no sleeping bag, no tent) he had to wake up every hour and spray himself with water from his camelback in order to stay cool enough to sleep. He started his day at 3:30 am.

Me: You win.

(To date, he's seen one other touring cyclist)

He's heading down towards the Grand Canyon then out to Monument Valley to New Mexico where his girlfriend is meeting him to drive him the rest of the way home (Oklahoma) .

Monument Valley is supposed to be its own special hell for a cyclist. I know because Dru (remember crazy Walmart Dru?) was obsessed with me cycling Monument Valley (because it was in Forrest Gump). She wanted me to do it EVEN though it was 100 miles out of the way, even though every bike store we went in to (three) all said : It's awful, don't do it.

Here is the conversation that we had in the Page bike shop.

Dru to Bike Store Guy (BSG): So, how do you get to Monument Valley?
BSG: You want to cycle Monument Valley?
Dru: She does (points at me)
Me: Not really. (we'd already been to two bike stores by this point)
BSG: We wouldn't recommend it. Its a desert.
Dru: But still.
BSG: Its a really dangerous road, too. There is nothing there.
Dru: But if you're going to anyway.
BSG: No one here cycles it at this time of year. There are sandstorms. Tremendous winds, dust everywhere. Temperatures at 120, road kill all over the place. And nothing, I mean, NOTHING, there.
(to me) Are you sure you want to cycle it?
Me: No, I don't want to do it.
Dru: How about you just tell us how to get there so we can see for ourselves?

( I had visions of Dru dropping me and my bike off at Monument Valley, then yelling 'Pedal!!' at me as she drove off - she was that persistent.)

Anyway. I wish Josh the best of luck, but for sure COUNT ME OUT. If there is one thing I've learned in the past two weeks, its when the local cyclists tell you 'don't do that' DON'T DO THAT.

eta: just read the wiki entry, and apparently, Airwolf - the supersonic helicopter from the 80s tv show - lives in Monument Valley. I'll have to tell Josh. It was also where the Griswald's car broke down in National Lampoon's Vacation. Still not enough to get me to bike there.

Happy Canada Day, Canada!

I feel like I should be doing something to celebrate Canada Day - but its not like I even have a flag (unlike a couple of cyclists we ran into outside of Santa Barbara - they pitched their tent and then stuck an American flag in the ground next to it. I found it very weird that someone would carry a FLAG in their own country when I don't even carry a hairbrush (ditched it in Eureka).

Update:
Zion- still spectacular. Hiked around the 'weeping rock' this morning.
Tent - still broken. New tent still en route.
Hair - is getting a bit out of control. washed it last night but there some significant knots that are defeating my 'finger-combing' technique.
Mood - optimistic (of course!)

ZION!!!

I love zion!!! I really do. Arrived at about 5 pm yesterday (80-odd mile day). Asked a swiss couple if they would mind if I shared their campsite (I offered to pay them but they refused). This is the best way to do campground camping I've found. I've done it three times, have yet to have to pay (although I always offer). Plus you get to meet interesting people. Just bike around the campground (I'm actually looking for other cyclists, but haven't found any yet) and then when you see some friendly looking people, just ask.

Anyway, my tent is still broken - the superglue was useless. My tent is current 'propped upright' thanks to the efforts of the South African couple next to us (and with a lot of rope, pegs, and a few rocks). My new tent is on the way from MEC, but they have no idea when it will arrive. As such I'm going to be hanging out here for the next bit.

Hiked this morning up a river, through ever-narrowing canyon walls. It was amazing. I will have no problem spending a few extra days here waiting for my tent. This place is on my top 5 list of amazing places - particularly the east section of the park that I biked through to get here. After an 8 mile climb, it was 20 miles downhill through these incredibly twisted rock formations. I have to do it again (and apparently I'll have the time) then one tunnel, and then the next.

The tunnels. I HATE tunnels. However, the second tunnel which is 1.1 miles long forbids cyclists - this is awesome cause it means that instead of having to ALMOST DIE cycling through it, the rangers standing there arrange transportation for you. Basically they flag down pick up trucks and you jump in the back with your bike. Then you get an awesome view of the tunnel and the 'windows' that have been carved out. I just wish my guy had driven slower.

ETA: Zion (Springdale) has a library!!!!!!! I am now officially totally set.

ETA: have figured out Leg Three of Tour de Sarah and have ordered maps (since I'm waiting for my tent might as well wait for my maps). I'm going to find alternate transportation from Cedar City, Utah, to Pueblo, CO and then start biking the 'Great Parks North Route' which will end me up right in Jasper!!

Left North Rim, Grand Canyon, yesterday afternoon around three. Did 30 odd miles before (Joe and Michael be proud) ditch/wild camping. Everyone said it was a totally safe area to do it in, and the campground was closed anyway. HOWEVER - guess what happens? My tent breaks!!!!! BREAKS!!!! So, not only did I ditch camp I did it without the benefit of a functioning tent. (I crawled into the collasped netting with my thermal rest and sleeping bag. But I lasted the nighht even if I only slept three and a half hours. EVEN though I knew it was totally safe, I just have the worse time keeping my imagination under control. When we were kids, our dad used to encourage us to go to sleep by telling us that if we were awake at midnight the witches would get us (not exactly a relaxing bedtime thought). To this day I have problems with midnight.

However I did it. Packed up at first light, on the road by 5:30. Get to Kanab around 8:30 (after a 30 mile descent) where I buy superglue and hope that I've fixed my tent. Then off again. Now I'm at Mt. Carmel Junction, 15 miles from the East Gate of Zion Park, 25 miles from the visitor centre. Kanab to Mt. Carmel juction was 16 miles, 1000 feet of climbing in 95 degree weather, but I handled it ok. (I can't believe I once thought 500 feet was a big climb. Oh Washington!)

I'm probably going to hang out here until it cools a bit, then do the 25 miles to Zion. Have to figure out how to get to Bryce too. They aren't in the same direction apparently. Bryce is out of the way for me.

Bye!!

Still at North Rim

The North Rim is great, better than the South. The hiker/biker section is the best part of the campground. I'm basically looking over the rim from my tent.

Also, there are lots of trails and hikes to do. Although I've pretty much only been doing the senior citizen ones - I'm just too tired. I've learned about Condors and met 74 year old Liz from Virginia who told me how 2 years ago she broke her leg in 2 places on the AT and had to walk three miles out to the road.

Update when I can.

North Rim - Grand Canyon

- Turns out Dru was crazy. Not scary-crazy, but definitely extremely irritating-crazy. She's a 54 year old woman, who through no small effort looks about 45. She never stopped talking. She tried to Bogart my trip and took me on a tour of Wallmart ("There is this most amazing store that you just have to see to believe"). Lake Powell was NOT the prettiest lake and I am glad to be out of Page. She was one of those Americans who thinks Canadians are from another planet. Happy to have ditched her.

- Yesterday biked 70 miles from Page to just outside Grand Canyon North Rim. Unbelievably hot again. Shared campsite with two Dutch couples one of who was a cheese engineer (only in Holland). They shared their campsite, their beer and their fire. Also, Joe - I've met the girl for you. She doesn't even camp with a tarp! (She's a rafting guide in the Grand Canyon, she will be at a rainbow gathering in Serbia in August, her name is Cleo and she is awesome).

- This morning only biked 25 miles to the Rim, but am utterly exhausted. No energy for anything. Good news is beyond all liklihood the North Rim campsite has a hiker/biker! Of course I am the only biker here. Will probably spend a few days recovering here from hellish week in the desert. It is gorgeous here, cool with trees and wind. A lot like Canada. I miss Canada.

- Will be in Cedar City in about a week, need to decide what to do next. Am definitely taking first public transport out of here to somewhere cooler. It is too hot to bike.

- Phone's still broken.

things just keep on happening and happening so quickly!

1)As I was biking from Williams to Flagstaff this morning (5:30 am - 8:00 am -32 miles) I passed that Arizona divide sign which said 7335 feet elevation. Then it occurred to me that some of my problems right now (not feeling well, mostly) might have something to do with altitude. I just spent 6 weeks on the coast, and then in the span of 2-3 days cycled myself up to 7000 feet in very grueling heat. As such I am determined to take a few days off

2) In the EXCELLENT NEWS! catagory - my roommate last night is driving pretty close to where I'm trying to get to (northern end of the grand canyon. She's also convinced me that I have to see Lake Powell. So I'm off to spend at least a day or two near a lake, and hopefully will start to feel a bit better. Her name is Drew. I think I'd like her very much even if she hadn't totally bailed me out. (There is no public transportation that accepts bikes up that way). Plus she's an ex-lawyer too!

3) Will try to sort my cell phone out in Lake Powell (as in, buy a new one)

So yes, not feeling 100% (haven't been for a few days) but am pretty confident I know why and that its fixable with a bit of rest. My bike is also being fixed as I type, and I get to go by car over the worse part of the grand canyon. Made a new friend. And apparently am off to see the 'prettiest lake in the world'.

minus some sort of miracle the phone is dead. So will be less updates. On the plus side, can stop getting charged so much by Rogers.

In cycling news. I found the one road cyclist in town who

1) fixed my bike as well as he could
2) told me to cycle to Flagstaff to have a bike store do the rest.
3) told me it was not a good idea (as in, a bad idea) to cycle from here up to the North Rim, and that I should arrange other transportation to Zion National Park. I believe him. I believe the words he used was 'barren land, absolutely nothing, winds, dust being thrown at you, just a disaster of a ride'. Also, there is 140 mile section through a reservation with no camping, and he took a very dim view of me just 'camping somewhere'.

So changes will be made. I mean, I just want to cycle!!!!! I want somewhere safe and somewhat fun to cycle. Maybe I should head back up to Canada after Zion National Park? Or maybe its time for plan B and I should head south to a surf town and spend my last month surfing - I've lasted way longer than 2 weeks at this cycle touring thing. Or learning something new. I need to do some serious thinking.

ETA: For tonight, after spending 2 hours in the visitor information centre while Brad the town cyclist was located, i learned that one of the local hotels keeps one or two rooms as hostel rooms. I got one! I've had a shower, a nap, and feel much better, although still no where near 100%.

ok. things just got worse.
My water bottle spilled all over my phone (and then my phone sat in the water for 30 mins), and now I think my phone is wrecked.

ohmygod i don't even know where to begin. The fact that yesterday's bicycle ride ended 14 hours after I started, that I cycled almost 100 miles in ridiculous heat (and paid for it). That I had to push my bike up the last 200 meters? This place is so hard to ride in.

Then this morning, off early, am 5 miles from my destination when my rear tire disintegrates. Just poof. This is the kevlar reinforced tire that I bought in Oregan. Its been worn *through* the threads, leaving a hole I can push three fingers through. The tire is shot.

I'm not carrying an extra tire. I know next bike store is in Williams, so i stick my hand out and the first car (a 1970 something vw bus/camper van) stops. Its a family of four- Phil and Laura, and their two sons. They make space for me, and throw my bike up on the roof. I was thinkng that if I was Michael I could be making small chat about Phil's cool vehicle (wonderfully well maintained) but as I am not, I couldn't. He kept on telling me details about the engines, or the doors, and I went 'ohh' and 'ahh' as convicingly as I could.

Get to Willams (after, as navigator, I put them on the wrong road) only to find out that the bike store has closed. Great. Next nearest bike store is Flagstaff. So now I'm off to figure out how to get myself and my bicycle from here to Flagstaff.

Have I mentioned how hot it is? Killer.

Of course another potential plan is to take the grand canyon train from Williams (what its famous for). See the grand canyon that way. then get to Flagstaff and reevaluate where exactly I want to be cycling right now. THIS IS JUST SO TOUGH.

In two days I've *needed* rides twice, lost a tire, broke a spoke, almost had heat stroke, had to take breaks climbing a hill, and had to push my bike.

IT IS JUST SO TOUGH.

Rogers Wireless Message

day turned around magnificantly thxs 2 Pat and his van. Savd me 25 m of HELL. am now resting half way up last climb b4 Prescott.

--
Sent from my Rogers Wireless Cellular Phone

I'm not going to lie. Today has not been an easy day. And its only 11:00. Maybe I need a diner?

Left the Phoenix Hostel a bit past five am (could have left earlier). Cycled the 60 odd miles here (Wickenburg). This was going to be my destination because the temperatures are so hot - i thought, 60 miles the first day in this heat - that's more than enough. Turns out that the camping here is RV only. So instead I'm going to take a break here until two or three (hang out in the library) then push on to the next labelled campground - Yarnell - another 30 miles but with 2000 feet elevation gain. I am however, not hopeful that it will accept tents either as it is called Oak Park Motel and RV Park. But there isn't any point in staying here.

Also, I got a flat. So now I'm worried about being down to one spare (Bike store tomorrow).

Also, I just found out that the library closes at noon (this is the kind of day its being). So I'm going to need to find some other a/c building to chill in for a few hours.

I don't know. Its just a tough day. Tomorrow will be better.


View Larger Map

Rogers Wireless Message

Phoenix,AZ -hostel. Renting car 2 get here was good idea. hot. 2morrw nxt leg begins! i predict it will also b hot. :)

--
Sent from my Rogers Wireless Cellular Phone

Still in San Diego

Today we got to Mexico!!!!! Or the border. The day got off to a slow start as I watched youtube conspiracy theorists on the topic of the American government being competent only in so far as it is corrupt (I am not a tough sell on this one, for pretty much any govt - thank you law profession). While this could be seen as added motivation to get to Mexico, in reality it only meant that we didn't leave until almost 11:00 am. Both of us under the impression that it would be a 35-ish m ride. Should take us two hours.

We got back at 8:00 pm (9 hrs!!!). Turns out it was more like 55 miles, setting our average speed at a blistering 6 mph. We dallied through pedestrian packed bike paths ('don't these people have jobs!')  stopped to watch surfing (we actually watched surfers watching waves, but so it goes). Stopped for an hour long lunch at the best rib place ever (Phil's??). Then sat on a ferry, where upon disembarking, we got real ice cream.  Which we sat around and ate. 

Its past four at this point and we decide we should just get to the border, which should be right around the corner. IT WAS NOT. First there was a (practically) endless bike path for 10 miles. Then we took this right turn, and suddenly, instead of cars, buses, and general urban sprawl of the last 100 miles or so, there was a cowboy cantering down the road on his horse. (while it took a while, we did eventually pass him). There were sprawling ranches, grassy fields, horses everywhere.   Not what I was expecting from the mexican border based on Babel.  It was great! A few more miles later and we were back, surrounded by cement. Got close enough to practically cross the border. Then caught the train back to Michael's place.

You know. I love my bike. But sometimes, I can love a train too.

Rogers Wireless Message

90 odd m 2 san diego 2day. Felt pretty long. I am only homeless person in Michael and Lindsay's apartment. yey!

--
Sent from my Rogers Wireless Cellular Phone

Leaving LA

Off tomorrow. Its been an excellent visit. Haven't done much since the Getty Center except watch golf. Which I don't play and don't really even like. But I started watching it Saturday. Got sucked in for Sunday, and of course had to watch Monday!

Besides, most of LA sight-seeing seems to be composed of seeing stuff I've already seen on tv. So clearly my time was better spent learning intricate details of what might be wrong with Tiger's knee.

the other benefit of this stressful tv watching regime is that I feel revitalized and excited about getting back on my bike tomorrow.

LA

Made it to LA! I'm current staying at a friends' apartment on the border of Hollywood and West Hollywood. She described it as a 'hole'. I describe it as a miraculous palace with easy water access, with room to sleep both on a sofa and the floor! Oh and a massive 30 odd foot ceiling. I met Nicole in law school on exchange in Australia, although she's not exactly a lawyer.

Me: And then I want to take you out to dinner as thanks for letting me stay here, I really appreciate it.
Nicole: No need!
Me: Seriously, I really appreciate it, its the least I could do.
Nicole: I just won $7,000 in a poker tournement. I'm taking you out.
Me: Okay!

The last few days into LA have been a bit of a blur. We (was still with Michael) did an excellent detour into the Valley - into Buelton - met Beth and Tim - had way too much famous Anderson Pea Soup. Which wasn't all that exceptional, and insisted in sloshing around in my stomach for the next 15 miles through the heat.

That night we stayed in a campground designed for a couple of thousand campers, but it was basically just us. Which you would think would be peaceful and relaxing but it was not. Every animal who lives off those thousands of campers decided to come investigate us. As a result, at least two skunks (Michael's reaction when they showed up was to promptly question me on skunks and their behaviour. Like I have some degree in skunkology - avoid them, was my advice.), probably somewhere near half a dozen racoons, and dozens of these chipmunk/prairie dogs came to visit. Within five minutes of sunset three creatures had triangulated themselves around our position, their eyes glowing eerily at me as I tried to plan out my escape to the bathroom - not being able to determine skunk or racoon in the darkness made it even more treacherous. I want to scare racoons, but not skunks! That night, you could hear their feet scurriring around your head from inside your tent. I really missed joe and his tarp - they would have loved investigating him! I'm sure if Joe was there I would have slept soundly and in the moring have been greeted by a hollow-eyed Joe rendering epic battle tales of the creatures he faced off with in the night.

The next day was a treat of a climb. 2225 feet of hellish heat pounding away on my bike and back for four and a half miles. To badly paraphrase Tolstoy - every descent is enjoyable for the same reasons, every climb is horrible in its own unique way. The unique moment of hell on this climb was when the sweat on my face felt like it was being boiled off by the sun. I thought: This is new.

Down into Santa Barbara, which I wasn't overly impressed with. But then again, I'm not in a cityscape frame of mind. Out along the beaches until we hit the campground. The problem with camping near cities is that the hiker-biker spots are an attractive option for vagrants. For three to five dollars a night, anyone can stay. Don't even need a tent. We first encountered homeless in Monterey. None of them we have met so far seem dangerous, but many have been distinctly weird. We have also met a fair share of weird non-homeless people. Michael's british accent* seems to attract them - plus I have observed that his technique of ending a conversation with people by asking them more questions - is a failure.

[*A good number of people, upon hearing his accent, ask if he's canadian - which never fails to crack me up]

Anyway, weird people at campgrounds. The night before last, in the last campground before LA were two gems. Not homeless per say, but these two guys living on their bikes for most of the year. The first one , a large guy built like the stay-puff marshmellow man, introduced himself as an ex-navy seal, wounded in combat (his neck) who had issues from all the people he killed. He dealt with his issues by riding his bike instead of booze and drugs like many of his peers.
"I'll be honest with you. I've killed people. And not just a few people. I count 47 people." at this point I was overcome with an extrodinarily inappropriate urge to laugh - I mean who says stuff like this????? what ever happened to 'hi, nice to meet you?'

I start twisting my face in an effort to make the massive smile spreading across my cheeks look like benign interest. He clarifies : "and not from a distance. we are talking up close and personal. Saw their eyes right before I pulled the trigger. That's right." (Now my eyebrows are slanting sideways as I try to squeeze every feature of my face together in an effort to really really not laugh. My eyes start to water. Meanwhile Michael, dead face serious, is nodding his head 'yeah, yeah'. The ex-navy seal concludes with this line: 'But those bastards deserved it - Terrorist sonsofbitches, Baby-killers. We couldn't let them get away with that.' Then he informs us that he's down to his last dollar (four dollars to my name) as his disability pay doesn't come in until the first and he had unexpected bike repairs. I excuse myself.

Later his friend, a 60 year ish man come by to chat - as he's been doing this cycle trip for something like three years I ask him if he sees many solo women cyclists (being that I have met none on this trip, and no one I have talked to have either). Oh yes, he says, and starts in on this tale of this German woman who took sponge baths in her open tent, and then chased him down to put sunscreen on her back. I'm sure he meant this to be a reassuring tale, but all I could think was great - the first other women solo cyclist i've heard about- and she's an absolute nutter. Not very reassuring. Oh and this guys opinion on skunks? 'Not that bad. Been sprayed a couple of times. Don't really see what the fuss was about.' a statement which beggers belief.

Anyway, plan to spend a few days in the relative sanity of LA - hanging out with Nicole, checking out the Getty Center, then cycling down to San Diego to stay with Michael and his wife, from where i will complete the ride to Mexico and then take off on the next leg! For now though, I'm happy to be not riding my bike (sorry bike, but we've done a lot of cycling since San Fran) and sleeping indoors for a bit :)


Map from San Fran to LA

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30 m north of LA. South CA a bit of a dive compared 2 rest of coast. Looking 4ward to LA.

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Yesterday cycled 70 miles in about 4.5 hours to end up in San Simeon, which was a bit of an effort. Plus a never ending hill. Seriously, I'm still slighlty surprised it has ended. Just turn and after turn, up and up. The reason for the rush? to get to Hearst Castle to see it. As much as gawking at the unreasonable expenditure of money does not usually appeal to me, I really felt that as i was cycling past it, I should see it. It was like what I'd imagine a really expensive Euro-Disney magic castle would look like. The pools were AMAZING. The tour was a bit pro-Hearst for me.


The coast yesterday? Monstrous!! Just gorgeous, never ending cliffs, ocean, blue skies, and climbs. Also never ending climbs.

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Big Sur. 2day was awesome. 1 of top 3 bike days. Joe, u r an idiot! Love Sarah.

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monterey. 40 miles but WINDY. Aquarium good, campgrnd weird. Still w Michael.

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Brighton beach state prk. 56 m. 9 hrs. V close 2 tears whn spnt 2 hrs chnging tube. 2 hrs! Horrible. Then got lost. Also horrible.

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Heading off again today. Muchos gracias to Rosemary, Mike and Erin for letting me crash at their respective places. Despite the wonderful hospitality I am looking forward to being back on my bike alot. A bizarre amount, actually. Today a short trip to Half Moon Bay State Park, and then back into it proper tomorrow. Joe actually did leave and head back to Spokane, but might join me again when I do Nothern B.C.

Day before yesterday I'm wandering through SFMOMA (love it!) and who taps me on the shoulder but Alfred. He doesn't look at all surprised to see me.

"San Francisco - it's not so big. I expected to run into you today."

Which, its a bit bigger than that!

british touring techniques

please observe Michael cycling the lost coast climbs. Joe is the camera person.
I recommend you turn up the volume

palo alto -75 miles of riding today.
We didn't hit the golden gate bridge until about five, i think, (we started as 8:30) but it was a perfect time. When you cycle from Victoria BC, you really appreciate the moment of arrival. HUGE wind gusts (was worried about losing my tent) and Joe turned a corner and got blown into the railing - as he was only going 2 mph at the time it was just really funny. Then into San Francisco, where I caught the Cal Train to Palo Alto to visit Rosemary. I will try to update more later - the Northern California coast since the 'Lost Coast' has been beautiful in a very different way than the Oregon Coast. However, it has been utterly lacking in cell phone service - hence the lack of updating. HOPEFULLY the cell service will be back as I continue South. First however, I plan to spend a couple of days here organizing gear, cleaning clothes (and me!) and generally taking a bit of a luxurious break from my cycling travels. Tomorrow- Starbucks!

Fort Bragg, CA

We (I'm back with Joe and Michael) survived the lost coast!!!!!
The hills were so ridiculous steep that Joe and Michael actually fell off their bikes with laughter when they saw one of the climbs. I was a head of them, and all I could hear were these shrieks - they sounded like they were being tortured.

Joe: I don't think we're cut out for this.
Michael: No, we're not.

Seriously, the steepest I've ever climbed I think - never have I been in so much pain on my bike after a deadly false summit. I thought we were done the climb, put back on all my layers, took a break, only to discover that we were barely half way. Brutal. But at the same time we got magnificent views, and some utterly insane descents where I thought Joe was going to come a cropper for sure ('i don't want to wear down my brakes by using them.')

Then we cycled down the Avenue of the Giants. More gigantic redwoods. Unfortunately my cell phone has either had no reception or has had a dead battery (I lost the part of the solar panel that charges the phone). Going light was the way to go. I'm never going to go back. I'm probably carrying about 15 lbs of gear and I love it!!! Even if i am down to the absolute basics in terms of clothing, and well, in terms of everything. One short sleeve cycling jersey, cycling shorts, leg warmers, arm warmers, one long sleeve jersey, rain jacket, one pair of socks. One pair of cycling shoes, one pair of crocs, one pair of normal pants, one merino wool t-shirt. Tent, thermal rest, sleeping bag, Phone and charger, cycling multitools and spare inner tube. Head lamp, sunscreen. Guide book. Journal, one pen, one pencil. One bike lock. Helmet. Glasses. Toothbrush, contacts, nail clipper, toothpaste, contacts, soap.

I think that is everything.

Also, i have been into almost every bike shop between Victoria BC and Fort Bragg, and Arcata's and Eureka's were both awesome. I'm predicting that my bike problems will lessen now that I'm carrying way less gear and not dragging Bob around after me.

We are all rather wrecked after all the climbing and need a break - at this rate, who knows when we will get to San Fran. Every hill feels like a mountain.

Also, there are a lot of weird people in Northern California.

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Ferndale CA. Back w joe n michael 4 lost coast 2morrow. Have ditched bob n have snt 20 lbs of gear 2 SanFran. Brng on the climbs!

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so much keeps on happening that I almost wish that I had decided to bring a laptop to update. I say almost because ohmygod! i'm still lugging too much stuff behind me.

Right now: I am updating from a KOA just south of Arcata, north of Eureka. I am waiting to see if two other cyclists who I am expecting will show up so we can split camping costs.

Yesteday: Amazing cycle through the California redwoods. I can't imagine a better way to see the trees then by bike. I felt sorry for all the motorists zooming by. The scenic routes!! I almost biked myself off the road twice with all the rubber-necking at the trees. Two significant climbs yesterday - over 1000 feet each i think, but was ok, because the gradient wasn't bad and the weather was nice and cool with a strong tail wind (for once!)

Also yesterday: Joe, Michael and I split up to continue our own trips. In case they read this: THANK YOU GUYS FOR AN AWESOME TRIP DOWN THE OREGON COAST. Alfred, thank you too for delicious steak, guitar playing, and for showing us how to bike tour with some european style. It was sad to see such a good thing come to an end, but I barely had a chance to shed a tear as I left them in the campground when some dude also touring appeared on my wheel wanting to chat. For the love of god! what does one have to do to cycle in some peace? I dropped him in like two block and never saw him again. It was never going to work.

Also today: visited my FIFTH bike shop of the trip. So far I've had repairs, tune ups, cleats replaced on my shoes, my rear casette replaced and today the guy fixed the wobbling in my rear wheel that had appeared yesterday (was driving me crazy), and informed me whoever built my wheel did it a cm wrong. All is apparently all fixed and I should have no more problems. We will see.

Also today: Got more information about the Lost Coast Century i want to do. Apparently it is full of epic climbs and can be done in two days with gear or one without - as there is no way I am dragging Bob up 20-25% gradient climbs I'm going to leave Bob behind and do it in a day. Based on weather reports I'm going to go on Saturday, taking friday as a rest day. The bike store guy (the last one) was very enthusiastic about my plan which makes me feel better about it.

Also today: STEEP climb up to Lady Bird Johnson Grove. I don't know why I'm mentioning it here cause I know I am never going to forget it. To all future cyclists, it was most definitly not worth it, AND because I had misread my guide book I only had my cycling shoes and so chewed up my new pair of cleats (bike store four) on the gravel of the 1 mile hike. But after all the suffering I was going to get every peice of information and vista out of that stop that I could.

Tomorrow continuing down the 101 to Marine Garden Club Grove in Hunboldt Redwoods State Park where I'm going to camp the night, and spend the next day before starting my tour.

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60 m. Harris beach 5 m north of CA. OR coast - fantastic. Xtrmly good weather. Hills getting bigger each day!

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i am updating from alfreds laptop in brandon, or. alfred is a cycling dentist with a beautiful bike and spanish guitar. in another mile or so we will see large sea stacks with beach acess to walk among these giant monoliths. right now a mist has rolled in and we are waiting for it to clear while enjoying fish and chips.

on our day off yesterday we did lots of hiking along rocky capes. amazing views in the sun . so much keeps on happening that it will have to wait until i can properly update. still travvelling wit michael and joe.

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Day off in sunset bay state park! hot hot hot! Keeps getting better!

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D12- sml distance. Ez day. Added gear 2 bike in anticipation of climbs looming ahead in CA. weather? gorgeours. Views? epic.

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D11 60 m. No reception @ camp. Buying food in florence OR. SUNNY! Joe MIchael and I are mini peleton.

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D10-35 m. motel 6 w michael n joe after a day of rain n sick hills. Heaven 2 b dry!

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D9- 50m big hills. Cape lookout state park @ OR. Michael joined bike posse. Lost joe. Heard B Clinton spk in tillamook. Found Joe.

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D8- 30m big hills. Nehalem bay state park @ OR. Got v wet. Coast v nice.

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I'm in the town of Seaside, OR, just below the Washington border. Joe (who I met in a cafe eating brunch) and I are hiding out from the rain. Yes rain. After really quite fortunate weather, and an 85 m marathon bike ride yesterday beside a wildlife sanctuary, we woke up to pouring rain this morning. We had opted for an easy day, and in fact couldn't motivate ourselves out of our respective 'tents' (he has a tarp! shoulda brought a real tent!) until ten in the morning. Then we began our leisurely cycle. Leisurely my ass. HEAD winds blowing south to north the entire time. Thick fog. The miles just crawled by. Except for the 200 meters through a tunnel where my life flashed before my eyes. Ugh I hate tunnels. Then it was the astoria bridge. Which as I finally finished, a shattered mess, Joe cycles up behind me equally shell shocked and goes 'why is there a mountain in the middle of a bridge?'

How the bridge works is after a mile and a half of cycling on this bridge, when you think - maybe you are almost done - you look a head and see looming out of the midst, a wall of cement. You think - what could that possibly be? It couldn't possibly be the bridge. But it is! In the middle of the bridge is a HALF MILE GRANNY GEAR CLIMB. Joe told me "i looked over the side, saw the water, and thought: I could just end it right now."

Finally we roll into Astoria, and immediately have to cross another bridge - the shoulders are of course a complete mess - hub cabs, giant rocks, garbage. Winds even stronger. We are going even slower. And then another 17 miles of cycling to get to Seaside where I promise Joe beer if we can only stay in the hostel (it is still pouring rain horizontally in our faces) . I win! we are in the hostel about to go get some beer. If the weather is like this tomorrow we've mutually agreed to take a real rest day (no way does today count, plus you can't see anything of Oregan's supposedly gorgeous coast, so what's the point?)

Food:
I am fueling this bike trip off of cliff bars and truck stops. After my last update, I was heading out of previous hostel in Port Townsend. The 'all you can eat breakfast' consisted of english muffins and some orange slices. Feeling pretty good. But not for long. It was cold, and after twenty miles I didn't see how I was possibly going to do another 40 that day. Plus a large climb. No way. I had given myself three increasingly desperate pep talks by the time I pull into Quilcene, WA. I longed for a starbucks. No luck. The closest is the "Logger's Diner' complete with Neon 'cafe' sign. The waitress calls me 'hon' and there is a cup of coffee on the table before I even sit down. There are about half dozen other people there, some locals, some passing through. I order scrambled eggs, hashbrowns and toast for 5.99. Now I don't know if it was the hash-browns or the three cups of coffee, or the chorus of 'good lucks' and the one 'go get em' - but when I left there wasn't a problem in the world I couldn't have solved. Hopped on my bike, and spun up Mt Walker without turning a hair. I am a convert. You can not fuel a days worth of cycling off pieces of bread and some jam. You need truck stop foods. For diner Oat Bran. All the rest of the time? Cliff Bars.

Joe: I met Joe yesterday at the diner brunch stop . He's just finished his undergrad and has until early June for this trip. I convinced him to join me for the last 50 miles and we bike pretty well together - he's on a refurbished beater bike but keeps up pretty well :)

ok ... I think its beer time!

Trip so far ...


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D6-85 m. @ ilwaco. Xcllt biking. Met joe. We r camping as he loses war w coon. Tmrrw short and ez 2 OR.

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Camping at twin harbor state park in middle of family reunion. Last night was at potlatch
State park.

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D5-75 m. Wind. 8 hrs on bike into wind/rain. May still be biking. Can't tell. Whr is my fitness?

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Day4-1 flat. Am camping w 2 other cyclists! Exciting!

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Day3-50 m 2 pt townsend hostel. Excited 4 bed! Going 2 bed now. 67 m 2mrrw.

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Have few scant minutes as being charged arm and leg for internet access at Orcas Island Cafe while waiting for ferry. Not all is terrible. They also have a real cafe. yummmm chai latte.

The islands have been really nice for me - I got lucky with the weather, and the cycling (my fitness issues aside!) is nice. Rolling hills and sceneic shots of the sound. Yesterday it took me an hour to pack up camp, this morning 45 minutes - I think things are going to slowly work themselves out.

Even Bob and I are starting to get along (better) (although I need to get rid of more stuff!!!!) and we had our first crash as I was trying to walk my bike out of my camp site which required going down a slippery hill in my bike shoes. Basically - i didn't have enough traction, it was really steep, the bike took off with bob and me with it. But nothing hurt or harmed.

I will need to get a US phone if I'm going to keep texting/updating, as apparently its only free for me to receive texts. So if you don't hear for me as frequently for the next bit, that's why. Oh and on a related note, cell phones are a consumers nightmare. I kept on telling the Roger's representative 'I swear I'm not an idiot but I just don't understand what you are saying - i have the unlimited international text plan and I'm still being charged $2 for each text out of the US?
Him: "maybe. It's not exactly clear."

Also. got delayed a bit at the border crossing onto the San Juan island when I irritated the border guard by not having a plan.

Him: If you don't have a plan, how do I know your plan isn't to come into the States get a job?
me: But I just finished my job!

Once he found out I was a lawyer he relaxed. If there is one profession that has a hard time working illegally, Lawyers would be it.

Ok off to enjoy my scone!!!!!!!