More really gorgeous scenery! And finally no wind!!!!
When I first mentioned this cycling trip to my mom she suggested that I just stay in Invermere and cycle around there. I was all 'you don't get it!' but now that I'm back in the BC/Washinton region - it is some of the best cycling of the entire trip. Temperature, road conditions, scenery. Everything.
Unfortunatly, think I pulled some sort of muscle in my left leg. Body - for the last three months you have been a rock star. You have stoically accepted endless abuse without complaint (well except the day out of phoenix, az. But that day was so full of fail that it doesn't count). Knees - you have exceeded my wildest ache-free expectations. I've barely even had a sniffle. HOWEVER - Please PLEASE hold it together for the next five days!
Tomorrow the climbing begins in earnest. 1300 foot climb warm up and then the main course - 4000+ feet to the top of Sherman's Pass. I may try to get the 1300 footer out of the way today, as it is only three in the afternoon.
Thursday, July 31, 2008
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
Today:
Libby, MT to Sandpoint, Idaho (95ish miles)
currently in Clark Fork, ID
View Larger Map
This morning started really tough. With lots of wind, tired legs, and beginning to that mental calculation of exactly how bad things have to get before I can justify just calling it quits (assuming my bike suddenly fails - how expensive does the repair have to be in order to not fix it?). Very much like how at the end of term you start looking at fast moving cars as solutions. ('if i step in front of that car then I don't have to write anymore exams or even study for them! Probably only get a broken arm and some cracked ribs!)
Then things got better! Can't really explain it - the wind calmed down, the clouds cleared up, and I just cheered up. Didn't even require a diner breakfast.
Also met Jim, an elderly Irish gentleman, who is making his way from New York to Anacortes.
Oh and I realized I never put in my favorite (as in, most horrifying) Dru quote.
(Dru was the crazy woman who tried to make me cycle Monument Valley).
We're eating dinner and I'm not really listening to her very much as she goes on and on about the various men in her life. Then she goes. "So there we were at dinner and I order a nice bottle of wine but can't finish it. I don't want it to go to waste and I tell him to finish it. He doesn't want to, but I pressure him until he finally does. It was an okay date, but he was normal then. The next time I saw him he had lost his job and house."
She thinks for a bit.
"I'll tell you one thing. that's the last time I make a recovering alcoholic drink."
Libby, MT to Sandpoint, Idaho (95ish miles)
currently in Clark Fork, ID
View Larger Map
This morning started really tough. With lots of wind, tired legs, and beginning to that mental calculation of exactly how bad things have to get before I can justify just calling it quits (assuming my bike suddenly fails - how expensive does the repair have to be in order to not fix it?). Very much like how at the end of term you start looking at fast moving cars as solutions. ('if i step in front of that car then I don't have to write anymore exams or even study for them! Probably only get a broken arm and some cracked ribs!)
Then things got better! Can't really explain it - the wind calmed down, the clouds cleared up, and I just cheered up. Didn't even require a diner breakfast.
Also met Jim, an elderly Irish gentleman, who is making his way from New York to Anacortes.
Oh and I realized I never put in my favorite (as in, most horrifying) Dru quote.
(Dru was the crazy woman who tried to make me cycle Monument Valley).
We're eating dinner and I'm not really listening to her very much as she goes on and on about the various men in her life. Then she goes. "So there we were at dinner and I order a nice bottle of wine but can't finish it. I don't want it to go to waste and I tell him to finish it. He doesn't want to, but I pressure him until he finally does. It was an okay date, but he was normal then. The next time I saw him he had lost his job and house."
She thinks for a bit.
"I'll tell you one thing. that's the last time I make a recovering alcoholic drink."
Tuesday, July 29, 2008
Libby, MT
Yesterday got from Fernie to just outside a little place called Eureka (this is my second 'Eureka' of the trip). It has occured to me that if I had just decided to go get my car in Invermere, I would be there by now and not updating you about the woes of a worn out back tire (requiring me to switch my front tire to my back and put my spare on my front) and the two inner tube changes that i've made in the last two days, the worst hamburger ever (junction of 3 and 93 west of Fernie). Oh and the wind.
However the die is cast and all that and i'm focused on the 700 or so miles left to seattle.
Good points have been the lake/pine tree scenery. And lots of up and down (the down parts are the good points).
Right now I'm in Libby, Mt and off to see the fire department about camping arrangments.
However the die is cast and all that and i'm focused on the 700 or so miles left to seattle.
Good points have been the lake/pine tree scenery. And lots of up and down (the down parts are the good points).
Right now I'm in Libby, Mt and off to see the fire department about camping arrangments.
Sunday, July 27, 2008
Saturday did 107 miles from Avalanche Campground in Glacier National Park to Pincher Creek, AB
- Going-to-the-sun climb (west to east) is the greatest climb ever! Every cyclist should do it if they get the chance. Its not steep, so you can just spin up it for a couple of hours - AND 'climbing' speed is the perfect speed to take in the views. I started climbing at 7 am to avoid the heat and the cars and it was amazing. The sun coming up over the peaks, the waterfalls of melting snow spilling over rocks, no problems with traffic. Great. Sure, like all climbs you end up wishing it was a mile shorter a mile from the end, but over all - three thumbs up!
- the rest of the day. Ups and Downs. Nothing really remarkable until I crossed the cdn border and immediately got attacked by blackflies. ick. But Waterton National Park was great too. Then, coming up to Pincher Creek, I saw the worst thing a cyclist could see (i used to think it was the 'passing lane' signs until I saw the decapitated deer lying on the shoulder) BUT it was an entire field of windmills pointing in the direction I was going. I had to stop for five minutes to absorb how something so good (green energy, yey!) could cause me so much despair.
HOWEVER, for once FOR ONCE the gods were smiling on me! And for the last 17 miles, as I started crossing this expanse - THERE WAS NO WIND. I felt like Odysseus - finally being allowed home. Unfortuntely, proving that as flies to wanton boys are we to the gods, the next morning the wind was back full force, the windmills gustily spinning as I headed out with very low spirits. The 76 miles today to Fernie were pretty long miles.
Now that I have crossed Crows Nest Pass East to West, no one else needs to do it. Its up there with 'cycling across deserts' as an experience just best avoided. OF COURSE in one of the numerous gas stations I stop at, the locals tell me: 'windy? this is a calm day here in the pass' Whatever. I had to pedal down a 4-5% grade just to stop from being blown over! Pedaling downhill!!!!! That's just wrong. It felt like a sign of the apocalypse. I did eventually get through it, but I took my time. No 'historic point of interest' went unread, no visitor centre unvisted, no scenic lookout unviewed. It was perhaps the most educational 76 miles of my trip.
Finally I'd like to dedicate what's left on this post to my sister Julie who is on her trip to France and Italy. Julie doesn't like to talk to me about her vacation plans because she says I don't get excited enough and say things like "If all you are doing is sitting on a horse while it blindly follows the horse in front of it, then No, I don't see what's so exciting about trail riding through the Belize jungle."
Which gets her mad.
So I'm taking this opportunity to say how excited I am for your trip, Julie, and I hope all sorts of exciting Hepburn-esque adventures happen. Perhaps your suitcase will get swapped with a mysterious stranger's and hijinks ensue. Or you haplessly catch the wrong train, get invited to a formal diner and require the sage bellhop's aid in acquiring a dress!? Who knows! Things like that happen in Europe. Even if its just you and your friends hanging out sipping wine and chewing bread (the only two things I suspect you'll be able to afford :) than that still sounds like an awesome time and I'm happy and excited for you. MYLYBS.
ETA: tomorrow back across the border and then onto Seattle for the fourth and last leg of my trip.
ETA2: my phone doesn't work in canada. I am just cursed when it comes to cell phone. Maybe it will work when I get back to the States.
- Going-to-the-sun climb (west to east) is the greatest climb ever! Every cyclist should do it if they get the chance. Its not steep, so you can just spin up it for a couple of hours - AND 'climbing' speed is the perfect speed to take in the views. I started climbing at 7 am to avoid the heat and the cars and it was amazing. The sun coming up over the peaks, the waterfalls of melting snow spilling over rocks, no problems with traffic. Great. Sure, like all climbs you end up wishing it was a mile shorter a mile from the end, but over all - three thumbs up!
- the rest of the day. Ups and Downs. Nothing really remarkable until I crossed the cdn border and immediately got attacked by blackflies. ick. But Waterton National Park was great too. Then, coming up to Pincher Creek, I saw the worst thing a cyclist could see (i used to think it was the 'passing lane' signs until I saw the decapitated deer lying on the shoulder) BUT it was an entire field of windmills pointing in the direction I was going. I had to stop for five minutes to absorb how something so good (green energy, yey!) could cause me so much despair.
HOWEVER, for once FOR ONCE the gods were smiling on me! And for the last 17 miles, as I started crossing this expanse - THERE WAS NO WIND. I felt like Odysseus - finally being allowed home. Unfortuntely, proving that as flies to wanton boys are we to the gods, the next morning the wind was back full force, the windmills gustily spinning as I headed out with very low spirits. The 76 miles today to Fernie were pretty long miles.
Now that I have crossed Crows Nest Pass East to West, no one else needs to do it. Its up there with 'cycling across deserts' as an experience just best avoided. OF COURSE in one of the numerous gas stations I stop at, the locals tell me: 'windy? this is a calm day here in the pass' Whatever. I had to pedal down a 4-5% grade just to stop from being blown over! Pedaling downhill!!!!! That's just wrong. It felt like a sign of the apocalypse. I did eventually get through it, but I took my time. No 'historic point of interest' went unread, no visitor centre unvisted, no scenic lookout unviewed. It was perhaps the most educational 76 miles of my trip.
Finally I'd like to dedicate what's left on this post to my sister Julie who is on her trip to France and Italy. Julie doesn't like to talk to me about her vacation plans because she says I don't get excited enough and say things like "If all you are doing is sitting on a horse while it blindly follows the horse in front of it, then No, I don't see what's so exciting about trail riding through the Belize jungle."
Which gets her mad.
So I'm taking this opportunity to say how excited I am for your trip, Julie, and I hope all sorts of exciting Hepburn-esque adventures happen. Perhaps your suitcase will get swapped with a mysterious stranger's and hijinks ensue. Or you haplessly catch the wrong train, get invited to a formal diner and require the sage bellhop's aid in acquiring a dress!? Who knows! Things like that happen in Europe. Even if its just you and your friends hanging out sipping wine and chewing bread (the only two things I suspect you'll be able to afford :) than that still sounds like an awesome time and I'm happy and excited for you. MYLYBS.
ETA: tomorrow back across the border and then onto Seattle for the fourth and last leg of my trip.
ETA2: my phone doesn't work in canada. I am just cursed when it comes to cell phone. Maybe it will work when I get back to the States.
Friday, July 25, 2008
Columbia Falls. MT
Wednesday:
Left Missoula, cycled another 28-ish miles to Headquarters Lubrecht Experimental Forest. There I camped in the midst of a youth camp (but for free!) and shared the cycling area with Doug - a retired US Army Colonel. The people you meet cycle-touring! I totally quized him about the US military. Not the type of person I'd been expecting as a colonel. He is on a trike, and cetainly had me convinced about its comfort benefits (even if it does require a lot of space on the road). Heading from Jasper to Charleston (his home town). He also shared with me his touring motto: Start slow and ease up. :)
He was also carrying 60 lbs of gear and absolutly could not believe how little stuff I have. I told him that other than the guys carrying their dogs, I think he's the heaviest I've meet.
Thursday: Left the campground and did 100 easy aweseome miles. Just endless lakes lined with sheltering pine trees. Perfect 66 degrees. Kept on going cause I wanted Spent last night sharing a campsite with Martin, a german dude who actually may have had more stuff than Doug - except that Martin is doing the great divide, which is a mtn bike route that requires a lot more gear. Although I doubt he needs all FIVE pots/pans/dishes. I also introduced him to the wonder of coucous.
Today: From here (Columbia Falls) I have another 30 miles to give me a nice short day to the base of 'Going-to-the-sun' highway. Then first thing bright and early tomorrow I shall be climbing the 3,500 ish feet. Bicycles are prohibited on the roads betwen 11 am and 4 pm. So there is an exciting element of time to the whole thing (although I do wonder what they do if its 11 and you aren't at the top yet? Do they collect all cyclists and just drive them up the rest of the way?)
Sunday I expect to be in Canada heading towards Fernie. Where I will then loop South to connect to the northern route through Washington. Where incidentally - there is going to be about a pass a day (what a way to end the trip- just climb after climb after climb).
It is going to be quite difficult to be in Fernie, and head south rather than just heading to my car in Invermere. The temptation may be too much to resist!
eta: apparently its puppy season. Gamboling puppies everywhere!!!! So cute! Also - the only thing weirder looking than a llama? A shaved llama. I saw one today and thought: why is that poodle grazing?
Left Missoula, cycled another 28-ish miles to Headquarters Lubrecht Experimental Forest. There I camped in the midst of a youth camp (but for free!) and shared the cycling area with Doug - a retired US Army Colonel. The people you meet cycle-touring! I totally quized him about the US military. Not the type of person I'd been expecting as a colonel. He is on a trike, and cetainly had me convinced about its comfort benefits (even if it does require a lot of space on the road). Heading from Jasper to Charleston (his home town). He also shared with me his touring motto: Start slow and ease up. :)
He was also carrying 60 lbs of gear and absolutly could not believe how little stuff I have. I told him that other than the guys carrying their dogs, I think he's the heaviest I've meet.
Thursday: Left the campground and did 100 easy aweseome miles. Just endless lakes lined with sheltering pine trees. Perfect 66 degrees. Kept on going cause I wanted Spent last night sharing a campsite with Martin, a german dude who actually may have had more stuff than Doug - except that Martin is doing the great divide, which is a mtn bike route that requires a lot more gear. Although I doubt he needs all FIVE pots/pans/dishes. I also introduced him to the wonder of coucous.
Today: From here (Columbia Falls) I have another 30 miles to give me a nice short day to the base of 'Going-to-the-sun' highway. Then first thing bright and early tomorrow I shall be climbing the 3,500 ish feet. Bicycles are prohibited on the roads betwen 11 am and 4 pm. So there is an exciting element of time to the whole thing (although I do wonder what they do if its 11 and you aren't at the top yet? Do they collect all cyclists and just drive them up the rest of the way?)
Sunday I expect to be in Canada heading towards Fernie. Where I will then loop South to connect to the northern route through Washington. Where incidentally - there is going to be about a pass a day (what a way to end the trip- just climb after climb after climb).
It is going to be quite difficult to be in Fernie, and head south rather than just heading to my car in Invermere. The temptation may be too much to resist!
eta: apparently its puppy season. Gamboling puppies everywhere!!!! So cute! Also - the only thing weirder looking than a llama? A shaved llama. I saw one today and thought: why is that poodle grazing?
Wednesday, July 23, 2008
slight change of plans!
Instead of heading back to Invermere before the Seattle wedding, I think I'm going to cycle to Seattle. There might be a bit of a dramatic ending, timing wise - but I am confident I can do it (when am I not? :)
Maybe I'll even have an extra day or so for Glacier National Park.
As close as I can get google maps to show me, its this: plus heading to seattle at the end!
View Larger Map
(right now I'm in Missoula, MT, headquarters of Adventure Cycling Association.) The bike chain thing is fixed. Rear cassette is fine. THe horrendous noise was due to me threading the chain UNDER a metal thingy rather than OVER it when I re-snapped the chain together. All I am going to say about this is the same thing I said to the bike guy when he showed how the chain was supposed to go: Its amazing how you learn something every day.
May stay here tonight or move onto a campground. Checking out the weather.
Maybe I'll even have an extra day or so for Glacier National Park.
As close as I can get google maps to show me, its this: plus heading to seattle at the end!
View Larger Map
(right now I'm in Missoula, MT, headquarters of Adventure Cycling Association.) The bike chain thing is fixed. Rear cassette is fine. THe horrendous noise was due to me threading the chain UNDER a metal thingy rather than OVER it when I re-snapped the chain together. All I am going to say about this is the same thing I said to the bike guy when he showed how the chain was supposed to go: Its amazing how you learn something every day.
May stay here tonight or move onto a campground. Checking out the weather.
Tuesday, July 22, 2008
Darby, Montana
Montana is a great place to cycle. Even with the head winds that have apparently decided to torment me through the state. AND even with my chain snapping yesterday in the midst of a climb (the same chain I bought in Jackson Hole). Luckily I have this extra link that I could put in to chain it together again - but now it makes this horrific noise and I'm sure its eating my rear cassette all to peices. Only another 60 or so miles to go to another bike shop!
That's the thing with touring. So many things happen in one day - you are in total awe and amazement over a view (or a egg omelete) and then 90 mins later you are staring at your broken chain, in the middle of 46 miles of NOTHING, 230 miles to the nearest bike shop - 1500 feet left to climb, thinking 'ok, what now?"
Montana is best when you are cycling next to one of its wonderful rivers, waving at the fly fisherpeople, with the temperature a friendly 75. Montana also has endless vistas of grassy plains. These grassy plains are great as you descend into them and think 'wow - that's endless!' , but after three days, and you are STILL IN THIS GRASSY PLAIN, all you are thinking is: end already!!!!!
Of course they end with a climb through a mountain pass, so its not all good news.
This morning was one of those mornings where i told myself: 'Sarah, today is a success if you just get out of bed.'
It was pouring out, and the bugs were especially vicious. But I got out of my tent, staggered the 500 meters into town (Wisdom), and waited in a local cafe drinking copious cups of coffee until the weather cleared slightly. Then I returned, packed up my campsite,and got going. Two hours later, as I was hitting the climb for the day, the weather cleared, the sun came out, and I enjoyed one of my best descents. Seven miles down highway 93. Good pavement, no traffic. GREAT.
View Larger Map
Plus 16 miles off route which I decided I'd rather cycle and camp for free than pay KOA's exorbiant tent fees. 25$ for a tent?????? Gimme a break!!!
That's the thing with touring. So many things happen in one day - you are in total awe and amazement over a view (or a egg omelete) and then 90 mins later you are staring at your broken chain, in the middle of 46 miles of NOTHING, 230 miles to the nearest bike shop - 1500 feet left to climb, thinking 'ok, what now?"
Montana is best when you are cycling next to one of its wonderful rivers, waving at the fly fisherpeople, with the temperature a friendly 75. Montana also has endless vistas of grassy plains. These grassy plains are great as you descend into them and think 'wow - that's endless!' , but after three days, and you are STILL IN THIS GRASSY PLAIN, all you are thinking is: end already!!!!!
Of course they end with a climb through a mountain pass, so its not all good news.
This morning was one of those mornings where i told myself: 'Sarah, today is a success if you just get out of bed.'
It was pouring out, and the bugs were especially vicious. But I got out of my tent, staggered the 500 meters into town (Wisdom), and waited in a local cafe drinking copious cups of coffee until the weather cleared slightly. Then I returned, packed up my campsite,and got going. Two hours later, as I was hitting the climb for the day, the weather cleared, the sun came out, and I enjoyed one of my best descents. Seven miles down highway 93. Good pavement, no traffic. GREAT.
View Larger Map
Plus 16 miles off route which I decided I'd rather cycle and camp for free than pay KOA's exorbiant tent fees. 25$ for a tent?????? Gimme a break!!!
Friday, July 18, 2008
West Yellowstone
Did 80 miles yesterday through the park. 15 miles today before hitting town and deciding I needed the day off. Since its been raining on/off all day, seems to have been a good choice. If its still raining tomorrow may take a full day off for real, and maybe even have another shower :0
Yellowstone park *is* amazing. Fields of steam floating past, the colours in the pools - the problem is there are so MANY people! It is packed. Its really hard to appreciate Old Faithful when you have to listen to a british man berate his wife to THINK before she opens her mouth to SPEAK to him. I want to come back in the winter/fall for a week. I think the park would be a lot easier to experience without all these people.
There was a good moment when I was unlocking my bike when a woman approached me - saying how they were behind me in their RV on a descent and paced me at 42 mph - which they couldn't believe - then when they finally passed me her two boys shouted :"And its a girl!"
hee.
:)
Yellowstone park *is* amazing. Fields of steam floating past, the colours in the pools - the problem is there are so MANY people! It is packed. Its really hard to appreciate Old Faithful when you have to listen to a british man berate his wife to THINK before she opens her mouth to SPEAK to him. I want to come back in the winter/fall for a week. I think the park would be a lot easier to experience without all these people.
There was a good moment when I was unlocking my bike when a woman approached me - saying how they were behind me in their RV on a descent and paced me at 42 mph - which they couldn't believe - then when they finally passed me her two boys shouted :"And its a girl!"
hee.
:)
Wednesday, July 16, 2008
Jackson update
the wind may be blowing in the right direction!
Spent some time in the bike shop (and 200$)
- new bike shorts(100 but ABSOLUTLEY NEEDED)
- handle bars re-wraped
- new chain
- new cleats for my shoes (i've lost track - third pair? Fourth?)
- a net for carrying things on my handlebars that will hopefully work better than my bungee.
DID NOT BUY
- and $125 gorgeous merino wool bike jersey in my size (and with pockets!) that i came so close to buying. Because it is the best material ever for long term use and abuse. But in the end could not bear the idea of sending my Team Canada jersey home. Plus, 125 dollars buys a lot of cliff bars :)
Spent some time in the bike shop (and 200$)
- new bike shorts(100 but ABSOLUTLEY NEEDED)
- handle bars re-wraped
- new chain
- new cleats for my shoes (i've lost track - third pair? Fourth?)
- a net for carrying things on my handlebars that will hopefully work better than my bungee.
DID NOT BUY
- and $125 gorgeous merino wool bike jersey in my size (and with pockets!) that i came so close to buying. Because it is the best material ever for long term use and abuse. But in the end could not bear the idea of sending my Team Canada jersey home. Plus, 125 dollars buys a lot of cliff bars :)
A lot of cycling.
RAWLINGS TO Jackson Hole(too many miles to count)
Left Rawlings Sunday at about 7:00. Little did I know it then, but I would do 125 miles that day.
Nice smooth early morning (non-windy) ridin) for 30 miles until I hit my first destination:
"In south-central wyoming, 125 miles of highway stretch from Casper south to Rawlings. Along the east side of the highway, just south of Lamont, is an oasis. It's called ...
GRANDMA'S CAFE - OPEN"
(from the menu).
A DINER BREAKFAST! My first in a long time. As I was the only customer, I sat chatting with Grandma for about an hour or so before heading on my way. Back on the bike I go - the scenery in Wyoming just improved the further north and west I went - and at this point I was getting 20 mile vistas of wyoming plains, herds of antelope galloping beside me. Pretty spectacular. Another 11 miles, hit another reststop (Muddy Gap), then another 20 miles, and I'm at my destination for the day. Jeffrey City. Population 2, as far as I could tell. The old guy who ran the cafe/bar/restaurant and his friend. I stopped in for a coke (I know! terrible! but I'm having so much trouble drinking enough that I've had to start drinking carbonated or else my stomach just feels awful). Anyway, the the two old men were glued to what I can safely say is the worst movie of all time. I only saw half an hour of it, but it had the actors talking to animatronic shark fins, and the fins listening! The plot was genetically engineered sharks escape into a lake. It had lines like 'It may sound like science fiction, but it's not - it's science fact!' complete with a little blonde girl with pigtails, and the two main scientists being a bickering divorced couple. IT WAS AGONIZINGLY terrible.
It was 1:30 pm, and I looked at that place and I thought : I can not spend another 7 hours of day light here. I will go crazy. There were headwinds, but not terrible headwinds. Looked at my map, saw that next reststop was 20 miles up the road - thought ok. I can do that. Three miles into that leg and I meet two oncoming tourers who tell me that there is a 'guy with a beard' 10 miles a head of me. Well! As Joe would say, you might as well have dangled a fresh peanut butter and banana sandwich in front of me! Someone else going in my direction? I told them good bye, and put on my time-trialling hat. Hands in the drops, helmet tucked as far into my handle bar bag as possible, and I was off. My hope was to catch him while he was still taking a break at Sweetwater (the next stop). I get to sweetwater - he's gone. Crap! the next town, Lander, is another 40 miles. I'm already at 85 miles for the day. But he's probably just a head of me, its only 3:30. I can do it. Back on the bike. Back to time trialling. 20 miles later I catch him.
It's Dave. A 22 year old guy taking six months before starting flight school with the US airforce. Just a really nice, solid, grounded guy. We trundle through the last 20 miles together and camp out at Lander - a cycling -friendly and otherwise really cool town - free camping in the city park. one of my fellow campers was practicing their flame-sword throwing. Was quite spectacular after dark.
Also in Lander, had one of the weirdest conversations I've had yet (which is saying a lot). In the morning as I'm waiting for Dave (he's one of those meticulous guys who takes forever to pack up) the 'alumiun can collecting guy' comes to the garbage bin near me. He says hello, I say hello, we chat a bit about cycling (my bike is with me) and then he goes:
Him: So, are you from Germany?
Me: What? No, Canadian.
Him. French Canadian?.
Me: No... English.
Him. huh. (pause) Lady, you have one strange accent.
then he walks off with his bags of aluminum cans. Was he messing with me? I have no idea!
But Lander = coolest town in Wyoming so far.
MONDAY - LANDER TO ASPEN MEADOWS (80-odd miles)
The next day, Dave talks me into heading off to this cyclist only camping spot 80-odd miles. Dave called ahead to the people who 'run' it (its basically their home) and the guy there (also Dave - Hostel-Dave) thinks its not a good idea to try to make it in one day. Cycling-Dave hangs up the phone and goes: I think we can make it. Actually what he says is, I'm pretty sure I can make, and I'm sure you can. Showing that despite knowing me for only about 4 hours, he'd already figured out how to manipulate me.
We did not get an early start. Didn't leave until maybe 8:30. Nonetheless the first 40 miles were nice. Gradual climbing, but as I said, scenically, Wyoming just kept on getting better. Green sands! These giant cubic stones looking like protruding molars. Really gorgeous and unique looking. Then we get to Crowheart. 27 miles to Dubois (the next town), 36 miles to the cycling hostel.
Me: Well Cycling-Dave, I think you're right. I think we will make it. The only thing that could cause us problems now is if the wind picks up.
WHOOSH
The wind picked up. Both of us in our easiest gear, staring at our feet, just plowing our way, weaving as the wind shoved us around. Dave is going at maybe 4 miles per hour, and I just can't. I just can't go that slow. I go in front, and within a mile can't see him anymore. On I go. Cursing the wind (why won't you stop???). What really ends up screwing me up is that my map indicates there is a gas station 6 miles from Dubois. So I lock onto that gas station with the mental ferocity of a rottweiler. I'm drinking my water knowing that there is this gas station, i'm doing my 'mile countdown' to the gas station. Well guess what? NO GAS STATION.
After another agonizing HOUR i finally hit town, where I have to cycle another mile before I reach a store I can buy something at. I am raging against the town - every town should have a mini-mart or something at its main entrances! !!!! I finally hit a pharmacy (of all things) and I stagger in. The woman at the counter looks at me and goes 'should I get you a glass of water or just call 9-1-1?'
which to be fair, I don't think i looked *that* bad.
It took me just over 3 hours to do that 25 miles. I wait in the town for about 75 minutes for Dave. He does not show up. I call Hostel-Dave, saying I'm still going to try to get there (Nine more miles! into the wind!). He asks where other dave is. I dunno, I tell him, I lost him in the wind. 15 mins later, still no sign of cycling-Dave, I head off. Hostel- Dave earns my gratitude for life for driving out and picking me up with still three miles left. SO HAPPY TO GET OUT OF THAT WIND.
Hostel-Dave and his wife Jo-An, basically open their home to cyclists coming through the area. Its not a hostel, its their home. Wonderful old wooden cabins to sleep in, a garage for bikes, they cook the cyclists dinner and breakfast (more than you could possibly eat). Its all incredible and incredibly unexpected. And so much history! hostel-Dave's family has been in the same town since 1893 or something. I really felt I got a glimpse of wyoming that i never would have staying in a campsite, or just cycling through.
Cycling Dave shows up there in about another hour. So he's been on his bike straight for almost 12 hours. The two of us greet each other as if we just unexpectedly survived a gruesome battle.
Me: "I'm sorry! I just had to leave you! I just couldn't go that slow! I would have died."
Him: No! I was glad you went! I was hoping you weren't waiting!"
After a nights sleep and endless: spaghetti, fruit, salad, yogurt, water, juice, blueberry pancakes, we head off again. Fortified for the days cycling which includes: 2,500 feet of climbing over 20 miles. After the climb, Dave and I split up, as he's a hurry to get to Yellowstone, and I want to see Jackson Hole. Down a 17 mile descent, across a grassy plan, with the Tetons, as otherworldy as a second moon, slowly rising in the distance.
I miss my campground and have to backtrack 8 miles (resulting in a day of 75 miles - which I did NOT NEED). I was not pleased. Campground was beautiful (nestled at the feet of the Tetons) and as I was cycling in the wrong direction I meet Allie (out for an evening ride) - a woman who has an engineering degree but has spent the last 8 years out here in Jackson Hole, skiing during the days, waitressing tables at night.
"I just love to ski" she tells me "I just love it. You know?"
I KNOW!
Camped out at Jenny Lake. Cycled the 15 miles or so this morning into Jackson Hole where I plan to spend the day in the library, in the coffee shop, and otherwise NOT RIDING MY BICYCLE until about 3:00 pm, when i'm heading back out 35 miles to a campsite. (there isn't really anywhere to stay in town that's inexpensive). Of course if there is wind, I am not going anywhere. I do not care. i can not mentally handle another 35 miles into the wind. I would make it as far as the Jackson Hole Airport, and I believe that would be the end of my trip.
Here's hoping the days become less epic. I am starting to get really tired.
Left Rawlings Sunday at about 7:00. Little did I know it then, but I would do 125 miles that day.
Nice smooth early morning (non-windy) ridin) for 30 miles until I hit my first destination:
"In south-central wyoming, 125 miles of highway stretch from Casper south to Rawlings. Along the east side of the highway, just south of Lamont, is an oasis. It's called ...
GRANDMA'S CAFE - OPEN"
(from the menu).
A DINER BREAKFAST! My first in a long time. As I was the only customer, I sat chatting with Grandma for about an hour or so before heading on my way. Back on the bike I go - the scenery in Wyoming just improved the further north and west I went - and at this point I was getting 20 mile vistas of wyoming plains, herds of antelope galloping beside me. Pretty spectacular. Another 11 miles, hit another reststop (Muddy Gap), then another 20 miles, and I'm at my destination for the day. Jeffrey City. Population 2, as far as I could tell. The old guy who ran the cafe/bar/restaurant and his friend. I stopped in for a coke (I know! terrible! but I'm having so much trouble drinking enough that I've had to start drinking carbonated or else my stomach just feels awful). Anyway, the the two old men were glued to what I can safely say is the worst movie of all time. I only saw half an hour of it, but it had the actors talking to animatronic shark fins, and the fins listening! The plot was genetically engineered sharks escape into a lake. It had lines like 'It may sound like science fiction, but it's not - it's science fact!' complete with a little blonde girl with pigtails, and the two main scientists being a bickering divorced couple. IT WAS AGONIZINGLY terrible.
It was 1:30 pm, and I looked at that place and I thought : I can not spend another 7 hours of day light here. I will go crazy. There were headwinds, but not terrible headwinds. Looked at my map, saw that next reststop was 20 miles up the road - thought ok. I can do that. Three miles into that leg and I meet two oncoming tourers who tell me that there is a 'guy with a beard' 10 miles a head of me. Well! As Joe would say, you might as well have dangled a fresh peanut butter and banana sandwich in front of me! Someone else going in my direction? I told them good bye, and put on my time-trialling hat. Hands in the drops, helmet tucked as far into my handle bar bag as possible, and I was off. My hope was to catch him while he was still taking a break at Sweetwater (the next stop). I get to sweetwater - he's gone. Crap! the next town, Lander, is another 40 miles. I'm already at 85 miles for the day. But he's probably just a head of me, its only 3:30. I can do it. Back on the bike. Back to time trialling. 20 miles later I catch him.
It's Dave. A 22 year old guy taking six months before starting flight school with the US airforce. Just a really nice, solid, grounded guy. We trundle through the last 20 miles together and camp out at Lander - a cycling -friendly and otherwise really cool town - free camping in the city park. one of my fellow campers was practicing their flame-sword throwing. Was quite spectacular after dark.
Also in Lander, had one of the weirdest conversations I've had yet (which is saying a lot). In the morning as I'm waiting for Dave (he's one of those meticulous guys who takes forever to pack up) the 'alumiun can collecting guy' comes to the garbage bin near me. He says hello, I say hello, we chat a bit about cycling (my bike is with me) and then he goes:
Him: So, are you from Germany?
Me: What? No, Canadian.
Him. French Canadian?.
Me: No... English.
Him. huh. (pause) Lady, you have one strange accent.
then he walks off with his bags of aluminum cans. Was he messing with me? I have no idea!
But Lander = coolest town in Wyoming so far.
MONDAY - LANDER TO ASPEN MEADOWS (80-odd miles)
The next day, Dave talks me into heading off to this cyclist only camping spot 80-odd miles. Dave called ahead to the people who 'run' it (its basically their home) and the guy there (also Dave - Hostel-Dave) thinks its not a good idea to try to make it in one day. Cycling-Dave hangs up the phone and goes: I think we can make it. Actually what he says is, I'm pretty sure I can make, and I'm sure you can. Showing that despite knowing me for only about 4 hours, he'd already figured out how to manipulate me.
We did not get an early start. Didn't leave until maybe 8:30. Nonetheless the first 40 miles were nice. Gradual climbing, but as I said, scenically, Wyoming just kept on getting better. Green sands! These giant cubic stones looking like protruding molars. Really gorgeous and unique looking. Then we get to Crowheart. 27 miles to Dubois (the next town), 36 miles to the cycling hostel.
Me: Well Cycling-Dave, I think you're right. I think we will make it. The only thing that could cause us problems now is if the wind picks up.
WHOOSH
The wind picked up. Both of us in our easiest gear, staring at our feet, just plowing our way, weaving as the wind shoved us around. Dave is going at maybe 4 miles per hour, and I just can't. I just can't go that slow. I go in front, and within a mile can't see him anymore. On I go. Cursing the wind (why won't you stop???). What really ends up screwing me up is that my map indicates there is a gas station 6 miles from Dubois. So I lock onto that gas station with the mental ferocity of a rottweiler. I'm drinking my water knowing that there is this gas station, i'm doing my 'mile countdown' to the gas station. Well guess what? NO GAS STATION.
After another agonizing HOUR i finally hit town, where I have to cycle another mile before I reach a store I can buy something at. I am raging against the town - every town should have a mini-mart or something at its main entrances! !!!! I finally hit a pharmacy (of all things) and I stagger in. The woman at the counter looks at me and goes 'should I get you a glass of water or just call 9-1-1?'
which to be fair, I don't think i looked *that* bad.
It took me just over 3 hours to do that 25 miles. I wait in the town for about 75 minutes for Dave. He does not show up. I call Hostel-Dave, saying I'm still going to try to get there (Nine more miles! into the wind!). He asks where other dave is. I dunno, I tell him, I lost him in the wind. 15 mins later, still no sign of cycling-Dave, I head off. Hostel- Dave earns my gratitude for life for driving out and picking me up with still three miles left. SO HAPPY TO GET OUT OF THAT WIND.
Hostel-Dave and his wife Jo-An, basically open their home to cyclists coming through the area. Its not a hostel, its their home. Wonderful old wooden cabins to sleep in, a garage for bikes, they cook the cyclists dinner and breakfast (more than you could possibly eat). Its all incredible and incredibly unexpected. And so much history! hostel-Dave's family has been in the same town since 1893 or something. I really felt I got a glimpse of wyoming that i never would have staying in a campsite, or just cycling through.
Cycling Dave shows up there in about another hour. So he's been on his bike straight for almost 12 hours. The two of us greet each other as if we just unexpectedly survived a gruesome battle.
Me: "I'm sorry! I just had to leave you! I just couldn't go that slow! I would have died."
Him: No! I was glad you went! I was hoping you weren't waiting!"
After a nights sleep and endless: spaghetti, fruit, salad, yogurt, water, juice, blueberry pancakes, we head off again. Fortified for the days cycling which includes: 2,500 feet of climbing over 20 miles. After the climb, Dave and I split up, as he's a hurry to get to Yellowstone, and I want to see Jackson Hole. Down a 17 mile descent, across a grassy plan, with the Tetons, as otherworldy as a second moon, slowly rising in the distance.
I miss my campground and have to backtrack 8 miles (resulting in a day of 75 miles - which I did NOT NEED). I was not pleased. Campground was beautiful (nestled at the feet of the Tetons) and as I was cycling in the wrong direction I meet Allie (out for an evening ride) - a woman who has an engineering degree but has spent the last 8 years out here in Jackson Hole, skiing during the days, waitressing tables at night.
"I just love to ski" she tells me "I just love it. You know?"
I KNOW!
Camped out at Jenny Lake. Cycled the 15 miles or so this morning into Jackson Hole where I plan to spend the day in the library, in the coffee shop, and otherwise NOT RIDING MY BICYCLE until about 3:00 pm, when i'm heading back out 35 miles to a campsite. (there isn't really anywhere to stay in town that's inexpensive). Of course if there is wind, I am not going anywhere. I do not care. i can not mentally handle another 35 miles into the wind. I would make it as far as the Jackson Hole Airport, and I believe that would be the end of my trip.
Here's hoping the days become less epic. I am starting to get really tired.
Saturday, July 12, 2008
San Diego Zoo
As I'm killing time avoiding the sun, I'd thought I'd give an update on this.
When I was in San Diego, I stayed an extra day and checked out the San Diego Zoo. I LOVED IT. Overheard all sort of great 'american quotes' my favourite being this woman, who after observing the polar bear exhibit commented on how adorable they were, then added : "We have *got* to take that trip to Canada." Clearly expecting to be greeted by frolicking polar bears once she crossed the 49th. In fact, I can't imagine a better way to discourage tourism than to have 'playful' polar bears waiting at the border crossings.
In her defence, these polar bears were RIDICULOUSLY cute. They wrestled, they played with their toys - one would sumersault into the water, and the other would watch carefully, then timing it correctly, bellyflop *ontop* of his friend, sending them both spinning to the bottom admist giant waves and spashes. At one point, one of the polar bears put a bucket on his head while wrestling - the other polar bear decides this is a great idea and puts a bucket on his head too. Now we've got two semi-blinded polar bears wrestling with each other with buckets on their heads - flapping their giant paws, backing over each other, bouncing off of walls, crashing into the water - cue giant air bubbles of surprise - are you getting the sense how cute these bears were? If I thought one of these goofballs was going to show up at my door, I would never leave Canada.
BUT that's not what this post is about. As a canadian, my admittance ticket got me a free tour and a free skyride (its a special discount for Canadians - probably a thank you for their number one exhibit). On this tour, the tour guide, a well spoken, knowledgeable woman said the following: 'and isn't it great that the San Diego Zoo provides free parking!' and I thought about it, and I didn't think it was so great that they were encouraging everyone to drive cars - but I didn't say anything.
Then I thought it about it some more, and that I should have said something. That it's because people like me don't say stuff that the world is in the shape that its in - that if you're not part of the solution you are part of the problem, yada yada yada.
So the next morning I decide to write an email to the San Diego Zoo, saying that I thought it was inappropriate that an institution that prides itself on its conservationalism efforts, subsdizes cars (via free parking) over alternative transportation. I suggested that they should charge for parking, and use those extra funds towards encouraging alt. transportation.
I get back as pretty basic Customer Service reply: Thanks for you comments, we love it when our guests take an interest... hope to see you again soon at the zoo...' malarky. Him/her also informed me that the parking lot was owned by the city and as such they couldn't charge for it.
I was off to the Grand Canyon and didn't really think much of it until I got to Zion, and suddenly had a lot of time to think. At which point I realized that it didn't matter whether it was the Zoo's decision to charge for parking or not, what mattered was the effect - and the effect was that people who drove were getting a benefit, thereby encouraging that behaviour.
So I wrote back. Outlining that arguement - and suggesting that since they couldn't charge for parking, at least they should offer a similar incentive for those who came by alternative transportation. A five dollar discount or something.
I would like to suggest that the Zoo offset this [driver benefit] by offering a discount/benefit for those who come by bus or bicycle. Perhaps five dollars off admission price for those who produce a bicycle or a valid bus ticket.
Initially, I do not believe (based on the few bicycles I saw in the bike rack) that such a policy would have a significant impact on your admission dollars generated. In the alternative, if it was wildly successful in encouraging individuals to leave their cars at home, to the extent it was impacting those dollars - then it would be a great accomplishment for an organization like yours.
I concluded with
I understand that you may not be the person making these policy decisions. But if you agree in principle with subsidizing alternative transportation - that it is a 'good idea' in line with the Zoo's objectives in promoting sustainability, I would appreciate you forwarding this email to the individuals who are responsible.
I get back nothing.
About a week later I get back a reply that is almost identical to the first reply they sent me, but with out the parking information.
NOW I'm annoyed. But more than that, I'm intrigued.
Offering a discount to cyclists or public transportation riders is a total no-brainer! OBVIOUSLY any remotely green organization should be doing that! Plus it would be so easy to do! There is no reason (that I can think of, or that they have provided me) why they are NOT doing it. Other than the obvious that someone can't be bothered to make a decision to do it.
So I'm intrigued to find out exactly how hard it is to get a good idea implemented, for no reason other than - it's a good idea!. Stay tuned!
When I was in San Diego, I stayed an extra day and checked out the San Diego Zoo. I LOVED IT. Overheard all sort of great 'american quotes' my favourite being this woman, who after observing the polar bear exhibit commented on how adorable they were, then added : "We have *got* to take that trip to Canada." Clearly expecting to be greeted by frolicking polar bears once she crossed the 49th. In fact, I can't imagine a better way to discourage tourism than to have 'playful' polar bears waiting at the border crossings.
In her defence, these polar bears were RIDICULOUSLY cute. They wrestled, they played with their toys - one would sumersault into the water, and the other would watch carefully, then timing it correctly, bellyflop *ontop* of his friend, sending them both spinning to the bottom admist giant waves and spashes. At one point, one of the polar bears put a bucket on his head while wrestling - the other polar bear decides this is a great idea and puts a bucket on his head too. Now we've got two semi-blinded polar bears wrestling with each other with buckets on their heads - flapping their giant paws, backing over each other, bouncing off of walls, crashing into the water - cue giant air bubbles of surprise - are you getting the sense how cute these bears were? If I thought one of these goofballs was going to show up at my door, I would never leave Canada.
BUT that's not what this post is about. As a canadian, my admittance ticket got me a free tour and a free skyride (its a special discount for Canadians - probably a thank you for their number one exhibit). On this tour, the tour guide, a well spoken, knowledgeable woman said the following: 'and isn't it great that the San Diego Zoo provides free parking!' and I thought about it, and I didn't think it was so great that they were encouraging everyone to drive cars - but I didn't say anything.
Then I thought it about it some more, and that I should have said something. That it's because people like me don't say stuff that the world is in the shape that its in - that if you're not part of the solution you are part of the problem, yada yada yada.
So the next morning I decide to write an email to the San Diego Zoo, saying that I thought it was inappropriate that an institution that prides itself on its conservationalism efforts, subsdizes cars (via free parking) over alternative transportation. I suggested that they should charge for parking, and use those extra funds towards encouraging alt. transportation.
I get back as pretty basic Customer Service reply: Thanks for you comments, we love it when our guests take an interest... hope to see you again soon at the zoo...' malarky. Him/her also informed me that the parking lot was owned by the city and as such they couldn't charge for it.
I was off to the Grand Canyon and didn't really think much of it until I got to Zion, and suddenly had a lot of time to think. At which point I realized that it didn't matter whether it was the Zoo's decision to charge for parking or not, what mattered was the effect - and the effect was that people who drove were getting a benefit, thereby encouraging that behaviour.
So I wrote back. Outlining that arguement - and suggesting that since they couldn't charge for parking, at least they should offer a similar incentive for those who came by alternative transportation. A five dollar discount or something.
I would like to suggest that the Zoo offset this [driver benefit] by offering a discount/benefit for those who come by bus or bicycle. Perhaps five dollars off admission price for those who produce a bicycle or a valid bus ticket.
Initially, I do not believe (based on the few bicycles I saw in the bike rack) that such a policy would have a significant impact on your admission dollars generated. In the alternative, if it was wildly successful in encouraging individuals to leave their cars at home, to the extent it was impacting those dollars - then it would be a great accomplishment for an organization like yours.
I concluded with
I understand that you may not be the person making these policy decisions. But if you agree in principle with subsidizing alternative transportation - that it is a 'good idea' in line with the Zoo's objectives in promoting sustainability, I would appreciate you forwarding this email to the individuals who are responsible.
I get back nothing.
About a week later I get back a reply that is almost identical to the first reply they sent me, but with out the parking information.
NOW I'm annoyed. But more than that, I'm intrigued.
Offering a discount to cyclists or public transportation riders is a total no-brainer! OBVIOUSLY any remotely green organization should be doing that! Plus it would be so easy to do! There is no reason (that I can think of, or that they have provided me) why they are NOT doing it. Other than the obvious that someone can't be bothered to make a decision to do it.
So I'm intrigued to find out exactly how hard it is to get a good idea implemented, for no reason other than - it's a good idea!. Stay tuned!
learning about american geography the hard way.
Those last fifty miles yesterday were a mistake. But the kind of mistake you don't realize you've made until it can't be fixed and there is nothing to do but put your head down and turn your feet.
For the last fifty miles, and for the next couple of hundred miles - I am in the Great Basin, WY. Defining characteristic? EXTRODINARILY WINDY. Yesterday's 50 miles started out fine, than deteriorated.
Hour one: 15 miles
hour two: 12 miles
Hour three: 10 miles
Hour four: 8 miles
Hour five: 5 miles.
(the wind just got worse and worse as the afternoon progressed. I couldn't hear anything because of its howling in my ears. Like, I was riding on a highway - couldn't hear traffic. I think this accounts for the large amount of roadkill I've seen on these highways (i stuck to the large shoulder). I was counting 5-10 carcasses a mile. Everything from snakes, to rodents, to birds, to deer.
At the point that you are cycling at five mph, you are pretty much just on a grim death march until the end. My personal litany in times like this is: 'Just keep turning the pedals. This is how the bike works. If you are turning the pedals, its working. Keep turning the pedals. This is how the bike works.' and 'No you are not allowed to get off your bike until you fall off it.'
At three miles left I tell myself: Its THREE MILES you could be dead and still cycle three miles. You aren't dead, so quit whinging!' (I have all sorts of sayings for different mileages)
Today has gone much better. On the advice of fellow tourers (who are all going the other way than me - I think it has something to do with the wind) I left at 6:45 am. Was in Rawlings by noon (60 miles). I have now met almost a dozen tourers. Including one guy who was bringing his dog. I look at her and my first question is: how much does she weigh? 50 lbs. She's an AWESOME dog though, so I can see how he couldn't leave her.
At the campground in Rawlings. Am not really looking forward to the next couple of hundred miles. But then Yellowstone! And people tell me it gets good around there.
For the last fifty miles, and for the next couple of hundred miles - I am in the Great Basin, WY. Defining characteristic? EXTRODINARILY WINDY. Yesterday's 50 miles started out fine, than deteriorated.
Hour one: 15 miles
hour two: 12 miles
Hour three: 10 miles
Hour four: 8 miles
Hour five: 5 miles.
(the wind just got worse and worse as the afternoon progressed. I couldn't hear anything because of its howling in my ears. Like, I was riding on a highway - couldn't hear traffic. I think this accounts for the large amount of roadkill I've seen on these highways (i stuck to the large shoulder). I was counting 5-10 carcasses a mile. Everything from snakes, to rodents, to birds, to deer.
At the point that you are cycling at five mph, you are pretty much just on a grim death march until the end. My personal litany in times like this is: 'Just keep turning the pedals. This is how the bike works. If you are turning the pedals, its working. Keep turning the pedals. This is how the bike works.' and 'No you are not allowed to get off your bike until you fall off it.'
At three miles left I tell myself: Its THREE MILES you could be dead and still cycle three miles. You aren't dead, so quit whinging!' (I have all sorts of sayings for different mileages)
Today has gone much better. On the advice of fellow tourers (who are all going the other way than me - I think it has something to do with the wind) I left at 6:45 am. Was in Rawlings by noon (60 miles). I have now met almost a dozen tourers. Including one guy who was bringing his dog. I look at her and my first question is: how much does she weigh? 50 lbs. She's an AWESOME dog though, so I can see how he couldn't leave her.
At the campground in Rawlings. Am not really looking forward to the next couple of hundred miles. But then Yellowstone! And people tell me it gets good around there.
Friday, July 11, 2008
why, it's almost fun!
View Larger Map
Colorado is so far turning out much better. Right now I'm in Walden, CO, 'moose-viewing capital of Colorado' for those of you who feel your moose-viewing needs have been unmet.
Its GREEN here. And there are RIVERS and other BODIES of water. SNOW on the mtn tops. Pine forests (absolutely ravaged by the pine-beetle through). I've seen fly-fisherpeople. I've seen SIX other bike tourers. (all going the opposite way than me), and I think I surprised the first two when I swooped down across the road, exclaiming 'you're touring! hello! how *are* you?' and then stood there grinning. They were dutch (with American flags for some reason - although also dutch flags. So hedging their bets?).
Drivers give you lots of space. Did 75 miles yesterday about (2000 feet of climbing -crossed the continental divide), about 45 miles so far today. I was going to try to get here (Walden) for a diner breakfast, wake up early and all that - but when I woke up at 5:00 am, i discovered a layer of frost over all my stuff, including my clothes that I had left out to dry. It turns out that as keen as I may be on cycling (and diner breakfasts), I draw the line at putting freezer-burned clothes on first thing in the morning. I went back to bed and waited for the sun to peak over the mtns (8:00 am) - et viola - half an hour later, my clothes were de-iced and dry.
The next town is 50 miles up the road. But I don't really have any other plans for today, so might go for it.
eta: the san diego zoo is beginning to annoy me... but i think that will have to be a rant for another time.
Wednesday, July 9, 2008
new phone number 425-591-2581
its one of those US pre paid ones. I'm only using it for the rest of the time i'm in the US. I probably won't be calling you unless I've got your number memorized b/c all the ones in my old phone have vanished.
UPDATE
- I am here in Denver, CO. YIPEEE
1)Yesterday rode 50-odd miles from Zion to St. George. 110 degrees, which wasn't even all that hot, compared to some of my previous days. Stayed at a hotel (only $40, couldn't be bothered to sort out camping). Plus clean at last! Showers! Nice cold showers!!! Was going to get a good night sleep before my long drive today, instead stayed up until 2:30 watching some sort of Deadliest Catch marathon. I think I was memorized by all that cold water. So much of it! So cold!
2) No cyclist ever needs to cycle the I-70. SO HAPPY TO BE IN CAR. That stretch of the road was the best argument I've ever seen for cars. Or teleporation. just Ugh.
3) Looking forward to cycling in the mountains. I think its going to feel like going home. Not alien, like the desert felt.
The first day of the desert (badlands whatever you want to call it) when I was driving out of San Diego, I stopped around noon and just stood outside my rental car. I was surrounded on all sides by endless sand dunes. The realizatoin hit me that *I* was probably the largest body of water for a significant distance. Right on the heels of this realization was a thought that every entity - living or not- in that desert was out to steal my water from me. Redistribute the wealth. The air felt like it was leaching water from my skin. I could picture all these desert creatures (tiny and large) suddenly sensing that I was there - this source of water, and slowly creeping up, surrounding me - it made the desert seem really hostile. So no, I didn't really like the desert. I had a few really nice moments, usually early early in the morning, just as the sun was peaking up over the horizon, with my cycling shadow self stretching miles across barren red lands. A sense of peace. But only very rarely. Usually you felt like you were racing the sun from the moment you turned the days' first pedal. And you were going to lose.
I asked Josh if he was going to do another bike tour. He said: Not in the desert.
I used to think I'd really enjoy living on Dune. Let me tell you: NOT ANYMORE!!!!!
Tomorrow: The third leg of TdeS begins!
UPDATE
- I am here in Denver, CO. YIPEEE
1)Yesterday rode 50-odd miles from Zion to St. George. 110 degrees, which wasn't even all that hot, compared to some of my previous days. Stayed at a hotel (only $40, couldn't be bothered to sort out camping). Plus clean at last! Showers! Nice cold showers!!! Was going to get a good night sleep before my long drive today, instead stayed up until 2:30 watching some sort of Deadliest Catch marathon. I think I was memorized by all that cold water. So much of it! So cold!
2) No cyclist ever needs to cycle the I-70. SO HAPPY TO BE IN CAR. That stretch of the road was the best argument I've ever seen for cars. Or teleporation. just Ugh.
3) Looking forward to cycling in the mountains. I think its going to feel like going home. Not alien, like the desert felt.
The first day of the desert (badlands whatever you want to call it) when I was driving out of San Diego, I stopped around noon and just stood outside my rental car. I was surrounded on all sides by endless sand dunes. The realizatoin hit me that *I* was probably the largest body of water for a significant distance. Right on the heels of this realization was a thought that every entity - living or not- in that desert was out to steal my water from me. Redistribute the wealth. The air felt like it was leaching water from my skin. I could picture all these desert creatures (tiny and large) suddenly sensing that I was there - this source of water, and slowly creeping up, surrounding me - it made the desert seem really hostile. So no, I didn't really like the desert. I had a few really nice moments, usually early early in the morning, just as the sun was peaking up over the horizon, with my cycling shadow self stretching miles across barren red lands. A sense of peace. But only very rarely. Usually you felt like you were racing the sun from the moment you turned the days' first pedal. And you were going to lose.
I asked Josh if he was going to do another bike tour. He said: Not in the desert.
I used to think I'd really enjoy living on Dune. Let me tell you: NOT ANYMORE!!!!!
Tomorrow: The third leg of TdeS begins!
Tuesday, July 8, 2008
Good things:
- THE TENT HAS ARRIVED!
- Have found a car to rent from St. George Ut to Denver, CO (took calling eight different rental car companies, of course it was the last one - never give up! never surrender!)
- I'm leaving Zion!! (Zion, we had some good times, but ultimately, you made me feel trapped in the relationship)
Not-so-good-thing
- the bike map people sent me the wrong maps! they don't even CONNECT. So now I have to find a new address for them to send the right ones to me, and try to time it correctly. I can not wait until all I have to do is ride my bike again.
- all this fussing around means I'm going to have to haul ass to make it from Denver to Jasper through the rockies by the beginning of August. Depending on when I actually get started, we may be talking Tour de France mileage. A challenge worthy of Merle!
eta: merle's my bike.
eta2: a josh quote:
We were sitting at a picnic table, both of us eating bananas with nutella, using sporks.
Me: Know what's great about camping? How you do things you'd never do at home.
Josh: hmmm. (looks at himself) I hope I start showering again though.
- THE TENT HAS ARRIVED!
- Have found a car to rent from St. George Ut to Denver, CO (took calling eight different rental car companies, of course it was the last one - never give up! never surrender!)
- I'm leaving Zion!! (Zion, we had some good times, but ultimately, you made me feel trapped in the relationship)
Not-so-good-thing
- the bike map people sent me the wrong maps! they don't even CONNECT. So now I have to find a new address for them to send the right ones to me, and try to time it correctly. I can not wait until all I have to do is ride my bike again.
- all this fussing around means I'm going to have to haul ass to make it from Denver to Jasper through the rockies by the beginning of August. Depending on when I actually get started, we may be talking Tour de France mileage. A challenge worthy of Merle!
eta: merle's my bike.
eta2: a josh quote:
We were sitting at a picnic table, both of us eating bananas with nutella, using sporks.
Me: Know what's great about camping? How you do things you'd never do at home.
Josh: hmmm. (looks at himself) I hope I start showering again though.
Monday, July 7, 2008
Happy birthday to me!
Yep! Its my 32nd birthday today! Born on the lucky double sevens of July 7th! I definitely can't complain about my luck to date. The year in review:
- spent a summer rowing with Claudia on Lake Windermere (I've ALWAYS wanted to spend some time rowing). Those day-breaks on the lake were amazing - with the dead flat water shrouded in a foot or two of mist that would slowly evaporate as the sun rose and our workout went on... and on ... :) (as a bonus, cycling in the rockies was pretty nice too)
- Spent December down in Ecuador learning Spanish and surfing and otherwise having a spectacular good time (except the decomposing tortoise incident).
- Spent a winter ski teaching some pretty fun and funny 5-6 year olds. ("Do you really have Santa's cell phone number?").
- had the best skiing of my LIFE in Fernie after it dumped three feet and my awesome and ridiculously understanding boss was like 'go skiing!'. I finally understood what is meant by bottomless powder - it's not really like skiing at all.
- Finally faced up to what I've really known since second summer of law school (coincidentally first time I tried to work as an actual lawyer) - that I'm not meant to be a lawyer.
- Started my bike tour in may. And you people pretty much know the rest :)
But my favourite thing about right now isn't what I've done in the last year, its that I have NO idea what I'm going to do next year! None! It could be anything! The mind boggles!!!!
Good things that have already happened today:
- had an awesome birthday latte ( I treated myself) at the local cafe. Even better is that they are showing the tour de france!! Spent 90 minutes watching the last part of a very gripping and exciting stage. If you are un(der)employed, I hope you are watching!!!!
In less great birthday news
- still no tent (but I think the campground host is taking pity on me and arranging it so I don't have to pay for camping - which at $16 a night is really nice.) How can the world have so many problems in it when there are so many nice people???
- My bike has a flat tire (HOW?????) and in trying to change it this morning, I discovered my pump is broken. Good news is I got a better pump for 6 dollars! (on sale from $35. I guess road bike pumps don't really sell in Zion.
- Having a fly that doesn't fit properly on your broken tent (and having no pegs to attach it to the ground) means that when the wind comes up your fly ballons like a spinnaker, flaps like a giant flightless bird, and creates a horrendous noise as your tent starts to elevate. I woke up disorientated and panicked early one windy morning thinking a helicopter was trying to land in my campsite (the campsite is large, my tent is small, it made sense at the time). Since then, I've just left my fly off. Other than waking up covered in a thin layer of red dust, its actually been a nice, cool(er) solution. Until yesterday when Monsoon season began in Zion National Park. I got back from my hike after a 30 minute deluge of rain to discover that my fly (having not been used for over a week) was just about the only thing dry, buried as it was under my soaked sleeping bag and thermal rest. Good news: Everything dries here in about 30 minutes.
ETA: oh and I promised Dennis I'd mention him in my blog. Dennis is a fiftish? gentleman who works in the park, who reminds me a bit of Morgan Freeman. He approached me, curious as to what my job was for the park (no doubt as it appears that I don't do anything, nor am I wearing a Ranger uniform). We got to discussing 'journaling' - he is trying to start an journal but is having trouble knowing what to put in it. I told him I put things I wanted to remember and things I didn't want to remember in mine.
- spent a summer rowing with Claudia on Lake Windermere (I've ALWAYS wanted to spend some time rowing). Those day-breaks on the lake were amazing - with the dead flat water shrouded in a foot or two of mist that would slowly evaporate as the sun rose and our workout went on... and on ... :) (as a bonus, cycling in the rockies was pretty nice too)
- Spent December down in Ecuador learning Spanish and surfing and otherwise having a spectacular good time (except the decomposing tortoise incident).
- Spent a winter ski teaching some pretty fun and funny 5-6 year olds. ("Do you really have Santa's cell phone number?").
- had the best skiing of my LIFE in Fernie after it dumped three feet and my awesome and ridiculously understanding boss was like 'go skiing!'. I finally understood what is meant by bottomless powder - it's not really like skiing at all.
- Finally faced up to what I've really known since second summer of law school (coincidentally first time I tried to work as an actual lawyer) - that I'm not meant to be a lawyer.
- Started my bike tour in may. And you people pretty much know the rest :)
But my favourite thing about right now isn't what I've done in the last year, its that I have NO idea what I'm going to do next year! None! It could be anything! The mind boggles!!!!
Good things that have already happened today:
- had an awesome birthday latte ( I treated myself) at the local cafe. Even better is that they are showing the tour de france!! Spent 90 minutes watching the last part of a very gripping and exciting stage. If you are un(der)employed, I hope you are watching!!!!
In less great birthday news
- still no tent (but I think the campground host is taking pity on me and arranging it so I don't have to pay for camping - which at $16 a night is really nice.) How can the world have so many problems in it when there are so many nice people???
- My bike has a flat tire (HOW?????) and in trying to change it this morning, I discovered my pump is broken. Good news is I got a better pump for 6 dollars! (on sale from $35. I guess road bike pumps don't really sell in Zion.
- Having a fly that doesn't fit properly on your broken tent (and having no pegs to attach it to the ground) means that when the wind comes up your fly ballons like a spinnaker, flaps like a giant flightless bird, and creates a horrendous noise as your tent starts to elevate. I woke up disorientated and panicked early one windy morning thinking a helicopter was trying to land in my campsite (the campsite is large, my tent is small, it made sense at the time). Since then, I've just left my fly off. Other than waking up covered in a thin layer of red dust, its actually been a nice, cool(er) solution. Until yesterday when Monsoon season began in Zion National Park. I got back from my hike after a 30 minute deluge of rain to discover that my fly (having not been used for over a week) was just about the only thing dry, buried as it was under my soaked sleeping bag and thermal rest. Good news: Everything dries here in about 30 minutes.
ETA: oh and I promised Dennis I'd mention him in my blog. Dennis is a fiftish? gentleman who works in the park, who reminds me a bit of Morgan Freeman. He approached me, curious as to what my job was for the park (no doubt as it appears that I don't do anything, nor am I wearing a Ranger uniform). We got to discussing 'journaling' - he is trying to start an journal but is having trouble knowing what to put in it. I told him I put things I wanted to remember and things I didn't want to remember in mine.
Saturday, July 5, 2008
unbelievable
i just got an email from MEC which better be a *mistake* saying that they JUST shipped my tent to TORONTO thankyouverymuch.
I am SILENTLY SCREAMING right now.
eta: after calling MEC, it turns out that the tent IS coming here (not Toronto) and that it wasn't shipped today, but nor was it shipped on the 30th. It was shipped on July 3. Post Office is closed tomorrow. The soonest I can hope for it will be Monday July 7. After speaking articulately and silencing my inner scream on the phone (it is not, the person on the phone's fault, after all) I got my shipping paid back to me, and a $50.00 gift card to MEC as compensation. Which, better than nothing.
Josh is leaving tomorrow. Its been fun having someone to hike and do things with again. (He's a much more ambitious hiker so I don't do everything he does, but it generally seems to work out).
I just keep on reminding myself that there are worse places to spend a week and a half than Zion National Park (a lot of places actually, including an office :) and that it is a good thing that I can now probably sub in for a Ranger if the necessity arose.
Ranger Activites I can do:
- Recognize the call of the Canyon Wren
- Identify a Peregrine Falcon (dives over 200 mph).
- Have seen the freakiest looking bug ever (straight out of Pan's Labyrinth). Massive, bright blue, with red wings. Apparently its a form of wasp (biggest wasp I've ever seen) and has one of the most painful stings in the insect world. "...immediate, excruciating pain that simply shuts down one's ability to do anything, except, perhaps, scream."
- Have done all significant hikes from the main canyon.
- Can identify all significant landmarks in the main canyon
- Know the geological and social history of Zion National Park.
So the point is, if you are going to be in Zion over the next three days and need a guide, I'm here!
I am SILENTLY SCREAMING right now.
eta: after calling MEC, it turns out that the tent IS coming here (not Toronto) and that it wasn't shipped today, but nor was it shipped on the 30th. It was shipped on July 3. Post Office is closed tomorrow. The soonest I can hope for it will be Monday July 7. After speaking articulately and silencing my inner scream on the phone (it is not, the person on the phone's fault, after all) I got my shipping paid back to me, and a $50.00 gift card to MEC as compensation. Which, better than nothing.
Josh is leaving tomorrow. Its been fun having someone to hike and do things with again. (He's a much more ambitious hiker so I don't do everything he does, but it generally seems to work out).
I just keep on reminding myself that there are worse places to spend a week and a half than Zion National Park (a lot of places actually, including an office :) and that it is a good thing that I can now probably sub in for a Ranger if the necessity arose.
Ranger Activites I can do:
- Recognize the call of the Canyon Wren
- Identify a Peregrine Falcon (dives over 200 mph).
- Have seen the freakiest looking bug ever (straight out of Pan's Labyrinth). Massive, bright blue, with red wings. Apparently its a form of wasp (biggest wasp I've ever seen) and has one of the most painful stings in the insect world. "...immediate, excruciating pain that simply shuts down one's ability to do anything, except, perhaps, scream."
- Have done all significant hikes from the main canyon.
- Can identify all significant landmarks in the main canyon
- Know the geological and social history of Zion National Park.
So the point is, if you are going to be in Zion over the next three days and need a guide, I'm here!
Thursday, July 3, 2008
Sill in Zion
I believe this is my fifth day in Zion (if you count the day I arrived)
Its beginning to feel a bit like home:
- The rangers no longer ask for my pass when I enter the park
- I've been shown the secret apricot tree
- Last night I was given the 'local's' discount at the cafe ('you are local, aren't you?')
- Just now the librarian asked if I was working in the park for the season. (I explained I was just squatting here until my new tent arrived).
As it has not arrived yet, the earliest I can hope for is the fifth. Last night was very very windy. Since all my pegs are being used to stabilize/brace the broken end of the tent, there is nothing securing the rest of it from the wind. I got up to go to the bathroom at two am, and when I came back, my tent had rotated 90 degrees, flipped to its side, and collapsed.
I WAS NOT PLEASED.
Its beginning to feel a bit like home:
- The rangers no longer ask for my pass when I enter the park
- I've been shown the secret apricot tree
- Last night I was given the 'local's' discount at the cafe ('you are local, aren't you?')
- Just now the librarian asked if I was working in the park for the season. (I explained I was just squatting here until my new tent arrived).
As it has not arrived yet, the earliest I can hope for is the fifth. Last night was very very windy. Since all my pegs are being used to stabilize/brace the broken end of the tent, there is nothing securing the rest of it from the wind. I got up to go to the bathroom at two am, and when I came back, my tent had rotated 90 degrees, flipped to its side, and collapsed.
I WAS NOT PLEASED.
Wednesday, July 2, 2008
my swiss hosts have moved on (however, I now have a place to stay ANYTIME I WANT in Switzerland. I was like 'cool'. Although i doubt I'll get to Switzerland in time to take them up on their offer. I've also been invited to Virginia by another set of my campground hosts - but I kind of feel these invitations have an unwritten expiration of two years.)
(The Virginia couple seem to want me to visit so they can find me a job).
In other news - Another touring cyclist has arrived at the campground - so now we're splitting a site. This is my third campsite in four nights? The way I've been skunking around the campground, dragging my broken tent after me from site to site, has made me feel like Zion's phantom of the Opera.
But back to the other cyclist!
His name is Josh, and this is his first tour too. Now, since I tried to bike from Phoenix to the Grand Canyon in June/July, I've decided it was insane. Josh's first tour? He biked from Yosemite to Zion through DEATH VALLEY. He said it was so hot that at night (no sleeping bag, no tent) he had to wake up every hour and spray himself with water from his camelback in order to stay cool enough to sleep. He started his day at 3:30 am.
Me: You win.
(To date, he's seen one other touring cyclist)
He's heading down towards the Grand Canyon then out to Monument Valley to New Mexico where his girlfriend is meeting him to drive him the rest of the way home (Oklahoma) .
Monument Valley is supposed to be its own special hell for a cyclist. I know because Dru (remember crazy Walmart Dru?) was obsessed with me cycling Monument Valley (because it was in Forrest Gump). She wanted me to do it EVEN though it was 100 miles out of the way, even though every bike store we went in to (three) all said : It's awful, don't do it.
Here is the conversation that we had in the Page bike shop.
Dru to Bike Store Guy (BSG): So, how do you get to Monument Valley?
BSG: You want to cycle Monument Valley?
Dru: She does (points at me)
Me: Not really. (we'd already been to two bike stores by this point)
BSG: We wouldn't recommend it. Its a desert.
Dru: But still.
BSG: Its a really dangerous road, too. There is nothing there.
Dru: But if you're going to anyway.
BSG: No one here cycles it at this time of year. There are sandstorms. Tremendous winds, dust everywhere. Temperatures at 120, road kill all over the place. And nothing, I mean, NOTHING, there.
(to me) Are you sure you want to cycle it?
Me: No, I don't want to do it.
Dru: How about you just tell us how to get there so we can see for ourselves?
( I had visions of Dru dropping me and my bike off at Monument Valley, then yelling 'Pedal!!' at me as she drove off - she was that persistent.)
Anyway. I wish Josh the best of luck, but for sure COUNT ME OUT. If there is one thing I've learned in the past two weeks, its when the local cyclists tell you 'don't do that' DON'T DO THAT.
eta: just read the wiki entry, and apparently, Airwolf - the supersonic helicopter from the 80s tv show - lives in Monument Valley. I'll have to tell Josh. It was also where the Griswald's car broke down in National Lampoon's Vacation. Still not enough to get me to bike there.
(The Virginia couple seem to want me to visit so they can find me a job).
In other news - Another touring cyclist has arrived at the campground - so now we're splitting a site. This is my third campsite in four nights? The way I've been skunking around the campground, dragging my broken tent after me from site to site, has made me feel like Zion's phantom of the Opera.
But back to the other cyclist!
His name is Josh, and this is his first tour too. Now, since I tried to bike from Phoenix to the Grand Canyon in June/July, I've decided it was insane. Josh's first tour? He biked from Yosemite to Zion through DEATH VALLEY. He said it was so hot that at night (no sleeping bag, no tent) he had to wake up every hour and spray himself with water from his camelback in order to stay cool enough to sleep. He started his day at 3:30 am.
Me: You win.
(To date, he's seen one other touring cyclist)
He's heading down towards the Grand Canyon then out to Monument Valley to New Mexico where his girlfriend is meeting him to drive him the rest of the way home (Oklahoma) .
Monument Valley is supposed to be its own special hell for a cyclist. I know because Dru (remember crazy Walmart Dru?) was obsessed with me cycling Monument Valley (because it was in Forrest Gump). She wanted me to do it EVEN though it was 100 miles out of the way, even though every bike store we went in to (three) all said : It's awful, don't do it.
Here is the conversation that we had in the Page bike shop.
Dru to Bike Store Guy (BSG): So, how do you get to Monument Valley?
BSG: You want to cycle Monument Valley?
Dru: She does (points at me)
Me: Not really. (we'd already been to two bike stores by this point)
BSG: We wouldn't recommend it. Its a desert.
Dru: But still.
BSG: Its a really dangerous road, too. There is nothing there.
Dru: But if you're going to anyway.
BSG: No one here cycles it at this time of year. There are sandstorms. Tremendous winds, dust everywhere. Temperatures at 120, road kill all over the place. And nothing, I mean, NOTHING, there.
(to me) Are you sure you want to cycle it?
Me: No, I don't want to do it.
Dru: How about you just tell us how to get there so we can see for ourselves?
( I had visions of Dru dropping me and my bike off at Monument Valley, then yelling 'Pedal!!' at me as she drove off - she was that persistent.)
Anyway. I wish Josh the best of luck, but for sure COUNT ME OUT. If there is one thing I've learned in the past two weeks, its when the local cyclists tell you 'don't do that' DON'T DO THAT.
eta: just read the wiki entry, and apparently, Airwolf - the supersonic helicopter from the 80s tv show - lives in Monument Valley. I'll have to tell Josh. It was also where the Griswald's car broke down in National Lampoon's Vacation. Still not enough to get me to bike there.
Tuesday, July 1, 2008
Happy Canada Day, Canada!
I feel like I should be doing something to celebrate Canada Day - but its not like I even have a flag (unlike a couple of cyclists we ran into outside of Santa Barbara - they pitched their tent and then stuck an American flag in the ground next to it. I found it very weird that someone would carry a FLAG in their own country when I don't even carry a hairbrush (ditched it in Eureka).
Update:
Zion- still spectacular. Hiked around the 'weeping rock' this morning.
Tent - still broken. New tent still en route.
Hair - is getting a bit out of control. washed it last night but there some significant knots that are defeating my 'finger-combing' technique.
Mood - optimistic (of course!)
Update:
Zion- still spectacular. Hiked around the 'weeping rock' this morning.
Tent - still broken. New tent still en route.
Hair - is getting a bit out of control. washed it last night but there some significant knots that are defeating my 'finger-combing' technique.
Mood - optimistic (of course!)
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