Not an art post. Instead of wandering aimlessly aroud art galleries, persuing further enlightment - today was spent locked in an epic struggle with the Argentinian banking system. Sisyphus and his rock would have had an exasperating day.

Problem: My debit cards work here, but due to criminally high withdrawal fees ($5) and inconvienent max withdrawal limits (Approx $100), there is basically a 5% tax on all money taken out of bank machine. This is both financially and mentally irritating.

But that's why I brought two (non-expired) credit cards on my trip. Granted I don't have pins for them, but as the guidebooks say 'just go into the branch'.

So today, with some larger expensese on the horizon (16 hour bus ride to Mendoza) I tried to do a cash advance on my credit card.

Good lord, I do not know how anyone can have a job in this country AND visit a bank. Rock concert lines at every teller. Some banks have the 'take a number' system. You can pick between 6 different categories of services and get the related number - a little electric sign displays the number and the teller servicing it. I picked J - category which seemed the most popular, then hedged my bets with two other categories - none of which I knew what they meant. I figured I'd just see which number came up first and talk to a person.

My J number was 1049. The current number being serviced? 803.

I observed for 45 minutes, and watched the J numbers creep up from 803 to 812. The other categories went up by less. Doing some quick math, 246 x 5mins / 60 mins. I was going to be waiting for a HELL OF A LONG TIME. Do people pick up a number and then come back in twenty hours? Like some inefficient appointment system?

There were other lines that didn't require numbers. For instance there was one line for people to hand over green marked paper to and get cash back. There was another line for people to hand over cash and get back a bag of coins back (hand over cash, *plonk* plastic bag of coins back). No signs anywhere as to why one line and not another. There was a line for pregnant women and women with small children.

After waiting in one of these smaller lines (I gave up on the numbers), I finally get a real person to ask my question too. They say 'we do not do cash advances.'
Me: Pardon?
Them: No - cash machine only.
Me: I don't have a pin.
Them: Cash machine only.
Me: Well where can I do a cash advance? Another line? Another bank?
Them: No. we do not do them.

Which, come'on. This is a BANK. You can't charge a credit card???? Rural banks in china can charge credit cards. The stores surrounding you can all charge credit cards - and yet an actual bank? cannot.

Them: This is Argentina. You are in Argentina. The banks in Argentina cannot
Me: Only your bank machines can?
Them: Yes. Correct.

Basically I don't believe them, but my belief or lack there of is of zero importance to them. They are not going to help me. Off to try bank #2. Wait in lines. Wait. Wait.
Them: machine only
Me: Any other bank?
Them: Maybe Banco National.

Great. Off to the nearest Banco National Branch. This branch has an information desk! Excellent. Only have to wait for ten minutes for this to be free. Ask my question.
Then: Yes we do them.
Me: Great!
Them: But not here. This branch downtown does it. Main branch.

I get them to write the address out for me [ ' 343 Bartolome Mitre'], crack out my map, proceed to walk for 90 minutes into the downtown core. Banks EVERYWHERE - water water but not a drop to drink - Find the main downtown branch (which is smaller than the previous one I was in but is on Bartolome street and has 343 in front of it), enter it with a fair amount of confidence. Wait 25 mins in a randomly selected line. Hopefully produce my credit card and my passport. "viola!"

Them: Ah yes. Use Machine.
Me: No pin.
Them: Well - we do it, but not here.

I pull out my scrap of paper with the address on it. ' 343 Bartolome Mitre'.
"Is this not here?"

Them: No.

They hand me a new scrap of paper with 'Bank of Plaza de Mayo 343 Bartolome Mitre Street'

Maybe there is an avenue and a street and I'm on the wrong one. Who knows? She tells me I'm really close.

I walk up to Plaza de Mayo, there are banks there, but none called 'Plazo de Mayo' So instead I walk in to the biggest bank I can find in the Plazo de Mayo. AND THERE ARE LINE UPS OUT THE DOOR.

I lose it at this point. I am not waiting in another line. I will western union my money to me before waiting in another line, I will stand in front of a cash machine and do ten individual transactions before waiting in another line. I approach a security guard (no line!) expecting to be ignored/dismissed.

From now on in, I'm only asking security guards. This guard pulled out his glasses, examined my peice of paper, took me by the arm, lead me out on to the street, and escourted me to 343 Bartolome Mitre Street. Which was very helpful, except it was the bank I had just come from.

Much head shaking and arm gesturing ensues. More security guards are called down. One speaks english. This security guard examines my peice of paper, takes me to another bank, tells me to sit in a seat while he gets to the 'bottom of this'. Fifteen minutes later he tells me : yes. It's settled. This is the right place.This bank will do it. Just wait here and he will help you.

FANTASTIC! I thank him excessively. He returns to his post in the two-banks ago bank.

Wait 15 minutes. Taking hope in all the prominient mastercard and visa signage everywhere. I wait, I get budded by a pregnant women, I wait some more. Finally my turn.

Him: Machines only.
me: WHAT?
Him: machines only . we do not do this for 2 years now.
Me: But - but
Him: machines only. Or Bank Piano. But they are the only one.
Me: just ... just ....well - can you write it out?

He writes it out. 'San martin 345' OFF I GO AGAIN. Its only three blocks, find Banco Piano. Wait another 45 minutes but DO INDEED GET MY BLOODY CASH ADVANCE.

Now I'm exhausted and need to recover.

On a somewhat arty note - I did find this neat painting of the argentinian banking system.


Look at the use of light!

;)