Saturday, May 31, 2008
We didn't hit the golden gate bridge until about five, i think, (we started as 8:30) but it was a perfect time. When you cycle from Victoria BC, you really appreciate the moment of arrival. HUGE wind gusts (was worried about losing my tent) and Joe turned a corner and got blown into the railing - as he was only going 2 mph at the time it was just really funny. Then into San Francisco, where I caught the Cal Train to Palo Alto to visit Rosemary. I will try to update more later - the Northern California coast since the 'Lost Coast' has been beautiful in a very different way than the Oregon Coast. However, it has been utterly lacking in cell phone service - hence the lack of updating. HOPEFULLY the cell service will be back as I continue South. First however, I plan to spend a couple of days here organizing gear, cleaning clothes (and me!) and generally taking a bit of a luxurious break from my cycling travels. Tomorrow- Starbucks!
Tuesday, May 27, 2008
Fort Bragg, CA
The hills were so ridiculous steep that Joe and Michael actually fell off their bikes with laughter when they saw one of the climbs. I was a head of them, and all I could hear were these shrieks - they sounded like they were being tortured.
Joe: I don't think we're cut out for this.
Michael: No, we're not.
Seriously, the steepest I've ever climbed I think - never have I been in so much pain on my bike after a deadly false summit. I thought we were done the climb, put back on all my layers, took a break, only to discover that we were barely half way. Brutal. But at the same time we got magnificent views, and some utterly insane descents where I thought Joe was going to come a cropper for sure ('i don't want to wear down my brakes by using them.')
Then we cycled down the Avenue of the Giants. More gigantic redwoods. Unfortunately my cell phone has either had no reception or has had a dead battery (I lost the part of the solar panel that charges the phone). Going light was the way to go. I'm never going to go back. I'm probably carrying about 15 lbs of gear and I love it!!! Even if i am down to the absolute basics in terms of clothing, and well, in terms of everything. One short sleeve cycling jersey, cycling shorts, leg warmers, arm warmers, one long sleeve jersey, rain jacket, one pair of socks. One pair of cycling shoes, one pair of crocs, one pair of normal pants, one merino wool t-shirt. Tent, thermal rest, sleeping bag, Phone and charger, cycling multitools and spare inner tube. Head lamp, sunscreen. Guide book. Journal, one pen, one pencil. One bike lock. Helmet. Glasses. Toothbrush, contacts, nail clipper, toothpaste, contacts, soap.
I think that is everything.
Also, i have been into almost every bike shop between Victoria BC and Fort Bragg, and Arcata's and Eureka's were both awesome. I'm predicting that my bike problems will lessen now that I'm carrying way less gear and not dragging Bob around after me.
We are all rather wrecked after all the climbing and need a break - at this rate, who knows when we will get to San Fran. Every hill feels like a mountain.
Also, there are a lot of weird people in Northern California.
Thursday, May 22, 2008
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Wednesday, May 21, 2008
Right now: I am updating from a KOA just south of Arcata, north of Eureka. I am waiting to see if two other cyclists who I am expecting will show up so we can split camping costs.
Yesteday: Amazing cycle through the California redwoods. I can't imagine a better way to see the trees then by bike. I felt sorry for all the motorists zooming by. The scenic routes!! I almost biked myself off the road twice with all the rubber-necking at the trees. Two significant climbs yesterday - over 1000 feet each i think, but was ok, because the gradient wasn't bad and the weather was nice and cool with a strong tail wind (for once!)
Also yesterday: Joe, Michael and I split up to continue our own trips. In case they read this: THANK YOU GUYS FOR AN AWESOME TRIP DOWN THE OREGON COAST. Alfred, thank you too for delicious steak, guitar playing, and for showing us how to bike tour with some european style. It was sad to see such a good thing come to an end, but I barely had a chance to shed a tear as I left them in the campground when some dude also touring appeared on my wheel wanting to chat. For the love of god! what does one have to do to cycle in some peace? I dropped him in like two block and never saw him again. It was never going to work.
Also today: visited my FIFTH bike shop of the trip. So far I've had repairs, tune ups, cleats replaced on my shoes, my rear casette replaced and today the guy fixed the wobbling in my rear wheel that had appeared yesterday (was driving me crazy), and informed me whoever built my wheel did it a cm wrong. All is apparently all fixed and I should have no more problems. We will see.
Also today: Got more information about the Lost Coast Century i want to do. Apparently it is full of epic climbs and can be done in two days with gear or one without - as there is no way I am dragging Bob up 20-25% gradient climbs I'm going to leave Bob behind and do it in a day. Based on weather reports I'm going to go on Saturday, taking friday as a rest day. The bike store guy (the last one) was very enthusiastic about my plan which makes me feel better about it.
Also today: STEEP climb up to Lady Bird Johnson Grove. I don't know why I'm mentioning it here cause I know I am never going to forget it. To all future cyclists, it was most definitly not worth it, AND because I had misread my guide book I only had my cycling shoes and so chewed up my new pair of cleats (bike store four) on the gravel of the 1 mile hike. But after all the suffering I was going to get every peice of information and vista out of that stop that I could.
Tomorrow continuing down the 101 to Marine Garden Club Grove in Hunboldt Redwoods State Park where I'm going to camp the night, and spend the next day before starting my tour.
Monday, May 19, 2008
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Sunday, May 18, 2008
on our day off yesterday we did lots of hiking along rocky capes. amazing views in the sun . so much keeps on happening that it will have to wait until i can properly update. still travvelling wit michael and joe.
Saturday, May 17, 2008
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Thursday, May 15, 2008
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Tuesday, May 13, 2008
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Monday, May 12, 2008
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Sunday, May 11, 2008
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Saturday, May 10, 2008
How the bridge works is after a mile and a half of cycling on this bridge, when you think - maybe you are almost done - you look a head and see looming out of the midst, a wall of cement. You think - what could that possibly be? It couldn't possibly be the bridge. But it is! In the middle of the bridge is a HALF MILE GRANNY GEAR CLIMB. Joe told me "i looked over the side, saw the water, and thought: I could just end it right now."
Finally we roll into Astoria, and immediately have to cross another bridge - the shoulders are of course a complete mess - hub cabs, giant rocks, garbage. Winds even stronger. We are going even slower. And then another 17 miles of cycling to get to Seaside where I promise Joe beer if we can only stay in the hostel (it is still pouring rain horizontally in our faces) . I win! we are in the hostel about to go get some beer. If the weather is like this tomorrow we've mutually agreed to take a real rest day (no way does today count, plus you can't see anything of Oregan's supposedly gorgeous coast, so what's the point?)
Food:
I am fueling this bike trip off of cliff bars and truck stops. After my last update, I was heading out of previous hostel in Port Townsend. The 'all you can eat breakfast' consisted of english muffins and some orange slices. Feeling pretty good. But not for long. It was cold, and after twenty miles I didn't see how I was possibly going to do another 40 that day. Plus a large climb. No way. I had given myself three increasingly desperate pep talks by the time I pull into Quilcene, WA. I longed for a starbucks. No luck. The closest is the "Logger's Diner' complete with Neon 'cafe' sign. The waitress calls me 'hon' and there is a cup of coffee on the table before I even sit down. There are about half dozen other people there, some locals, some passing through. I order scrambled eggs, hashbrowns and toast for 5.99. Now I don't know if it was the hash-browns or the three cups of coffee, or the chorus of 'good lucks' and the one 'go get em' - but when I left there wasn't a problem in the world I couldn't have solved. Hopped on my bike, and spun up Mt Walker without turning a hair. I am a convert. You can not fuel a days worth of cycling off pieces of bread and some jam. You need truck stop foods. For diner Oat Bran. All the rest of the time? Cliff Bars.
Joe: I met Joe yesterday at the diner brunch stop . He's just finished his undergrad and has until early June for this trip. I convinced him to join me for the last 50 miles and we bike pretty well together - he's on a refurbished beater bike but keeps up pretty well :)
ok ... I think its beer time!
Trip so far ...
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Friday, May 9, 2008
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Thursday, May 8, 2008
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State park.
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Wednesday, May 7, 2008
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Tuesday, May 6, 2008
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The islands have been really nice for me - I got lucky with the weather, and the cycling (my fitness issues aside!) is nice. Rolling hills and sceneic shots of the sound. Yesterday it took me an hour to pack up camp, this morning 45 minutes - I think things are going to slowly work themselves out.
Even Bob and I are starting to get along (better) (although I need to get rid of more stuff!!!!) and we had our first crash as I was trying to walk my bike out of my camp site which required going down a slippery hill in my bike shoes. Basically - i didn't have enough traction, it was really steep, the bike took off with bob and me with it. But nothing hurt or harmed.
I will need to get a US phone if I'm going to keep texting/updating, as apparently its only free for me to receive texts. So if you don't hear for me as frequently for the next bit, that's why. Oh and on a related note, cell phones are a consumers nightmare. I kept on telling the Roger's representative 'I swear I'm not an idiot but I just don't understand what you are saying - i have the unlimited international text plan and I'm still being charged $2 for each text out of the US?
Him: "maybe. It's not exactly clear."
Also. got delayed a bit at the border crossing onto the San Juan island when I irritated the border guard by not having a plan.
Him: If you don't have a plan, how do I know your plan isn't to come into the States get a job?
me: But I just finished my job!
Once he found out I was a lawyer he relaxed. If there is one profession that has a hard time working illegally, Lawyers would be it.
Ok off to enjoy my scone!!!!!!!
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Monday, May 5, 2008
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Sunday, May 4, 2008
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BEAUTIFUL. Tired and hungry!
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11:00 am- Ferry!
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9:30 am- lost.
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Saturday, May 3, 2008
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Friday, May 2, 2008
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The first inkling that something was wrong was when I asked the bus driver to let me off right before Victoria so that I'd be closer to the ferry terminal I needed to catch the 11:45 am ferry to San Juan island.
He said : Fine
I said: and my bike too -its in freight.
He said: there is no freight on this bus.
I said: Well I'm not sure how its classified. Maybe its baggage?
He said: There isn't a bike on this bus.
I said: Its in a box.
He said: There isn't a bike on this bus.
I give up, thinking that we're using different terminology and it will all be clear once we reach Victoria - and I should still have enough time to catch my ferry.
So on we go to Victoria where I discover that there is in fact, no bike on the bus (nor BOB - whose 'boxing' was its own little comedic sideshow in Golden involving two differently sized boxes, a lot of shrink wrap to bridge the gap between the boxes, and two teenage boys)
In the bus station I go to the counter and I explain that I'm MISSING MY BIKE which is the KEY COMPONENT to why I'm here in the first place. They give me a number to call. I call it, I give them my waybill number and they tell me the number doesn't exist. Its 10 digits and they only issue 11 digit waybills and am I sure I'm reading it correctly. I'M SURE, I tell them, that I'm only counting ten numbers, and not eleven, and yes, I'm counting zero as it too is a number. They find this all very confusing and give me another number to call and to ask for Cheryl. So I call. Cheryl is on another call and so I'm on hold. I sit on hold for about 10 minutes before someone asks me if I want to leave a message. I do NOT want to leave a message, I want to know where my bike is. Unfortunately Cheryl is still on the call and has a conference call coming up.
I ask: is there anyone else in all of greyhound who can help me find my lost baggage? Nope. Only Cheryl can. Fine, I say. I'll hold. What else can I do? I'm on a bike trip WITHOUT THE BIKE.
Back on hold. MEANWHILE a women walks out from behind the 'employees' only counter in the bus station, looks at me and asks: 'are you holding for Cheryl?' I answer yes, before registering how weird of a question that is from someone you are not on the phone with. Next time I see her I ask - Is Cheryl here? behind the counter? Oh no, she tells me, she's upstairs. Well do I have to be on hold then? Can't I just wait in front of her office or something?
She takes pity on me and sends Cheryl's secretary down. The secretary explains that she thinks that it may have just missed being transferred in Vancouver (despite the fact that I asked about it in Vancouver) and that with any luck it will be on the next bus from Vancouver arriving at 11:20. I ask the secretary if there is anyway - by taxi, whatever, anyway that I could still catch the 11:45 ferry. Oh no, she's says, that's impossible.
I must have looked pretty devastated because she pats my leg and goes 'oh so disappointing for you, I know.' Which made me rally a bit, because as much as I wanted to start my trip today and you know, START CYCLING, I also like to think I can handle greater disappointments than this with grace and aplomb. Although I have noticed that being awake for 36 hours straight does not tend to increase my maturity and/or coping skills.
Regardless, my bike is not on the 11:20 either. Now I get to talk to Cheryl.
She explains: Cargo (which my bike and Bob HAVE to be classified as) are dealt with differently then passengers or baggage. They are routed differently, with different priorities. Also cargo isn't always dropped off at the passenger depot but rather at a cargo depot 30 or so blocks away - it depends. So in other words, not only does Greyhound not guarantee your cargo will arrive at the same time as you, it doesn't even guarantee that it will arrive at the same destination as you. I point out that is very problematic for cyclists who depend on their bike for their transportation. She agrees, and that she doesn't recommend taking bicycles on the bus. GREAT.
She'll call me/email me when my bike and Bob show up. So far nothing.
Meanwhile, realizing that I'm going to spend a night in Victoria waiting for my bike, I find the nearest HI hostel, map it on my phone, and step out of the bus hostel asking the first person I meet which way is north so I can orientate myself. I ask a mature German lady who I will call 'Klara'. Not only does Klara tell me which way is north, she escorts me to the hostel and helps me carry my bag (all 38 lbs of it*).
During our ten minute walk (with frequent breaks to put the bag down) she tells me stories of her travel adventures in a caravan years ago. How they slept in ditches (no tents), and carried around shower heads with sink attachments so in restaurants they would take turns dashing off to the bathrooms to have a quick shower. "Traveling doesn't have to be expensive if you're thrifty. Showers in hotels? Bah. Just keep your eye out for a nice looking lake, grab your soap and go!'. She also used to do canoe trips - transporting her 16 foot canoe on her VW bug 'it looked a bit ridiculous', and agreed that traveling solo was better than traveling with the wrong travel partner.
Anyway. Now I'm in Victoria doing tourist stuff waiting for my bike. I actually ended up having a pretty good day. Klara helped cheer me up immensely - and then after an hour 'break time' ie. nap I headed out to the BC Museum - which was awesome. Spent three hours there and loved every minute. Had all sorts of thoughts which I won't bore you with but entertained me and fell in love with Charlie Chaplin. Those films are genius. So clever and silly at the same time - I can't express how brilliant I thought they were. Totally inspired. Those silent films are so close to animation its almost uncanny. I could have watched them for HOURS. Also found a new artist who's work I really liked. Carol Christianson. I'd link to her but she doesn't seem to have a presence on the internet that I could find in the 30 seconds I spent looking for her.
Now off to bed early and hope my bike and bob shows up. I'm actually rather worried about whether Bob's boxing job is going to hold up for an extend trip. It was pretty MacGyvred.
Good night!
* 38 lbs??? how did that happen? Clearly, somewhere, some how I've committed a massive packing faux pas. Am going through it again tonight. Although the 1 kg of Oat Bran I packed might not be helping.
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Thursday, May 1, 2008
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