ZION!!!

I love zion!!! I really do. Arrived at about 5 pm yesterday (80-odd mile day). Asked a swiss couple if they would mind if I shared their campsite (I offered to pay them but they refused). This is the best way to do campground camping I've found. I've done it three times, have yet to have to pay (although I always offer). Plus you get to meet interesting people. Just bike around the campground (I'm actually looking for other cyclists, but haven't found any yet) and then when you see some friendly looking people, just ask.

Anyway, my tent is still broken - the superglue was useless. My tent is current 'propped upright' thanks to the efforts of the South African couple next to us (and with a lot of rope, pegs, and a few rocks). My new tent is on the way from MEC, but they have no idea when it will arrive. As such I'm going to be hanging out here for the next bit.

Hiked this morning up a river, through ever-narrowing canyon walls. It was amazing. I will have no problem spending a few extra days here waiting for my tent. This place is on my top 5 list of amazing places - particularly the east section of the park that I biked through to get here. After an 8 mile climb, it was 20 miles downhill through these incredibly twisted rock formations. I have to do it again (and apparently I'll have the time) then one tunnel, and then the next.

The tunnels. I HATE tunnels. However, the second tunnel which is 1.1 miles long forbids cyclists - this is awesome cause it means that instead of having to ALMOST DIE cycling through it, the rangers standing there arrange transportation for you. Basically they flag down pick up trucks and you jump in the back with your bike. Then you get an awesome view of the tunnel and the 'windows' that have been carved out. I just wish my guy had driven slower.

ETA: Zion (Springdale) has a library!!!!!!! I am now officially totally set.

ETA: have figured out Leg Three of Tour de Sarah and have ordered maps (since I'm waiting for my tent might as well wait for my maps). I'm going to find alternate transportation from Cedar City, Utah, to Pueblo, CO and then start biking the 'Great Parks North Route' which will end me up right in Jasper!!

Left North Rim, Grand Canyon, yesterday afternoon around three. Did 30 odd miles before (Joe and Michael be proud) ditch/wild camping. Everyone said it was a totally safe area to do it in, and the campground was closed anyway. HOWEVER - guess what happens? My tent breaks!!!!! BREAKS!!!! So, not only did I ditch camp I did it without the benefit of a functioning tent. (I crawled into the collasped netting with my thermal rest and sleeping bag. But I lasted the nighht even if I only slept three and a half hours. EVEN though I knew it was totally safe, I just have the worse time keeping my imagination under control. When we were kids, our dad used to encourage us to go to sleep by telling us that if we were awake at midnight the witches would get us (not exactly a relaxing bedtime thought). To this day I have problems with midnight.

However I did it. Packed up at first light, on the road by 5:30. Get to Kanab around 8:30 (after a 30 mile descent) where I buy superglue and hope that I've fixed my tent. Then off again. Now I'm at Mt. Carmel Junction, 15 miles from the East Gate of Zion Park, 25 miles from the visitor centre. Kanab to Mt. Carmel juction was 16 miles, 1000 feet of climbing in 95 degree weather, but I handled it ok. (I can't believe I once thought 500 feet was a big climb. Oh Washington!)

I'm probably going to hang out here until it cools a bit, then do the 25 miles to Zion. Have to figure out how to get to Bryce too. They aren't in the same direction apparently. Bryce is out of the way for me.

Bye!!

Still at North Rim

The North Rim is great, better than the South. The hiker/biker section is the best part of the campground. I'm basically looking over the rim from my tent.

Also, there are lots of trails and hikes to do. Although I've pretty much only been doing the senior citizen ones - I'm just too tired. I've learned about Condors and met 74 year old Liz from Virginia who told me how 2 years ago she broke her leg in 2 places on the AT and had to walk three miles out to the road.

Update when I can.

North Rim - Grand Canyon

- Turns out Dru was crazy. Not scary-crazy, but definitely extremely irritating-crazy. She's a 54 year old woman, who through no small effort looks about 45. She never stopped talking. She tried to Bogart my trip and took me on a tour of Wallmart ("There is this most amazing store that you just have to see to believe"). Lake Powell was NOT the prettiest lake and I am glad to be out of Page. She was one of those Americans who thinks Canadians are from another planet. Happy to have ditched her.

- Yesterday biked 70 miles from Page to just outside Grand Canyon North Rim. Unbelievably hot again. Shared campsite with two Dutch couples one of who was a cheese engineer (only in Holland). They shared their campsite, their beer and their fire. Also, Joe - I've met the girl for you. She doesn't even camp with a tarp! (She's a rafting guide in the Grand Canyon, she will be at a rainbow gathering in Serbia in August, her name is Cleo and she is awesome).

- This morning only biked 25 miles to the Rim, but am utterly exhausted. No energy for anything. Good news is beyond all liklihood the North Rim campsite has a hiker/biker! Of course I am the only biker here. Will probably spend a few days recovering here from hellish week in the desert. It is gorgeous here, cool with trees and wind. A lot like Canada. I miss Canada.

- Will be in Cedar City in about a week, need to decide what to do next. Am definitely taking first public transport out of here to somewhere cooler. It is too hot to bike.

- Phone's still broken.

things just keep on happening and happening so quickly!

1)As I was biking from Williams to Flagstaff this morning (5:30 am - 8:00 am -32 miles) I passed that Arizona divide sign which said 7335 feet elevation. Then it occurred to me that some of my problems right now (not feeling well, mostly) might have something to do with altitude. I just spent 6 weeks on the coast, and then in the span of 2-3 days cycled myself up to 7000 feet in very grueling heat. As such I am determined to take a few days off

2) In the EXCELLENT NEWS! catagory - my roommate last night is driving pretty close to where I'm trying to get to (northern end of the grand canyon. She's also convinced me that I have to see Lake Powell. So I'm off to spend at least a day or two near a lake, and hopefully will start to feel a bit better. Her name is Drew. I think I'd like her very much even if she hadn't totally bailed me out. (There is no public transportation that accepts bikes up that way). Plus she's an ex-lawyer too!

3) Will try to sort my cell phone out in Lake Powell (as in, buy a new one)

So yes, not feeling 100% (haven't been for a few days) but am pretty confident I know why and that its fixable with a bit of rest. My bike is also being fixed as I type, and I get to go by car over the worse part of the grand canyon. Made a new friend. And apparently am off to see the 'prettiest lake in the world'.

minus some sort of miracle the phone is dead. So will be less updates. On the plus side, can stop getting charged so much by Rogers.

In cycling news. I found the one road cyclist in town who

1) fixed my bike as well as he could
2) told me to cycle to Flagstaff to have a bike store do the rest.
3) told me it was not a good idea (as in, a bad idea) to cycle from here up to the North Rim, and that I should arrange other transportation to Zion National Park. I believe him. I believe the words he used was 'barren land, absolutely nothing, winds, dust being thrown at you, just a disaster of a ride'. Also, there is 140 mile section through a reservation with no camping, and he took a very dim view of me just 'camping somewhere'.

So changes will be made. I mean, I just want to cycle!!!!! I want somewhere safe and somewhat fun to cycle. Maybe I should head back up to Canada after Zion National Park? Or maybe its time for plan B and I should head south to a surf town and spend my last month surfing - I've lasted way longer than 2 weeks at this cycle touring thing. Or learning something new. I need to do some serious thinking.

ETA: For tonight, after spending 2 hours in the visitor information centre while Brad the town cyclist was located, i learned that one of the local hotels keeps one or two rooms as hostel rooms. I got one! I've had a shower, a nap, and feel much better, although still no where near 100%.

ok. things just got worse.
My water bottle spilled all over my phone (and then my phone sat in the water for 30 mins), and now I think my phone is wrecked.

ohmygod i don't even know where to begin. The fact that yesterday's bicycle ride ended 14 hours after I started, that I cycled almost 100 miles in ridiculous heat (and paid for it). That I had to push my bike up the last 200 meters? This place is so hard to ride in.

Then this morning, off early, am 5 miles from my destination when my rear tire disintegrates. Just poof. This is the kevlar reinforced tire that I bought in Oregan. Its been worn *through* the threads, leaving a hole I can push three fingers through. The tire is shot.

I'm not carrying an extra tire. I know next bike store is in Williams, so i stick my hand out and the first car (a 1970 something vw bus/camper van) stops. Its a family of four- Phil and Laura, and their two sons. They make space for me, and throw my bike up on the roof. I was thinkng that if I was Michael I could be making small chat about Phil's cool vehicle (wonderfully well maintained) but as I am not, I couldn't. He kept on telling me details about the engines, or the doors, and I went 'ohh' and 'ahh' as convicingly as I could.

Get to Willams (after, as navigator, I put them on the wrong road) only to find out that the bike store has closed. Great. Next nearest bike store is Flagstaff. So now I'm off to figure out how to get myself and my bicycle from here to Flagstaff.

Have I mentioned how hot it is? Killer.

Of course another potential plan is to take the grand canyon train from Williams (what its famous for). See the grand canyon that way. then get to Flagstaff and reevaluate where exactly I want to be cycling right now. THIS IS JUST SO TOUGH.

In two days I've *needed* rides twice, lost a tire, broke a spoke, almost had heat stroke, had to take breaks climbing a hill, and had to push my bike.

IT IS JUST SO TOUGH.

Rogers Wireless Message

day turned around magnificantly thxs 2 Pat and his van. Savd me 25 m of HELL. am now resting half way up last climb b4 Prescott.

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I'm not going to lie. Today has not been an easy day. And its only 11:00. Maybe I need a diner?

Left the Phoenix Hostel a bit past five am (could have left earlier). Cycled the 60 odd miles here (Wickenburg). This was going to be my destination because the temperatures are so hot - i thought, 60 miles the first day in this heat - that's more than enough. Turns out that the camping here is RV only. So instead I'm going to take a break here until two or three (hang out in the library) then push on to the next labelled campground - Yarnell - another 30 miles but with 2000 feet elevation gain. I am however, not hopeful that it will accept tents either as it is called Oak Park Motel and RV Park. But there isn't any point in staying here.

Also, I got a flat. So now I'm worried about being down to one spare (Bike store tomorrow).

Also, I just found out that the library closes at noon (this is the kind of day its being). So I'm going to need to find some other a/c building to chill in for a few hours.

I don't know. Its just a tough day. Tomorrow will be better.


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Rogers Wireless Message

Phoenix,AZ -hostel. Renting car 2 get here was good idea. hot. 2morrw nxt leg begins! i predict it will also b hot. :)

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Still in San Diego

Today we got to Mexico!!!!! Or the border. The day got off to a slow start as I watched youtube conspiracy theorists on the topic of the American government being competent only in so far as it is corrupt (I am not a tough sell on this one, for pretty much any govt - thank you law profession). While this could be seen as added motivation to get to Mexico, in reality it only meant that we didn't leave until almost 11:00 am. Both of us under the impression that it would be a 35-ish m ride. Should take us two hours.

We got back at 8:00 pm (9 hrs!!!). Turns out it was more like 55 miles, setting our average speed at a blistering 6 mph. We dallied through pedestrian packed bike paths ('don't these people have jobs!')  stopped to watch surfing (we actually watched surfers watching waves, but so it goes). Stopped for an hour long lunch at the best rib place ever (Phil's??). Then sat on a ferry, where upon disembarking, we got real ice cream.  Which we sat around and ate. 

Its past four at this point and we decide we should just get to the border, which should be right around the corner. IT WAS NOT. First there was a (practically) endless bike path for 10 miles. Then we took this right turn, and suddenly, instead of cars, buses, and general urban sprawl of the last 100 miles or so, there was a cowboy cantering down the road on his horse. (while it took a while, we did eventually pass him). There were sprawling ranches, grassy fields, horses everywhere.   Not what I was expecting from the mexican border based on Babel.  It was great! A few more miles later and we were back, surrounded by cement. Got close enough to practically cross the border. Then caught the train back to Michael's place.

You know. I love my bike. But sometimes, I can love a train too.

Rogers Wireless Message

90 odd m 2 san diego 2day. Felt pretty long. I am only homeless person in Michael and Lindsay's apartment. yey!

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Leaving LA

Off tomorrow. Its been an excellent visit. Haven't done much since the Getty Center except watch golf. Which I don't play and don't really even like. But I started watching it Saturday. Got sucked in for Sunday, and of course had to watch Monday!

Besides, most of LA sight-seeing seems to be composed of seeing stuff I've already seen on tv. So clearly my time was better spent learning intricate details of what might be wrong with Tiger's knee.

the other benefit of this stressful tv watching regime is that I feel revitalized and excited about getting back on my bike tomorrow.

LA

Made it to LA! I'm current staying at a friends' apartment on the border of Hollywood and West Hollywood. She described it as a 'hole'. I describe it as a miraculous palace with easy water access, with room to sleep both on a sofa and the floor! Oh and a massive 30 odd foot ceiling. I met Nicole in law school on exchange in Australia, although she's not exactly a lawyer.

Me: And then I want to take you out to dinner as thanks for letting me stay here, I really appreciate it.
Nicole: No need!
Me: Seriously, I really appreciate it, its the least I could do.
Nicole: I just won $7,000 in a poker tournement. I'm taking you out.
Me: Okay!

The last few days into LA have been a bit of a blur. We (was still with Michael) did an excellent detour into the Valley - into Buelton - met Beth and Tim - had way too much famous Anderson Pea Soup. Which wasn't all that exceptional, and insisted in sloshing around in my stomach for the next 15 miles through the heat.

That night we stayed in a campground designed for a couple of thousand campers, but it was basically just us. Which you would think would be peaceful and relaxing but it was not. Every animal who lives off those thousands of campers decided to come investigate us. As a result, at least two skunks (Michael's reaction when they showed up was to promptly question me on skunks and their behaviour. Like I have some degree in skunkology - avoid them, was my advice.), probably somewhere near half a dozen racoons, and dozens of these chipmunk/prairie dogs came to visit. Within five minutes of sunset three creatures had triangulated themselves around our position, their eyes glowing eerily at me as I tried to plan out my escape to the bathroom - not being able to determine skunk or racoon in the darkness made it even more treacherous. I want to scare racoons, but not skunks! That night, you could hear their feet scurriring around your head from inside your tent. I really missed joe and his tarp - they would have loved investigating him! I'm sure if Joe was there I would have slept soundly and in the moring have been greeted by a hollow-eyed Joe rendering epic battle tales of the creatures he faced off with in the night.

The next day was a treat of a climb. 2225 feet of hellish heat pounding away on my bike and back for four and a half miles. To badly paraphrase Tolstoy - every descent is enjoyable for the same reasons, every climb is horrible in its own unique way. The unique moment of hell on this climb was when the sweat on my face felt like it was being boiled off by the sun. I thought: This is new.

Down into Santa Barbara, which I wasn't overly impressed with. But then again, I'm not in a cityscape frame of mind. Out along the beaches until we hit the campground. The problem with camping near cities is that the hiker-biker spots are an attractive option for vagrants. For three to five dollars a night, anyone can stay. Don't even need a tent. We first encountered homeless in Monterey. None of them we have met so far seem dangerous, but many have been distinctly weird. We have also met a fair share of weird non-homeless people. Michael's british accent* seems to attract them - plus I have observed that his technique of ending a conversation with people by asking them more questions - is a failure.

[*A good number of people, upon hearing his accent, ask if he's canadian - which never fails to crack me up]

Anyway, weird people at campgrounds. The night before last, in the last campground before LA were two gems. Not homeless per say, but these two guys living on their bikes for most of the year. The first one , a large guy built like the stay-puff marshmellow man, introduced himself as an ex-navy seal, wounded in combat (his neck) who had issues from all the people he killed. He dealt with his issues by riding his bike instead of booze and drugs like many of his peers.
"I'll be honest with you. I've killed people. And not just a few people. I count 47 people." at this point I was overcome with an extrodinarily inappropriate urge to laugh - I mean who says stuff like this????? what ever happened to 'hi, nice to meet you?'

I start twisting my face in an effort to make the massive smile spreading across my cheeks look like benign interest. He clarifies : "and not from a distance. we are talking up close and personal. Saw their eyes right before I pulled the trigger. That's right." (Now my eyebrows are slanting sideways as I try to squeeze every feature of my face together in an effort to really really not laugh. My eyes start to water. Meanwhile Michael, dead face serious, is nodding his head 'yeah, yeah'. The ex-navy seal concludes with this line: 'But those bastards deserved it - Terrorist sonsofbitches, Baby-killers. We couldn't let them get away with that.' Then he informs us that he's down to his last dollar (four dollars to my name) as his disability pay doesn't come in until the first and he had unexpected bike repairs. I excuse myself.

Later his friend, a 60 year ish man come by to chat - as he's been doing this cycle trip for something like three years I ask him if he sees many solo women cyclists (being that I have met none on this trip, and no one I have talked to have either). Oh yes, he says, and starts in on this tale of this German woman who took sponge baths in her open tent, and then chased him down to put sunscreen on her back. I'm sure he meant this to be a reassuring tale, but all I could think was great - the first other women solo cyclist i've heard about- and she's an absolute nutter. Not very reassuring. Oh and this guys opinion on skunks? 'Not that bad. Been sprayed a couple of times. Don't really see what the fuss was about.' a statement which beggers belief.

Anyway, plan to spend a few days in the relative sanity of LA - hanging out with Nicole, checking out the Getty Center, then cycling down to San Diego to stay with Michael and his wife, from where i will complete the ride to Mexico and then take off on the next leg! For now though, I'm happy to be not riding my bike (sorry bike, but we've done a lot of cycling since San Fran) and sleeping indoors for a bit :)


Map from San Fran to LA

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Rogers Wireless Message

30 m north of LA. South CA a bit of a dive compared 2 rest of coast. Looking 4ward to LA.

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Yesterday cycled 70 miles in about 4.5 hours to end up in San Simeon, which was a bit of an effort. Plus a never ending hill. Seriously, I'm still slighlty surprised it has ended. Just turn and after turn, up and up. The reason for the rush? to get to Hearst Castle to see it. As much as gawking at the unreasonable expenditure of money does not usually appeal to me, I really felt that as i was cycling past it, I should see it. It was like what I'd imagine a really expensive Euro-Disney magic castle would look like. The pools were AMAZING. The tour was a bit pro-Hearst for me.


The coast yesterday? Monstrous!! Just gorgeous, never ending cliffs, ocean, blue skies, and climbs. Also never ending climbs.

Rogers Wireless Message

Big Sur. 2day was awesome. 1 of top 3 bike days. Joe, u r an idiot! Love Sarah.

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monterey. 40 miles but WINDY. Aquarium good, campgrnd weird. Still w Michael.

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Brighton beach state prk. 56 m. 9 hrs. V close 2 tears whn spnt 2 hrs chnging tube. 2 hrs! Horrible. Then got lost. Also horrible.

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Heading off again today. Muchos gracias to Rosemary, Mike and Erin for letting me crash at their respective places. Despite the wonderful hospitality I am looking forward to being back on my bike alot. A bizarre amount, actually. Today a short trip to Half Moon Bay State Park, and then back into it proper tomorrow. Joe actually did leave and head back to Spokane, but might join me again when I do Nothern B.C.

Day before yesterday I'm wandering through SFMOMA (love it!) and who taps me on the shoulder but Alfred. He doesn't look at all surprised to see me.

"San Francisco - it's not so big. I expected to run into you today."

Which, its a bit bigger than that!

british touring techniques

please observe Michael cycling the lost coast climbs. Joe is the camera person.
I recommend you turn up the volume