Saturday did 107 miles from Avalanche Campground in Glacier National Park to Pincher Creek, AB
- Going-to-the-sun climb (west to east) is the greatest climb ever! Every cyclist should do it if they get the chance. Its not steep, so you can just spin up it for a couple of hours - AND 'climbing' speed is the perfect speed to take in the views. I started climbing at 7 am to avoid the heat and the cars and it was amazing. The sun coming up over the peaks, the waterfalls of melting snow spilling over rocks, no problems with traffic. Great. Sure, like all climbs you end up wishing it was a mile shorter a mile from the end, but over all - three thumbs up!
- the rest of the day. Ups and Downs. Nothing really remarkable until I crossed the cdn border and immediately got attacked by blackflies. ick. But Waterton National Park was great too. Then, coming up to Pincher Creek, I saw the worst thing a cyclist could see (i used to think it was the 'passing lane' signs until I saw the decapitated deer lying on the shoulder) BUT it was an entire field of windmills pointing in the direction I was going. I had to stop for five minutes to absorb how something so good (green energy, yey!) could cause me so much despair.
HOWEVER, for once FOR ONCE the gods were smiling on me! And for the last 17 miles, as I started crossing this expanse - THERE WAS NO WIND. I felt like Odysseus - finally being allowed home. Unfortuntely, proving that as flies to wanton boys are we to the gods, the next morning the wind was back full force, the windmills gustily spinning as I headed out with very low spirits. The 76 miles today to Fernie were pretty long miles.
Now that I have crossed Crows Nest Pass East to West, no one else needs to do it. Its up there with 'cycling across deserts' as an experience just best avoided. OF COURSE in one of the numerous gas stations I stop at, the locals tell me: 'windy? this is a calm day here in the pass' Whatever. I had to pedal down a 4-5% grade just to stop from being blown over! Pedaling downhill!!!!! That's just wrong. It felt like a sign of the apocalypse. I did eventually get through it, but I took my time. No 'historic point of interest' went unread, no visitor centre unvisted, no scenic lookout unviewed. It was perhaps the most educational 76 miles of my trip.
Finally I'd like to dedicate what's left on this post to my sister Julie who is on her trip to France and Italy. Julie doesn't like to talk to me about her vacation plans because she says I don't get excited enough and say things like "If all you are doing is sitting on a horse while it blindly follows the horse in front of it, then No, I don't see what's so exciting about trail riding through the Belize jungle."
Which gets her mad.
So I'm taking this opportunity to say how excited I am for your trip, Julie, and I hope all sorts of exciting Hepburn-esque adventures happen. Perhaps your suitcase will get swapped with a mysterious stranger's and hijinks ensue. Or you haplessly catch the wrong train, get invited to a formal diner and require the sage bellhop's aid in acquiring a dress!? Who knows! Things like that happen in Europe. Even if its just you and your friends hanging out sipping wine and chewing bread (the only two things I suspect you'll be able to afford :) than that still sounds like an awesome time and I'm happy and excited for you. MYLYBS.
ETA: tomorrow back across the border and then onto Seattle for the fourth and last leg of my trip.
ETA2: my phone doesn't work in canada. I am just cursed when it comes to cell phone. Maybe it will work when I get back to the States.
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