A lot of cycling.

RAWLINGS TO Jackson Hole(too many miles to count)

Left Rawlings Sunday at about 7:00. Little did I know it then, but I would do 125 miles that day.

Nice smooth early morning (non-windy) ridin) for 30 miles until I hit my first destination:
"In south-central wyoming, 125 miles of highway stretch from Casper south to Rawlings. Along the east side of the highway, just south of Lamont, is an oasis. It's called ...
GRANDMA'S CAFE - OPEN"
(from the menu).

A DINER BREAKFAST! My first in a long time. As I was the only customer, I sat chatting with Grandma for about an hour or so before heading on my way. Back on the bike I go - the scenery in Wyoming just improved the further north and west I went - and at this point I was getting 20 mile vistas of wyoming plains, herds of antelope galloping beside me. Pretty spectacular. Another 11 miles, hit another reststop (Muddy Gap), then another 20 miles, and I'm at my destination for the day. Jeffrey City. Population 2, as far as I could tell. The old guy who ran the cafe/bar/restaurant and his friend. I stopped in for a coke (I know! terrible! but I'm having so much trouble drinking enough that I've had to start drinking carbonated or else my stomach just feels awful). Anyway, the the two old men were glued to what I can safely say is the worst movie of all time. I only saw half an hour of it, but it had the actors talking to animatronic shark fins, and the fins listening! The plot was genetically engineered sharks escape into a lake. It had lines like 'It may sound like science fiction, but it's not - it's science fact!' complete with a little blonde girl with pigtails, and the two main scientists being a bickering divorced couple. IT WAS AGONIZINGLY terrible.

It was 1:30 pm, and I looked at that place and I thought : I can not spend another 7 hours of day light here. I will go crazy. There were headwinds, but not terrible headwinds. Looked at my map, saw that next reststop was 20 miles up the road - thought ok. I can do that. Three miles into that leg and I meet two oncoming tourers who tell me that there is a 'guy with a beard' 10 miles a head of me. Well! As Joe would say, you might as well have dangled a fresh peanut butter and banana sandwich in front of me! Someone else going in my direction? I told them good bye, and put on my time-trialling hat. Hands in the drops, helmet tucked as far into my handle bar bag as possible, and I was off. My hope was to catch him while he was still taking a break at Sweetwater (the next stop). I get to sweetwater - he's gone. Crap! the next town, Lander, is another 40 miles. I'm already at 85 miles for the day. But he's probably just a head of me, its only 3:30. I can do it. Back on the bike. Back to time trialling. 20 miles later I catch him.

It's Dave. A 22 year old guy taking six months before starting flight school with the US airforce. Just a really nice, solid, grounded guy. We trundle through the last 20 miles together and camp out at Lander - a cycling -friendly and otherwise really cool town - free camping in the city park. one of my fellow campers was practicing their flame-sword throwing. Was quite spectacular after dark.

Also in Lander, had one of the weirdest conversations I've had yet (which is saying a lot). In the morning as I'm waiting for Dave (he's one of those meticulous guys who takes forever to pack up) the 'alumiun can collecting guy' comes to the garbage bin near me. He says hello, I say hello, we chat a bit about cycling (my bike is with me) and then he goes:

Him: So, are you from Germany?
Me: What? No, Canadian.
Him. French Canadian?.
Me: No... English.
Him. huh. (pause) Lady, you have one strange accent.

then he walks off with his bags of aluminum cans. Was he messing with me? I have no idea!

But Lander = coolest town in Wyoming so far.

MONDAY - LANDER TO ASPEN MEADOWS (80-odd miles)
The next day, Dave talks me into heading off to this cyclist only camping spot 80-odd miles. Dave called ahead to the people who 'run' it (its basically their home) and the guy there (also Dave - Hostel-Dave) thinks its not a good idea to try to make it in one day. Cycling-Dave hangs up the phone and goes: I think we can make it. Actually what he says is, I'm pretty sure I can make, and I'm sure you can. Showing that despite knowing me for only about 4 hours, he'd already figured out how to manipulate me.

We did not get an early start. Didn't leave until maybe 8:30. Nonetheless the first 40 miles were nice. Gradual climbing, but as I said, scenically, Wyoming just kept on getting better. Green sands! These giant cubic stones looking like protruding molars. Really gorgeous and unique looking. Then we get to Crowheart. 27 miles to Dubois (the next town), 36 miles to the cycling hostel.

Me: Well Cycling-Dave, I think you're right. I think we will make it. The only thing that could cause us problems now is if the wind picks up.

WHOOSH

The wind picked up. Both of us in our easiest gear, staring at our feet, just plowing our way, weaving as the wind shoved us around. Dave is going at maybe 4 miles per hour, and I just can't. I just can't go that slow. I go in front, and within a mile can't see him anymore. On I go. Cursing the wind (why won't you stop???). What really ends up screwing me up is that my map indicates there is a gas station 6 miles from Dubois. So I lock onto that gas station with the mental ferocity of a rottweiler. I'm drinking my water knowing that there is this gas station, i'm doing my 'mile countdown' to the gas station. Well guess what? NO GAS STATION.

After another agonizing HOUR i finally hit town, where I have to cycle another mile before I reach a store I can buy something at. I am raging against the town - every town should have a mini-mart or something at its main entrances! !!!! I finally hit a pharmacy (of all things) and I stagger in. The woman at the counter looks at me and goes 'should I get you a glass of water or just call 9-1-1?'

which to be fair, I don't think i looked *that* bad.

It took me just over 3 hours to do that 25 miles. I wait in the town for about 75 minutes for Dave. He does not show up. I call Hostel-Dave, saying I'm still going to try to get there (Nine more miles! into the wind!). He asks where other dave is. I dunno, I tell him, I lost him in the wind. 15 mins later, still no sign of cycling-Dave, I head off. Hostel- Dave earns my gratitude for life for driving out and picking me up with still three miles left. SO HAPPY TO GET OUT OF THAT WIND.

Hostel-Dave and his wife Jo-An, basically open their home to cyclists coming through the area. Its not a hostel, its their home. Wonderful old wooden cabins to sleep in, a garage for bikes, they cook the cyclists dinner and breakfast (more than you could possibly eat). Its all incredible and incredibly unexpected. And so much history! hostel-Dave's family has been in the same town since 1893 or something. I really felt I got a glimpse of wyoming that i never would have staying in a campsite, or just cycling through.

Cycling Dave shows up there in about another hour. So he's been on his bike straight for almost 12 hours. The two of us greet each other as if we just unexpectedly survived a gruesome battle.

Me: "I'm sorry! I just had to leave you! I just couldn't go that slow! I would have died."
Him: No! I was glad you went! I was hoping you weren't waiting!"

After a nights sleep and endless: spaghetti, fruit, salad, yogurt, water, juice, blueberry pancakes, we head off again. Fortified for the days cycling which includes: 2,500 feet of climbing over 20 miles. After the climb, Dave and I split up, as he's a hurry to get to Yellowstone, and I want to see Jackson Hole. Down a 17 mile descent, across a grassy plan, with the Tetons, as otherworldy as a second moon, slowly rising in the distance.

I miss my campground and have to backtrack 8 miles (resulting in a day of 75 miles - which I did NOT NEED). I was not pleased. Campground was beautiful (nestled at the feet of the Tetons) and as I was cycling in the wrong direction I meet Allie (out for an evening ride) - a woman who has an engineering degree but has spent the last 8 years out here in Jackson Hole, skiing during the days, waitressing tables at night.
"I just love to ski" she tells me "I just love it. You know?"
I KNOW!

Camped out at Jenny Lake. Cycled the 15 miles or so this morning into Jackson Hole where I plan to spend the day in the library, in the coffee shop, and otherwise NOT RIDING MY BICYCLE until about 3:00 pm, when i'm heading back out 35 miles to a campsite. (there isn't really anywhere to stay in town that's inexpensive). Of course if there is wind, I am not going anywhere. I do not care. i can not mentally handle another 35 miles into the wind. I would make it as far as the Jackson Hole Airport, and I believe that would be the end of my trip.

Here's hoping the days become less epic. I am starting to get really tired.