working on a new header!

Firenze!

2010-05-18T12:16:00.000-07:00

Today was a day of exhausting travelling, I love my skis. And all the skiing gear, but when you can only hobble/shuffle 30 feet at a time before dropping your bags in a hugh sigh of relief, blowing and rubbing on your numb fingers - well, it creates extra challenges.
FOR EXAMPLE.
After getting a lift from Joe and Tim FROM la grave TO Briancon, I then catch a bus
from Briancon to Oulx Italy.
From Oulx I catch a train to Milan.
I get off the train in Milan, track 2. I have 25 minutes to make my connection. No problem. I find the closet departure tv screen (does anyone else miss the 'flipping letters/numbers'? it just seemed more atmospheric than a flatscreen) - find my train, but no track is listed. I wait. I wait. Down to 15 mins, am about to hazard a spanish-french-english guess at Italian for 'where is the track for my train' "Donde ou es la TRACK por la trenne de mia?' when it appears. In 10 minutes, it informs me, my train is leaving from Track 15.

FIFTEEN

Anyone miss the part where I'm on track 2? Who makes these decisions? If its some sort of alogirthm it officially sucks! With an stangled yelp I'm off, half carrying, half dragging my bags, ALL THE WAY DOWN TRACK TWO, ALL THE WAY ACROSS TRACKS - 3, 4, 5 inch by me. I rally for 6,7, 8 (at least airports have trolleys!) and actually pass someone. 9,10,11 - the crowds are building - I don't have breath to speak even if I spoke italian - but my urgent, lurching, stuttering, heaving, hunchback-esque, ski bag swinging gait conveys something desperate and potentially dangerous (those bags have momentum!) , and people clear out of my way.
tracks 12.13.14
15!
I'm at the train, I make it to the first carriage where stands a very young, and very bored looking conductor. I wave my ticket at him, pointing at the train. He nods. I haul my bags in one at a time. There is no where to put them. They end up in the opposite non-boarding door well. He nods ok. Even though clearly - if that door opens - my bags are falling onto the track. I wave my ticket at him - "Are we sure?"
He looks at my ticket and NOW shakes his head. I'm on the right train, but the wrong carriage. My carriage is at the opposite end of the train. I look at him. I look at my bags. I makes the universal gesture for 'but can i leave my bags here or will some overzealous security guard come and blow them up?'

A brief look of alarm flits across his face, but he nods that I can leave them. I leap off the train, sprint for the end, manage to get to my carriage just as the whistle blows (I do love that they still blow the whistle). Spend the entire train ride wondering just how upset I'll be if infact my bags were no longer there when we reached Florence. Answer: If they were insured NOT UPSET AT ALL!
(Dear XXLs -- I'm just kidding - I could never quit you).
The bags were still there, which meant that I then had to pay 13 euros for a taxi to drive them 4 blocks to the hostel.

ART!
Tomorrow is the Uffizi (Go big or go home, as my cousin likes to say)
- a little research:
50-plus rooms and 1555 masterpieces
Uffizi means "offices"
It was built to house the Medici family's art collection. (A family, who among other notable money-focused achievements, are responsible for double entry booking for credits/debits)
When the last of the Medici died she bequeathed it to the city of Florence on the condition that 'none of the works ever leave florence" So I wonder if that means the works never travels? Like its a cool artistic curse or something?

For those of you who are not Room with a View empassionatas - there is murder! fainting! and a dashing rescue set in the Uffizi square (I predict none of the three will happen to me)

The art gallery has a who's who of renaissance artists - including - Michelangelo, Raphael, and da Vinci. I think tomorrow I am going to concentrate on them. I am honestly not a huge fan of the earlier byzantine era art (think flat, stylized, and halos) they alway feel so static and then weighed down with all the religious iconography. Just looking at them feels suffocating. [Plus - who wants to think of the Catholic Church when trying to admire great works of art? Its prescence in the art seems more tainting than sanctifying and I can't think about the catholic church for long before getting all angry at their hypocritical corruption, cover-ups of legal and moral crimes, and frankly dehumanizing view of women - grrrrrrrrr]

BUT my point - When you consider how much work came from church comissions, how much it drove the focus of art during the renaissance - it always makes me wonder what the artists would have created if they could have broken away from the influences of their bread and butter. Makes me appreciate gaudi's naturalism even more.

Portraits are definitely my thing. BUT i love seeing nature in a portrait. In the renaissance pieces the subjects - even when not holy or mythical - are almost godly in their perfection - the marble flawless- the skill divine. My favourite portraits, on the otherhand, are completely flawed. Of asynchronous faces and levels of wrinkles and ink, paint blotches and brush strokes gone awry (purposefully or not). The natural beauty of that. Life is a bunch of mistakes and second-guessed decisions and wrong turns. That's what portraits of people should show - and in those cracks there is space for the viewer.

Ok so two things I'm focusing on. Raphael and portraits. I think both Raphael and Rembrandt have self-portraits in the Uffizi - so I'm going to hunt them out.

On a somewhat related note. I've been enjoying this person's ballet photography.
It really seems to show the tensions? the contorsions? the unnaturalness? the effort? behind the flawless performance.

Off to watch La Dolce Vita for some more italian inspiration! (Yes I know - Rome, but still)

2010-05-18T12:14:00.000-07:00

wow its been a long time since my last post.
Short story (or in a hiku)

Went to La Grave
Skied
:)

back again

2009-07-25T19:32:00.000-07:00

Yes I know its been a while.
What's been going on with me?
- we had a storm a few days ago which brought some snow (not enough - never enough!) and have had two fun days of powder hunting. Winds picked up today, closing lifts so today was more of a mellow day.
- Speaking of mellow days - been working on my snowboarding when I can get my hands on some equipment. Always a fun challenge to pick up another sport. Today I mastered the intermediate poma (after three tries). I got a 'who-ho' from the liftee when I eventually made it past the first post.

To give a sense of the average day here.
Wake up at light which is 8 to 8:30. Stick my head out the door to suss out the weather. Clear skies? Cloudy? Windy? How cold?
If its post-storm day, clear skis, low wind - the rush is on. If its not any of those things - the kettle is casually put on for tea, breakfast (eggs sandwhiches/ poridge) is lolly-gagged over, and its not uncommon to go back to bed. Meanwhile the various occupents of the Corbus apartments are calling on each other or dropping by to re-confirm ski plans or make up new ones. Who is going where? Touring? Skins? Do the snowbaroders need snowshoes? Is anyone bringing ice-axes? Who is up for what intense hikes? Who just wants to mess around on-piste? Anyone heard if marte is open? What was the wind direction was last night?

Plans are made, and then from approx 10 to whenever - executed against. Some days we only take one chairlift up to the top, and then start hiking for three hours - doing only one or two runs a day. Somedays not even the chairlift.

Generally finish sometime around three if the weather remains good all day. Earlier if it turns bad. Then its back home to bake up a random assortment of food/leftovers, steal showers (our hot water tank can only handle one shower every two hours ), and nap.

Sometime around 6 people emerge from their siestas. Dinner plans start to be made. Which usually don't materialize until 9 or 10 at night. And hten of course - its the evening plans. Who is going out where? Las Lenas is a pretty small place and yet - this is always a key discussion. The winebar? The pool- bar? The clubs? Or is there an impromptu house party somewhere nearby (follow the noise).

People drift back home at all hours, fall into bed and get ready to start the next day. :)

And that in a nutshell, is a day in Las Lenas.

excellent day!

2009-07-13T13:33:00.000-07:00

Blue skies, a light dusting of snow yesterday, Marte running like a champ.
Highlight of today?
- after two 45 min boot packs ('I can do it, but you are going to have to wait for me') we (Ted, Chris, Dan and I) did the Banana chute off San Martin - which starts steep,mellows out a touch, gets steeper, and then chokes. Which means you have to point you skis and straightline through the narrow choke, then be able to somewhat control your speed once you exit into the bottom expanse (which was wide open). Luckily we had fantastic snow so it was pretty doable. But man, did you come out of it with a lot of speed.

Day before yesterday - did this massive 3 hour tour/hike to an amazing ridgeline full of perfect powder. It was alaskan-esq

Life here is about skiing, touring, skiing, eating, skiing, sleeping. Love it!

2009-07-09T19:56:00.003-07:00

Awesome awesome birthday – and so much else that has been going on. Although really just the skiing.

- Marte: Jose and I on first chair. 50 degree chutes that went on and on and on - hundreds of feet worth. Sluff coming down ontop of me which was both cool and unnerving.
- Skiing until my legs just died (seriously - I was at the point where I would have rather straightlined and crashed then try to turn my skis)

- Next day - Marte was open again. More exploring down chutes and faces with Ted and Chris (roommates)

THEN today, too windy for Marte, but a crew of us pretty randomly hooked up in the slack country and six of us – Tim, Mattias, Ted, Chris, and Dan and I toured up to the ‘Officina’ an area of more chutes, etc. including some pretty gorgeous boot packing straight up along ridge lines. I did none of the trail breaking and am still utterly exhausted. The guys did not help my ego by continously exclaiming how EASY it was being last. Almost all of them are six footer guys with long legs that can step up stuff I have to crawl up. (mattias, thank god - is not six foot and understands my pain)

It was all worth it before we even started down - but we picked the right angle on the face, and had gorgeous snow.

Wonderful wonderful couple of days. If the wind doesn't die down, if marte doesn't open - more touring tomorrow! So for now - BED!

2009-07-06T18:14:00.000-07:00

awesome awesome day today. Last two days its been storming here in Las Lenas, this morning it dawned clear - and the powder day was ON. Say about 1 and a half feet fresh.

Ted (roommate) flies past me on a first run, which is just NOT on, so I POINT my skis down a 200 foot face and straight line it. I'm so close with my skis - being comfortable really letting them run the way they are supposed to.

Anyway- awesome three runs off the quad chair then Volcano opens - and we move over and have an even more powder-y run down through the gully -Just like shooting womprats in Beggar's Canyon.

THEN after two runs - that's skied out - Marte's closed, so we start this rather epic boot pack up avalanche debris to access a face. 30 mins of suffering later we lay down the best lines anyone got today. Then we did again - but went even higher. Then I was DONE. Later people would ask - what did you do today - and I'd say - you know those lines on the main face?
;)

Tomorrow is my birthday and word is Marte is going to open.

MARTE

2009-07-03T18:36:00.001-07:00

So after that last optimisitc post, marte did not open. BUT IT DID OPEN TODAY.

There was a bit of a thing last night so most people in my place weren't up for the 9 am start. Headed out by myself and bump into Jose - the ex-ski patrol / guide who also had a feeling about marte opening.

Cue the waiting. Getting to the top of marte is a journey of three lifts, and patience. As Jose warned me : Be ready to be disappointed.

5 mins for the bottom poma to open. 30 mins for the next chairlift to open (winds already beginning to pick up). Then at least a 45 min wait at the bottom of marte- waiting for the ski patrol to give the go ahead. During this time a core group had formed - mostly gringos- and Jose gathered us together with a "who is here for the season? Now I tell you - be mean. People here get killed every year here and its because of the damn rookies skiing over our heads and causing avalanches. So you see someone - you yell at them, hit them, whatever. I almost hit someone last year who started skiing down ontop of my partner. We need to control it cause there is no one else to do it."

We got first chair :) The chair was open for approx 90 mins before it was shut down due to high winds, and in that time Jose and I managed to hit it twice.

First run - down a chute/coloir called mericioles that went on and on and on. Awesome views - non- stop, not particularly steep but long and long and endless sweeping turns in untracked snow. Dumps you out above the Volcano chair where a crowd of people had gathered, watching us ski it. :)

Second run - Jose 'knew this chute' and after carefully stepping over piles of rocks (my bases!) we enter it from the side and way steeper! Narrower - you actually had to ski it. Again so long. He let me go first this time and it was just awesome awesome fun. My sluff chasing me down 'don't stop' Jose had warned me - no where to exit until the bottom.

I had a good season at Revelstoke, worked on my skiing lots, but it did disappoint a little in these big lines with good snow. Good good day today!! Now must go buy Jose a beer :)

2009-06-30T18:37:00.000-07:00

Its 10:40 pm - I can hear the bombs going off as the patrol does avalanche control. It's snowed all day today - about 15 cm - plus wind loading. Tomorrow its supposed to clear and with it, Marte off-piste will open. Setting alarms!

Marte is *the chair* it's rated as one of , if not the best, lift in the world for the terrain it accesses. It spiders its way up to the top of Las Lenas, precariously balanced along the ridges, angled towers protected against avalanches by giant ship-brows of cement. If patrol doesn't bomb during the storms, they risk that when they do, the avalanche they trigger will decable the lift. Not from the snow knocking the chairs down, but the percussion effect.

"The Marte chair accesses more expert terrain than any other lift on this planet. No skier could ever find - let alone ski - all the possibilities. It defines extreme."

ps. Don't worry mom! being safe!

Skiing!

2009-06-29T14:42:00.001-07:00

Yes a post about skiing! Cause the skiing today was awesome.
For the last two days Las Lenas has been in a storm. Howling winds - zero visibility (yes I tried to ski anyway) then today woke up to see a sliver of blue beyong the clouds.
"Ted," I said. "I'm going skiing, I think its going to be a good day."

AND IT WAS IT WAS AWESOME

First we (Ted, Jason and Allison - jason and Allison are two aussie snowboarders living upstairs) drop off this side (right off the chairlift)- covering about 600 vertical feet on a consistent slope, untracked. Knee deep plus powder, smooth, light, my skis are sailing! Then get this - we do this about four more times before it starts getting tracked out. Just people here don't ski off-piste. And blue skies? Crystal blue! Gorgeous sun! Just one of those days that are so perfect.

Then they open another lift and basically -REPEAT - although here the snow was a bit heavier.

And the best news of all? they haven't even opened the main chair lift yet. Perhaps tomorrow. That's when its heading to a whole new level - couloirs, chutes, massive faces.

2009-06-27T07:22:00.000-07:00

Yesterday Las Lenas opened proper!
And on their first day they offer free skiing to everyone.
Which is an awesome idea. Because it honest to god brings out every single beginner skier in the Mendoza province

Sure this packs the beginner lifts, which is annoying because the beginner lifts are pretty much the only way to get to the rest of the resort BUT your long wait is more than rewarded in the pure spectacule of hundreds of beginner skiers skiing down (or trying to get up) the same beginner slope.

Skiers running into snowboarders running into skiers.
People going straight down the hill, straight across the hill. One gentleman quietly muttering 'meirde' under his breath while accelerating towards the lift line.

And the poma lift!
People couldn't get on it, and once they got on it they couldn't stay on it, and once they fell off it they couldn't get out of the way before the next person ran into them. So just pile ups - five skiers/snowboarders thick- as one would fall off, the next would haplessly run into them and fall, equipment limbs all tangled, and then a third and four person would helpfully throw themselves onto the mix until a liftee would take pity, stop the lift, run up, and sort it all out.

"the gay pogo stick from hell' was how one exasperated (although non-pc) snowboarder described the poma lift.

And the outfits!
One peices, jeans, massive sunglasses, no hats (definitely no helmets). Rear-entry boots galore. Skies from at least the 80s.

As for the actual skiing - needs a bit more snow to go off piste -we met up with Adam (runs a touring company out of Mendoza, used to film for Warren Miller Productions) who showed us around - but a bit too thin snowpack for my tastes) But we're all eyeing a storm that is supposed to be moving in tomorrow. Here hopes is comes.

Ted! the Roommate has shown up, and he's cool and awesome. Les keeps on trying to get me out on another tour and I' m like dude - the chair lifts are now running!!!!!!!

The place (apartment) is a bit of a disaster:
- fridge doesn't close
- lights burnt out
- shower clogged
- huge drafts

But whatever. Came here to ski afterall!

ps. just meet Yaya The Famous Mendoza Womanizer. Eh.
;)

eta: Yaya turned out to be a total sweetheart :)

2009-06-24T06:28:00.000-07:00

Today (well yesterday now) I
- slept in
- went skiing
- Moved into my apartment (finally)
- Baked cookies
- Cooked diner

So something that is always fun about going somewhere new is that no one knows you at all, you can be anyone you want. For instance, remember my resolution to do more cooking /baking? Well today (the day I’ve finally moved into my new apartment) I wanted to make the place seem homey, and thought if I made cookies I’d both warm the place up and make it smell nice .So I did .

I baked chocolate chip cookies. I would have made them from scratch except the grocery store here didn’t have brown sugar or chocolate chips. Which I assumed was pretty essential. So I bought a cookie mix. HOWEVER it was not a guaranteed hole-in-one because the gas stove I have has no temperature indicators. It has an off, and on, and an unmarked dial. BUT I guessed, kept an eye on the cookies and they turned out great. Then I went around and gave them to Jose and Les. Et voila. I bake.

THEN feeling on a roll, I head up to Les place for diner – where I proceed to cut up tomatoes, green peppers, onions, grate some cheese, fry up some eggs and make a pretty good scramble if I may say so myself. But see, Les doesn’t know I don’t cook – so when I got tired of grating cheese, I just said “I find it really easy to over-cheese eggs.” And stopped.

OR
“Well we could do omelettes – but in general when its this heavy on the vegetables – I prefer to just scramble it together.”

I didn’t know what to put in the pan so tossed in some olive oil - I didn’t measure it. I just sort of poured a bit into the pan. Then watched/listened to it sizzle. (I later tried to wash the dishes with olive oil which was less successful).

But anyway. Cooking/Baking success, and for the rest of the winter, I’m just going to pretend I’m an accomplished (or at least regular cook-er) and just cook decisively.

Also went ski touring again today. Started out with Les – but he was aiming for a peak – and there was no way I was going to make it that far. So instead I bailed earlier and headed down something that could possibly, charitably, be called a hill. Got like five turns in on super inconsistent conditions. But really, I’m just trying to get into shape. Plus another gorgeous gorgeous day. So no complaints.

And that was day three in Las Lenas.

2009-06-22T17:21:00.001-07:00

So – since last update
- Les and I got a ride with Lucino out of San Rafael to Las Lenas
- Get there to find out that my apartment isn’t ready. Spend a night in Les’ place, and now camping out in Jose’s place while I wait.
- Las Lenas is still officially closed – but opening this weekend.
- Snow snow everywhere
- Very weird to be right smack back in the middle of winter. Wearing layers non-stop, ice covered roads / walkways. Cold. Cold. Cold.
- Yesterday Les and I opened the Las Lenas backcountry.
- Las Lenas is in a valley – one side of the valley is the ski resort, the other is military lands (backcountry). Ohmygod was it tough for me. Two months of not doing very much exercise, plus the alititde, plus Les – who is training to be a guide and so spends ALL his time hiking/climbing/skiing. Les broke trail pretty much the entire way and I was still about ready to throw in the towel half way up.
I fell over at one point and lay there for 45 seconds just trying to summon the energy to brush the snow off my face.
- Ski-forded my first stream on the way up – balancing skis across the tops of rocks and stepping very very carefully (bases!)
- On the way back down we were almost there and so instead applied the brute force method and walked straight through it (we ended up at a different place at the river- couldn’t have skied across it). My liners are now absolutely soaked. Trying to dry them.
- But the scenery. This place is nuts on the scenery department. Just endless folds of mountains. You could ski a different line each day you are here and still not do half of them.
- It’s overwhelming, actually. The space, the mountains, the blue ski, the whiteness, the emptiness, the coldness, the sun.
Luckily human beings are good at adapting!

las lenas tomorrow!

2009-06-19T20:02:00.001-07:00

and snow!!!!!!!!!

i love it when a plan comes together!

2009-06-15T14:46:00.000-07:00

this was going to be a post about how a woman buying a coat, managed to bring the entire supermakert to a halt for 20 mins and my head almost exploded because I just don't do well in supermarkets. Supermarkets are not one of my skillsets.

It could be about how mendoza is the worst place to NOT break an ankle (there are moats, gaping holes, missing stairs! Nijinsky (died - schizophrenia), Nureyev (died - aids) and the russian ballet corps couldn't walk down these streets without tripping all over each other)

It's still about how there is still no snow.

It could even be about Iran and how I keep embaressing myself by tearing up over twitters ('allergies!').

[
friend (who sent me the #): it's like Les Miz, in a 140 characters or less!
me: and real!
]

But I think its going to be about my friend (Rosemary) who just did the craziest, scariest thing ever - and became a mom today.

An Ode to Lucy on her first day.

Congratulations.
You made it.
Only just got here, really
But I have to warn you
it's only getting started.
and you -
you are going to be very busy.

You've got :

Inches to grow
Words to learn

(that's the easy bit - then:)

Ideas to speak,
Character to build.

(and even)

Mistakes to make.

(sorry - but true)
(until you)

Lead by example
Follow with humility

and
(today and everyday)

live.

It may seem a lot,
that maybe you're a little small.
But I 'm not worried.
Cause you already got what you need most
They're my friends, so I can tell you
That they love better than most
and you best of all.

(Good old Stanley, pinch hitting until I have a better 'new baby - yey!' pic)

2009-06-13T13:57:00.000-07:00

not that I'm obsessive or anything - but I've been taking screenshots of the last 15 time I've checked the weather (snow) forecast for las lenas. First one on top. Just to give you a sense of the emotional rollercoaster I've been on:

expected snow in cms

sat morning ramblings ....

2009-06-13T08:09:00.000-07:00

last night, i was going to do an art night. I had this idea - that if movies could be re-booted (star trek, batman) why not art? So, like, take a famous work of art and ... re -boot it. (exactly what this meant - well that was the plan for the night). (The most astonishing thing about this idea is that I had it *before* i started drinking)

[not that it is all that original of an idea - I mean, art re-interprets/builds on past art all the time]

bu then there were these crazy swedes, and these bottles of red wine, and the plan kind of disintegrated.

Anyway - did not happen. Then this morning, work up to find a giant influx of backpackers to this previously quite sleepy hostel. In the giant bed/room shuffle that happened, there was something like 30 people and their luggage hanging out in the common room (myself included).

With time to kill, I decided that before I attempted to reboot renaissance art, perhaps I should actually study it.
Et voila. a more care-warn (almost 'chipped' )interpretation of Michelangelo's Pieta.

I'm not sure what my re-boot idea is.

When people say 'you travel alone?' I think yes. I do. Part of it is the logistical issues of finding people to travel with, but part of it is - Like Virginia's Woolf ' a room of one's own' - a person needs more than physical space to create. Even more important - its creating the mental space of one's own. When you travel alone, all your usual influences (good and bad) slowly fade, your socially-constructed history fades. You have more 'space'.

Why create? Cause its SO MUCH FUN!

[i once spent three days by myself on a beach doing the absolute bare minumun. Just sitting there watching the waves. Because I wanted to see what I would think about after three days of absolutely nothing. It turns out that I didn't think of much. But it was only three days.]

uh. have no idea where I was going with this post.

Michelangelo's Pieta. Just staggering.

My version is like - what it would look like after it had been dropped down a flight of stairs. How's that for a re-boot??!?!

;)

2009-06-11T18:30:00.000-07:00

It is tough to be a dog or a dog-lover in Argentina.

In Buenos Aires – its fine – sure there are strays, but they are crowded out by the number of well cared for dogs, bundled up in coats and booties, enthusiastically dragging their dogwalkers through the streets, chasing after balls and Frisbees in the dogparks. Buenos Aires has a North American approach to pet ownership (they prefer ‘European’).

(Buenos Aires dogs on their walk)

Outside of Buenos Aires, not so much. Here in Mendoza, there are a lot of strays. They join you on your walk, perfectly pacing you. Today, I was joined by a black lab mix, who was probably about a year old. Matted coat, but bright eyes, lolling tongue who followed me for ten blocks, waited with me at the lights, crossed with me, and continued with me up towards the nearby park. When they do this – they are so well behaved it is heart breaking. When you come out of stores, they'll be patiently sitting there, waiting.

I refused to make eye contact. Refused to speak to him. Absolutely ignored him. He followed me anyway.

I’m walking next to the park (between the park and a busy road), Felix at my heels, tail wagging, when suddenly there is a blast of barking. To my left, 20 feet away, a pack of approx 10 dogs erupt from the underbush, charging towards me. No rotweillers, no dobermans, no german shepherds, nothing really *big*. I think: well at least my shots are all up to date. Felix crowds my legs at the exact moment I realize they aren’t after me, they are after him.

Sure enough a terrier-cross nips him on the rump, he yelps, then he’s bitten again as they drive him out onto the street. There is this horrible moment as he bolts into the heavy two-lane traffic, and there are cars swerving, honking, and I’m absolutely sure he’s going to be hit. He’s running back and forth between cars, until he finally makes it to the other side.

The other dogs immediately disperse- mission accomplished.

I think: he was shadowing me in the hopes that I would provide him safe passage. That I would have yelled at those dogs. Or somehow protected him (instead I almost watched him get killed).

But its so hard. You can’t rescue all of the dogs, you can’t even rescue one – trying to get a dog out of these countries is harder than getting them in to Canada (I know, cause I tried to adopt one from Ecuador, and the paperwork and time involved.) You would think I was trying to export some valuable ancient artifact out of the country - how difficult they made it. They should be giving these dogs away.

Yesterday, in that same park, I had to step around a dead Doberman just lying on the sidewalk. I don’t know if it had chocked on something, or if it had a massive tumour that had finally suffocated it, but it had something the shape of a beer can lodged in its distended throat.

And then today, walking back home, there was an older german shepherd – trying to stand up. It looked like it had a stroke. Bent almost 90 degrees, half his body no longer working properly. Hit by a car? Who knows? It could barely walk.

Anyway. Sorry for the gloomy post. But its definitely one of the harder things about traveling for me. At least its not a kid, I guess.

Some dog poetry and sketch. i did this so long ago - i can't even remember who it was for. maybe it was for me!

my - restaurant in the wall

2009-06-11T10:58:00.002-07:00

it's just a sketch - so I'm not going to disect it & my bizarre perspective/shading choices. Although my favourite bit? is how the bottles themselves look under the influence.

help for the food-ignorant

2009-06-10T16:48:00.000-07:00

This is a post about food [what it isn't is a post about snow ... :( ] My understanding of the las lenas grocery store situation is that there is a grocery store, in the sense that a well-stocked 7-11 is a grocery store.

Now I am one of the few people over the age of eight who would be fine with 3 months of grazing through the isles of a 7-11 - as generally I am pretty basic and flexible - bread? peanut butter? Hello lunch! there's a toaster? breakfast! Add a banana and a bottle of wine? Dinner! (and yes, I'm sure argentinian 7-11s have wine).

I mean I basically ate couscous, tuna, and cliff bars for three months on my bike trip.

Its not that I don't like food that requres more time & energy. I do ! But I also like food that doesn't. So its a toss up.

But I'm tempted to change my spots. make this the winter where I overturn my apathy and laziness and embrace cooking/baking.

So far my list of staples is:
- oatmeal
- pasta
- rice (brown)
- brown sugar
- white sugar
- all purpose flour
- yeast (for making bread of course! ha ha ha - i cant even write that with a straight face)
- a hunking block of cheese
- choclate chips
- vanilla?
- salt
- beans (chick peas, garbanzo beans, black beans, lima beans, kidney beans, soy beans)
- nuts (almonds, walnuts)
- raisons
- cranberries
- soup

Things that don't make sense to buy bulk ahead of time
-eggs
-fresh vegetables
- milk
- butter
- meats
- fruits (lately I've been eating oranges non-stop. No fear of scurvy here.)

Anything obvious I'm missing?

FINALLY

2009-06-09T15:32:00.001-07:00

No, not snow yet -but the hope of snow

Now lets hope that moves up as the days pass.

2009-06-07T16:49:00.000-07:00

i warn you. I've had a glass of wine (or two) - i tried to order a glass but then got back this little bottle. it's good :)

Right now I'm updating from a little restaurant on the main strip of mendoza (wine capital of Argentina).
- food in Argentina is taken seriously. At even the cheapiest diner you are likely to have your servers wearing bow ties, and *serving* you your food.
- I'm at this little classy restaurant-in-the-wall (maybe I"ll try to sketch it) beause earlier today I was walking down the street, saw a menu posted in a window, and I had barely even altered my path to get close enough to read it when the door flies open and out pops this little rotund man in a tuxedo vest.
- Menu? English menu? we have coffee, we have food! tell me what are you looking for?
[Since i perfer to be invisible unless I wish to be noticed, this totally flustered me. I *blushed* and stammered and made faces]
But he was so endearing, that I when I told him I was just looking, I also said 'and I'll come back' and asked him his hours.
- anytime! comeback anytime!
- When I walked in this evening he gave me this massive grin. So I'm glad I kept my word.

The food was pretty good too. and the wi-fi nice. the music is sirius satellite. The same channel as when I sat in my friend Paula's kitchen, working on her morning sun-drenched table, cup of tea cooling beside me.

- eeeeeee i am so lucky- in my friends, family, opportunities and freedoms. must try to be a better person!

altitude post

2009-06-07T07:31:00.000-07:00

As someone who definitely feels altitude - here is my comparison

Revelstoke (bottom)= 512m
Mendoza = 760m
Boulder, CO = 1650m
Sherman's Pass, WA = 1699m
Flagstaff, AZ = 2142m (somewhere about where I start noticing altitude - in terms of performance)
Revelstoke (top)=2225m
Las Lenas (bottom) = 2240m
Grand Canyon (North Rim) = 2438m
Las Lenas (mid) = 2835m
Las Lenas (top) = 3430m
Lhasa, Tibet = 3658 m (sick! but got better .. )
Everest Base Camp (Tibet side) = 5208 metres

eh. should be ok. The first two weeks - probably will find the top of Las Lenas a bit tough.

eta: Oh - made it to Mendoza after a terrific 14 hour-ish bus ride. I paid the extra 5 dollars or so for the 'suite' class and it was excellent. Chair into bed. Lots of space. Heaven! AND still have all my stuff! Only one more leg to go - to Las Lenas.

Oh but still no snow. COM'ON SNOW!

2009-06-06T08:56:00.001-07:00

heading up to Mendoza tonight on the overnight bus. Hoping that *I* am the missing ingredient that will bring the snow.

COM'ON SNOW!!!!!

Eva Peron

2009-06-05T16:49:00.000-07:00

Until I was uhm… 22 - I used to say ‘I believe in equality for women, but no – I am not a feminist.” I figured, I’m a girl, I’m a geek, I’m somewhat *odd* – I’m fighting battles on enough fronts as it is. The feminists with their poetry, their marches, and their murky agendas could do without me.

Then I looked up the *definition* of feminism, discovered it was *equality* and was like ‘damnit! – I am a feminist.”

I then become a bit of an annoyance to family members and certain guy friends as I’d demand ‘are you a feminist?’ and if they said no, or more usually ‘I don’t know’ – I’d respond: ‘ oh so you don’t believe in equality? Then you can stand over there with your good friend HITLER’

Which is to say, I don’t feel like I organically came to feminism as much as it was foisted upon my aggreived shoulders – feminism is equality? Really? That’s it? This still requires a movement? I have to explicitly opt into equality? How *dumb*. Who are these non-feminists and why aren’t they in jail?

ALL OF THIS is a long way to say, Eva Peron, loved by the feminist movement, wasn’t really on my radar when I arrived in Buenos Aires. Sure I was vaguely aware of her thanks to my sisters taste in musicals (I can warble out ‘Don’t cry for me Argentina’ with the worst of them’) , but it took over ten days before I got around to the Eva Peron museum or learning anything about her life.

The first thing I learned was that she died at 33. The first thing I thought was: man, I’ve got to get going on my life and do something.

Bare facts:

- born out of wedlock in 1919 (at a time when society discriminated against illegitimate children), although it was totally accepted/ encouraged that a man would have mistresses. (LOGIC FAIL)

- age 15 to 25 ish rose to some status/success in the entertainment industry

- age 25 meet Juan Peron at a charity benefit

- age 26 married Juan

- age 27 Juan Peron is elected president (he was 49) - his first wife died of cancer, Eva was second, his third became his V-P and was later President after his death. Seems like a stand-up guy – too bad at age 58 he took a 14 year old mistress. Not to mention that he thought Mussolini was one of the greatest men of the century, and set his countries policy to harbour Nazi war criminals,

- Nonetheless –it was he that allowed her to sit and attend various meeting, who listened to her, who publicly supported her in a society that disapproved of her influence. Hats off to those that support logically correct/beneficial yet unpopular causes. (Although should be noted, it was hardly without benefit to himself – for while he may have been receiving the unwanted disapproval of his peers,

- Eva, by hook or by crook, was exploiting/ publicizing her humble origins, her delicate appearance, emphasising her ‘Virgin Mary’ parallels (a woman with zero sex-appeal, was a common descriptor) to gain massive support of the Argentina ‘Humbles’ or the poor working class. They adored her, nicknaming her their ‘little eva’ or Evita.

- Over the 6 years of Juan’s presidency (and through his arrest and subsequent release at the peoples demand) she became powerful in trade unions (on behalf of the labourers and their rights), championed woman’s right to vote, set up institutions for orphans and the elderly.

- Also: potentially was funnelling funds away from all these causes into a swiss bank account (Roger Ebert thinks so).

- Nominated for Vice-presidency which she had to decline due to her failing health (cervical cancer – drs hid her condition from her – one of the first recipients of chemotherapy).

- In order to be able to properly stand and wave from the campaign car, she had a special contraption built to hold her up, hidden under her coat and dress.

- At age 33 – Congress gave her the title : Spiritual Leader of the Nation.

- Then she died.

- Her body was embalmed and put on display while waiting for the monument to be finished. However, the gov’t was overthrown in a military coup, Juan fleed, and Evita’s body disappeared for 20 years. (Secretly buried under a false name in Italy).

- Eventually tracked down, returned to Argentina where it was buried in La Recoleta Cementary in her family’s tomb.

- The military gov’t , determined not to have any more disappearances of her body (fearing that a missing body = reappearance of the myth) took every measure to secure the body – it is said that her tomb could withstand a nuclear attack.

And what is her myth?

Latin American myths are more resistant than they seem to be. Not even the mass exodus of the Cuban raft people or the rapid decomposition and isolation of Fidel Castro's regime have eroded the triumphal myth of Ché Guevara, which remains alive in the dreams of thousands of young people in Latin America, Africa and Europe. Ché as well as Evita symbolize certain naive, but effective, beliefs: the hope for a better world; a life sacrificed on the altar of the disinherited, the humiliated, the poor of the earth. They are myths which somehow reproduce the image of Christ

Ironically, Eva Peron didn’t consider herself a feminist. She also had strong connections to Nazism.

I’m just saying.

;)

la recoleta cementary

2009-06-04T12:45:00.000-07:00

"rest in peace" greets the visitor entering; "we wait for god" as they leave.

La Recoleta is the cementary for the who's who of Buenos Aires. Presidents are buried there, writers, Evita, newspaper barons, Che Guevara's family (although not Che - whose remains rest in Cuba)

Its a tiny city of the dead. Little stone houses lined up in streets. Not dissimilar to the houses competing with each other in the wealthy neighbourhood the cementary resides in. With doors, windows, skylights, and statutes. Elaborate carvings, gleaming marble.

I meet up with a tour, found the guide more interesting than any of the tombs, but managed to learn a thing or two anyway.

But first the guide! words do not do her justice, a tiny, hyperactive slightly hunched woman, with an amazing voice, flailing arms, facial expressions of muppet! a mixed-british accent with such a range - who 'is always hanging arounding the cementary so if you come back say hi'.

She even walked like a muppet!

an attempt!

She spoke of each tomb with an endearing and contemporary fondness, like they were all her wacky relatives.

But back to the graveyard. A Peron post is probably coming soon, so I'll just focus on the recoleta and ignore its most famous occupent (Eva Peron)

It has its ghosts - of a girl who was entombed alive on her 19th birthday after being falsely pronounced dead and buried- her coffin shuffled across her tomb as testement to her futile efforts to escape. It has numerous wealthy families - including one who buried their maid next to their tomb. Hands that went missing from corpses (an italian vandetta? thumbprints for secret swiss bank account?), victims of political assasinations, a girl who died when buried in an avalanche on her honeymoon (in her hotel bed!), a dedicated caretaker of la Recoleta who saved up all his money, bought a plot, commissioned a statute (of himself) from France - waited until it was delievered, and then, rumour has it, was so keen to complete - killed himself. It is an Argentinian Ghastly Crumb Tinies

Not all the tombs are in nice condition. A lot are falling to peices, coffins sliding out, weeds overrunning, statues slanting sideways. But its like a dense compilation of *life* - cause of course what is interesting about about a bunch of dead people but the lives they lived?

Except of course, the bizarre, unepected ways that they ended.

:)

As for me, still in Buenos Aires, and really? Not in a big hurry to get anywhere else. Which is a good thing because this city has its own schedule. Yesterday had breakfast at 1:00 pm. Which is a first ever for me. The lady next to me was on her first (maybe!) glass of wine for the day.

eta: another not great but hmmm.... not totally unsuccessful attempt at my degas copy.

Practising my belief that the only thing better than one photoshop effect

2009-06-04T07:07:00.000-07:00

is four!!!

2009-06-03T15:51:00.000-07:00

Mendoza plans are being pushed out again - was originally leaving tomorrow, now maybe Sat. So far there is no snow in Las Lenas so uncertain whether the resort will even be open by the 12th. I could be panicking about what this implies about the upcoming season but just don't feel like it. I'm here. I'm having a good time. Awesome snow conditions will be awesome, but srsly - where's the challenge in bottomless powder anyway?
;)

[Plan B involves finding an Argentian Polo ranch to be a groom at in exchange for lessons, Plan C involes a bicycle, Tierra Del Fuego, Anchorage, Alaska, and a lot of pedaling]

Speaking of Las Lenas, I've been in contact with the guy who is renting out the seasonal apartments. He's like 'yeah when you get to Mendoza you should hook up with the others - the las lenas crew.'

Yey! there's a crew! excellent! it sounds so real! Of course at this point the 'seasonal crew' seems to be the half dozen or so people in the apartments. Hundreds of people go to revelstoke for the season - SIX go to Las Lenas? Maybe 12? There must be more right? Well - call me intrigued if nothing else.

Oh but he ends his email with this:

I warn you, Yaya [one of the Las Lenas crew] is a famous Mendoza womanizer, be careful, hahahaha

which cracks me up, but how to respond?
Thanks for the heads up? Sounds fun?

I think this yaya is the same guy who when I was trying to find a place in LL offered to share his room with me for a discout. ["Think about it - it's a lot of money. Besos!"]

hmm... Maybe I should take a page from a woman I met in Revelstoke, who I barely knew but admired her ability to be technically friendly without actually being friendly - and reply with the non-committal, positive, yet subtly dismissive:

'Cute!'

What else is going on ... the hostel has turned over - a new bunch of people so at least the Poutine nickname has died. They seem to be mostly at the end of their travels, so we all got together last night and they shared some absolute HORROR south america stories. The girl who got robbed between the airport and the hostel, the airport bus that got held up and emptied, one woman's atm card had been stolen and accounts emptied (even without the pin! something about the mafia). And of course the guy who got kidnapped in Peru.Since I'm flying out of Lima, Peru, I figure I should get a hold of which city that happened in and check it out. (JUST KIDDING MOM!!Of course I'm being totally safe!!!)

Bye!

eta: success! I'm at a coffee shop, ordered a 'cappucino' and guess what just arrived? The mythical latte!

2009-06-01T14:05:00.000-07:00

Not an art post. Instead of wandering aimlessly aroud art galleries, persuing further enlightment - today was spent locked in an epic struggle with the Argentinian banking system. Sisyphus and his rock would have had an exasperating day.

Problem: My debit cards work here, but due to criminally high withdrawal fees ($5) and inconvienent max withdrawal limits (Approx $100), there is basically a 5% tax on all money taken out of bank machine. This is both financially and mentally irritating.

But that's why I brought two (non-expired) credit cards on my trip. Granted I don't have pins for them, but as the guidebooks say 'just go into the branch'.

So today, with some larger expensese on the horizon (16 hour bus ride to Mendoza) I tried to do a cash advance on my credit card.

Good lord, I do not know how anyone can have a job in this country AND visit a bank. Rock concert lines at every teller. Some banks have the 'take a number' system. You can pick between 6 different categories of services and get the related number - a little electric sign displays the number and the teller servicing it. I picked J - category which seemed the most popular, then hedged my bets with two other categories - none of which I knew what they meant. I figured I'd just see which number came up first and talk to a person.

My J number was 1049. The current number being serviced? 803.

I observed for 45 minutes, and watched the J numbers creep up from 803 to 812. The other categories went up by less. Doing some quick math, 246 x 5mins / 60 mins. I was going to be waiting for a HELL OF A LONG TIME. Do people pick up a number and then come back in twenty hours? Like some inefficient appointment system?

There were other lines that didn't require numbers. For instance there was one line for people to hand over green marked paper to and get cash back. There was another line for people to hand over cash and get back a bag of coins back (hand over cash, *plonk* plastic bag of coins back). No signs anywhere as to why one line and not another. There was a line for pregnant women and women with small children.

After waiting in one of these smaller lines (I gave up on the numbers), I finally get a real person to ask my question too. They say 'we do not do cash advances.'
Me: Pardon?
Them: No - cash machine only.
Me: I don't have a pin.
Them: Cash machine only.
Me: Well where can I do a cash advance? Another line? Another bank?
Them: No. we do not do them.

Which, come'on. This is a BANK. You can't charge a credit card???? Rural banks in china can charge credit cards. The stores surrounding you can all charge credit cards - and yet an actual bank? cannot.

Them: This is Argentina. You are in Argentina. The banks in Argentina cannot
Me: Only your bank machines can?
Them: Yes. Correct.

Basically I don't believe them, but my belief or lack there of is of zero importance to them. They are not going to help me. Off to try bank #2. Wait in lines. Wait. Wait.
Them: machine only
Me: Any other bank?
Them: Maybe Banco National.

Great. Off to the nearest Banco National Branch. This branch has an information desk! Excellent. Only have to wait for ten minutes for this to be free. Ask my question.
Then: Yes we do them.
Me: Great!
Them: But not here. This branch downtown does it. Main branch.

I get them to write the address out for me [ ' 343 Bartolome Mitre'], crack out my map, proceed to walk for 90 minutes into the downtown core. Banks EVERYWHERE - water water but not a drop to drink - Find the main downtown branch (which is smaller than the previous one I was in but is on Bartolome street and has 343 in front of it), enter it with a fair amount of confidence. Wait 25 mins in a randomly selected line. Hopefully produce my credit card and my passport. "viola!"

Them: Ah yes. Use Machine.
Me: No pin.
Them: Well - we do it, but not here.

I pull out my scrap of paper with the address on it. ' 343 Bartolome Mitre'.
"Is this not here?"

Them: No.

They hand me a new scrap of paper with 'Bank of Plaza de Mayo 343 Bartolome Mitre Street'

Maybe there is an avenue and a street and I'm on the wrong one. Who knows? She tells me I'm really close.

I walk up to Plaza de Mayo, there are banks there, but none called 'Plazo de Mayo' So instead I walk in to the biggest bank I can find in the Plazo de Mayo. AND THERE ARE LINE UPS OUT THE DOOR.

I lose it at this point. I am not waiting in another line. I will western union my money to me before waiting in another line, I will stand in front of a cash machine and do ten individual transactions before waiting in another line. I approach a security guard (no line!) expecting to be ignored/dismissed.

From now on in, I'm only asking security guards. This guard pulled out his glasses, examined my peice of paper, took me by the arm, lead me out on to the street, and escourted me to 343 Bartolome Mitre Street. Which was very helpful, except it was the bank I had just come from.

Much head shaking and arm gesturing ensues. More security guards are called down. One speaks english. This security guard examines my peice of paper, takes me to another bank, tells me to sit in a seat while he gets to the 'bottom of this'. Fifteen minutes later he tells me : yes. It's settled. This is the right place.This bank will do it. Just wait here and he will help you.

FANTASTIC! I thank him excessively. He returns to his post in the two-banks ago bank.

Wait 15 minutes. Taking hope in all the prominient mastercard and visa signage everywhere. I wait, I get budded by a pregnant women, I wait some more. Finally my turn.

Him: Machines only.
me: WHAT?
Him: machines only . we do not do this for 2 years now.
Me: But - but
Him: machines only. Or Bank Piano. But they are the only one.
Me: just ... just ....well - can you write it out?

He writes it out. 'San martin 345' OFF I GO AGAIN. Its only three blocks, find Banco Piano. Wait another 45 minutes but DO INDEED GET MY BLOODY CASH ADVANCE.

Now I'm exhausted and need to recover.

On a somewhat arty note - I did find this neat painting of the argentinian banking system.

Look at the use of light!

;)

Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes

2009-05-31T13:09:00.000-07:00

So both yesterday and today, I spent a few hours at the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes.
Warning that the rest of this post will not be interesting to someone not interested in art. And even then its probably going to be rough trip.

My personal theme was light. For whatever reason I walked into that museum, looked at two peices of work, and was like ' wait a minute - it's all about light! I get it!' That became my focus - every painting/image was evaluated in terms of light. How light is used to give shape, to set mood, to focus.

My favourite van gogh there was Moulin de la Galette. This picture of it sucks - but in the museum - the blue sky practically hums with energy and lightness, giving it this wonderful whimisical, airy feeling. I also really like the composition, with the stairs almost being the third wind vane.

I also spent some time looking at Monet's Le berge de La Seine 's - and his approach to light here. Monet is generally seen as being *the impressionist* of the impressionist (well, at least by his fans) influencing the others more than he was influenced by them. But his treatment of light here is a scattering of it. Its bouncing and reflecting off everything - leaves, grass, water, clouds - whereas I like it when the light serves to focus and highlight, creating 'stronger values' in my painting.

Although I have to say, there are some Monet paintings where the light seems to add an entirely different dimension to the painting. Like in this - one of his Japanese Gardens - where - it somehow seems like the painting is breathing.

I mean - what can you say about that???? Magical? Possessed? Its vibrating with energy.

Rodin
The museum had a nice selection of Rodins, including
A full size of the kiss. I thought it was marble, but the website says terracotta. Don't ask me how I can confuse those two.

Rodin, who believed ""Nothing, really, is more moving than the maddened beast, dying from unfulfilled desire and asking in vain for grace to quell its passion."

The dynamic physicality of his sculptures - how they never seem at rest. Speaking of The Thinker, "What makes my Thinker think is that he thinks not only with his brain, with his knitted brow, his distended nostrils and compressed lips, but with every muscle of his arms, back, and legs, with his clenched fist and gripping toes." Like the early everest summiter who crashed his plane as high as he could and then started to climb - Rodin's figures are committed.

Degas
Degas was also fairly well represented

and even had this sketch that I've spent hours struggling with to copy - the woman's face. Is so tricky here. Degas is celebrated for many things - his ability to capture/represent movement, I love his use of colour and line, his compositions - but something that I find wonderous is his ability to sketch in the face with the minutest level of detail, in really challenging perspectives, and just utterly nail it. It's really annoying. I mean - an arm, a leg, to greater or lesser extents they are cylinders - basic shapes - that can be rotated predictably and rather easily by the mind. But the human face? Ohmygod. There are just many angles, planes, subtle shifts. Boggles the mind how he could catch it with a squiggle and a bit of shading.

This is also interesting cause you can see his mistake. The upper arm wasn't connecting to the torso properly. He just kept on going.

And the use of light! To define the shapes - from the face down to the upper torso - there isn't a single defining 'cartoon' like line. The shape is completely conveyed through shading.

I really like Degas' work. Unfortunately he was an anti-semite, and a unhappy loner.
Renoir said of him: "What a creature he was, that Degas! All his friends had to leave him; I was one of the last to go, but even I couldn't stay till the end." Never married and spent the last years of his life, nearly blind, restlessly wandering the streets of Paris.

Gratuitous Degas

Cezanne

I took a little sketch book and pencil with me, and when I do that I find it really helpful to sketch other sketches (if they are available). As a learning tool, you can see the barebones that the artist laid down. What they were thinking, even their mistakes, where they made adjustments - stuff that's hidden by days, weeks and layers in the final paintings. Here is a little sketch by Cezanne, observing his son drawing. A generational self-portrait?

But what about all the south american art??
Luckily I have tomorrow!

2009-05-30T11:40:00.001-07:00

Today I was either the subject of an elaborate scam, or the victim of an unfortunate incident, who was then kindly helped by strangers. I just can't decide.

The scene:
Pouring rain out, around midday, I'm walking down deserted blvds, heading for the Museum of Beaux Arts. Stop at a corner. Two people approach me. Man, Woman - ask me 'Hora?'

I respond by pointing at my watch, indicating both that its 12:15 and that I'm a tourist, albeit it not one with an expensive watch. I wait, they wait. Light starts to flash, I realize that I've misunderstood the traffic lights *again* am about to miss my walk signal. I rush to catch the last of the light as I cross the street and head into a (wide open) park. They follow.

At this point, the three of us are pretty much the only people walking through this park - I'm a bit suspecious because of the hora thing - two people, no watch? Seems unlikely - and the way they didn't cross the street until I did. But I'm not overly concerned. I'm not exactly in a tourist hotspot, and the weather was so bad, it would be hard to beleive they were targeting the area. It seems more likely that they are tourists as well. Plus they were pretty well put together for what was about to happen next.

Namely that I realize that somehow, someway, I've been mi mierda by a bird. And not just a little mierda. There is mierda on my jacket, on my backpack, on my *legs* and in my *hair*. I've beeen mierda carpet-bombed.

How could I have not noticed this when it happened? I don't know - but it was pouring rain out, so possible.

Enter my two possible thiefs/friends. Who exclaim and rush up to me, offering napkins and aqua. So I'm trying to mentally calculate the probabilty of these people having trained a bird to mierda on tourists, and weighing it against accepting their help to get this crap off of me as soon as possible. They are pulling on my jacket and my bag, which there is nothing in my jacket pockets, so I give them that to wipe down, while I hang onto my bag (camera). My wallet, which I wear across my chest, was under my jacket but is now in the open, and I'm trying to keep an eye on that and my bag as these two people find more and more mierda on me and my stuff. For about three minutes they help me clean up my jacket, bag, pants, hair, sometimes in front of me, sometimes behind me, until I finally am like 'gracias, gracias es bueno'. I say it a couple of times, and they eventually leave - walking back they way they came (odd) but handing me the rest of the napkins (nice).

I take a few minutes and make sure nothing is missing. Now - nothing is missing, but zippers were open. I can't swear they were all closed before, but its likely they were. A backpack zipper (one of six zippers- so tough odds for them) was open, and a zipper on my wallet was open (my wallet is a mess that I can barely find anything in, so again not easy to get stuff out of without taking the whole thing.

I honestly can not decide. Training a bird just seems so bizarre and resource intensive, unless *they* somehow sprayed me with it (and who knows what exactly it was), or boby trapped a tree in the park - but I don't know, none of those seems all that likely to be worth the effort.

Its the mystery of the day for me.

[had a great time at the art musuem - post for another time!]

ETA: Update! It is a scam! Google-able, no less.

At least now I feel better about NOT going back to the hostel for a shower before continuing on my way to the museum.

GOAAAAL!

2009-05-28T17:32:00.000-07:00

I scored a goal today. In polo. When I - from a walking horse, swung a mallet, connected with an IMPOSSIBLY small ball, and knocked it 10 meters.

It wobbled, it teetored, it rambled, but in the end it made it through the goal posts.

My instructor Fernando let out a shout of incredibility. This moment, three hours in the making, crafted by his patience to explain in spanish, english and french, in as many different ways as possible how to sit on a horse, swing a mallet, hit a ball while I responded by swinging at the air, knocking clods of dirt, hitting him, hitting myself, and hitting poor Zeta the pony (a steadfast soul, if understandably unenthusiastic about me), while dropping reins, crops, and mallets.

I am amazed that anyone can gallop around and hit that only-slightly-larger-than a ping-pong-ball at ALL much less with reliability and accuracy. BUT I had proof that it was possible as out with me on the field was a team practising for a match this weekend.

So my pony and I would be on our third attempt to hit a ball (walk, swing, miss, circle back, repeat), when I'd hear this crack, see the white flash of a ball flying past our heads. Next would be the pounding of eight hooves, then suddenly we'd be in the midst of two over-heated ponies and their .... errr.. rather sexily swarthy riders careening about. A flurry of mallets, spanish oaths, straining limbs, tossed heads, precariously fought balance points, and CRACK the ball would be off down the field again, the ponies spun around and chasing it down.

call me a fan!

Video of other people playing polo

dilemna

2009-05-26T15:11:00.000-07:00

I have a dilemna.
For 240 pesos, roughly $80 CDN - I can take a Polo lesson.
It's not really the money that is making me hesitate.

It's the fact that when I get there, and there are real life polo fields and polo horses, facing my one chance to play polo in Argentina, I'll think back to all the horses I've ridden - the ponies that used to run me under branches, or the one that would jump *in* to the In-and-Out but go no further (although i frequently did), or the off-the-track racehorses that would take off on my 13 year old self, or my first horse show when the horse stepped on my foot and I cried, and then cried because I was crying AT MY FIRST HORSESHOW (I was eight).

I'll remember all of these incidents as signs of my unique bond with horses.
I will completely ignore the fact that I haven't ridden consistently in something like 15 years, and when asked about my experience will consolidate my hazy horsey memories into a statement like "Oh yes I ride. hmmm? Pretty well. Pretty well, I'd say. Certainly Not Bad."

I know this because approximately 10 years ago I was in Hungary, in not dissimilar circumstances and THAT WAS EXACTLY WHAT I SAID. A short while later this horse is making its bid for freedom while I, stirrups lost, reins and mane gripped together, pray that there are no groundhogs in Hungary as we dash across the great plains.

Of course, none of this would really be a problem EXCEPT I've got four months of skiing coming up. And the only thing worse than injuring yourself on the first day of skiing is injuring yourself two weeks before the first day.

But.... com'on. It's Argentina!!! It's POLO. NO ONE is that strong.

random

2009-05-24T10:35:00.001-07:00

This is a random post because random is all I got.

- Fake 100 peso bills. David (from France) picked up a fake 100 p bill in the first hour he was in Buenos Aires. Getting out of a taxi, he handed the driver a 100 p bill. The driver handed it back saying 'too big'. David paid the fare with smaller bills. Later he finds out that between taking it and handing it back, the taxi driver switched the 100 p bill with a fake one.

- If you want to bond with your fellow travellors - just mention India. Anyone who has been there can not wait to share their unique India horror stories. Language barriers crumble under the overwhelming desire to talk to someone who has actually been there and who understands! I went sightseeing with David (France) and Dan (Calgary). All three of us had been to India. We spent 90 mins in the Plaza de Mayo talking about India. My best India tip was always: Never acccept help from someone who offers, always find someone who isn't offering and ask. David's was: Only ask Sikhs for help.
David: "In India, I only ask Sikhs. Since every Sikh man's name ends in Singh - i just look for a man in a turban and then I say: 'Excuse me very much, Mr. Singh, but could you please help me.' Never had any problems. Very good people, the Sikhs. The taxi driver who gave me the fake bill? Not a sikh."

Dan (Calgary's) peice of India travel advice was: "Tell the taxi driver that you will go to any store, if he will then take you to where you want to go. They get paid if you walk into a store regardless if you buy something or not. It just saves all the hassel of them trying to trick and argue you into going to the store. You can get free rides if you visit enough stores."

Then there are all the medical horror stories - like Dan's friend who, despite having her typhoid vaccinations, still came down with this extremely rare form of typhoid. After trying Indian hospitals where they kept on telling her it was food-related, she got on the phone with her parents, told them to book her a ticket home, and managed to get onto the plane before passing out. It took US doctors another month before they were able to diagnose what she had. Like some horrible episode of House.

Botanical Gardens. Ever since my short but enthusiastic tenure on the board of Columbia Valley Botanical Gardens and Centre for Sustainable Living, I've been interested in Botanical Gardens. Walked through Buenos Aires' todays. The most interesting aspect of it is not the flowers/grass/shrubery but the cats! Apparently it doubles as a cat refuge. A charity provides for food and vet care for dozens and dozens of cats. So you are walking as herds of playful fat cats chase birds, or sleep in relaxed heaps of fur on the sun-baked paths. It is overrun by these cats. They are very good with people. I watched one two year old, upon being relased from her stroller, scream gleefully and toddle towards a cat, hands out stretched. The cat didn't move. The kid got to the cat, froze, then after studing the cat for a long minute, reached out with her chubby hand and gave one very long, deliberate, stroke. Then she started grabbing fur, at which point the cat rose, looked at me with askance, and padded away.

My roomates are currently: A brazilian who isn't snobby at all, an Frenchwoman who is awesome (its like – all French women are Juliette Binoche), and a Chilean (who I can't communicate with). The thing that all three have in common? The abliity to pull dresses and high heeled shoes out of backpacks, brush their hair and look ridiculously glamourous. (my long underwear, t-shirt and runners are not cutting it)

My current French roommate, (who has worn three different outfits today alone), was rushing out of the shower, getting dressed – a date with an Argentinean.

“You must try these Argentineans before you leave.” She said. “But they joke.”
“Joke?”
“They say stuff like : I want you to meet my mother. Or I want to marry you. But it’s a joke. They do not want you to meet their mother.”

“Ok.”

“Like, this guy. Normally, after, a French guy, or an English guy, they would say ‘I had a great time. I really like you, I am happy around you. This guy he says: You are the only person I’ve felt sexually connected to. Who says that? So weird. But I can not help it. It’s true, I am very sexually attracted to him, even though I know he jokes, you still want to believe it right?” She points to her eyes, “he has, I do not know the word, but one eye does not match when he looks.”

“He has a lazy eye?”

“Yes. I am so attracted to that. Now. My hair is wet. What to do? I am very late.”
She shrugs. “He will wait.”

LOVE HER!

eta: almost forgot the most important thing - 16 cms of snow expected in Las Lenas over the next six days!

and we're back

2009-05-22T14:51:00.000-07:00

The blog continues. I was thinking about starting another blog focused on skiing for my current trip down to las lenas, Argentina. But couldn't think of a good name, ('lost in las lenas' while attractively lllll sounding, seemed unnecessarily pessismistic). Decided instead to revive the old one.

mini-catch up - since finishing my bike trip in seattle. I boxed merle up for fedex-ing (for bikes, use fedex, way cheaper internationally) to Ontario, bussed myself up to Invermere, picked up my car, and drove myself back to Ontario. Spent two and a half months making noises about finding an apartment (hey I looked at TWO) while living in one sister's guest room and on another sister's couch.

Then in November circumstances aligned such that I decided to spend the winter out west skiing. So packed up the car AGAIN and headed out to Revelstoke where I did precisely that and almost nothing else. Sometime around March, feeling like the season was already winding down and not satisfied with that, I googled Skiing, South America and stumbled upon Las Lenas. A resort hopefully more substantial than the information available on it. Booked a ticket. Drove the car back to Toronto. Spent three weeks mostly at my parents (excellent service, four stars). Then two days ago, after making me promise to 'Think About my Future' (by which he did not mean the next four months of skiing) my dad drove me to the airport and I got on a plane.

And so here I am. Buenos Aires. Migrating my way across the country to the Chilian border (where Las Lenas is located) with nothing but my trusty hiking boots, the clothes on my back and -

- Skis -2 (XXLs, Heads)
- Poles - (1 touring poles)
- Avy gear & skins
- helmet
- goggles (2 pairs - cloudy lense, sunny lense)
- Lange boots (hang in there please!!!)
- Ski Jacket and Ski Pants
- Mitts and liners
- One fleece
- One long sleeve slightly oderous bike jersey
- 3 sets of long underwear
- 3 t-shirts
- 1 pair of jeans
- 1 pair of capris
- 1 pair of boxers
- 1 little black dress (I'm worried about spontaneous charity events!)
- 1 pajama bottom
- 3 pairs of ski socks
- 3 pairs of regular socks
- all half decent underwear
- sunglasses/sunscreen/glasses/contacts
- my/heather's white and pink knitted hat
- my green knitted hat
- my blue ski hat
- my canada baseball cap
- neck warmer
- laptop
- video camera
- sleeping bag
- towel
- bathing suit
- my mug
- misc toiletries
- one hacky sac
- Two books - Gulliver's Travels and The Three Pillars of Zen
- my skiing mojo & my beginner spanish

so to answer the burning question:

No, I did not bring the bike. :(

Here is what I was told today about Las Lenas - from Pablo - who was seated one row a head of me in the airplane yesterday, and who I then bumped into at Plaza Italia today ('small 12.5 million city')

"Las Lenas!" he said. "You do not want to go there. Go to Bariloche. Las Lenas is nothing but snobby brazilians and europeons jetting. Rich people on vacation. The people will bore you. Go to Bariloche it has art, culture - there is ok skiing there and it is Patagonia. Patagonia!! Las Lenas has nothing."

Pablo's vote of confidence in my plans aside, I still figure - he's not a skier, so doesn't really get it, and two, generally, the more remote, unlikely, hard to get to, a place is, the better it is! At least that's my Philosophy of Travelling, and it hasn't failed me yet.... more or less. Balance of probability at least!

Today I wandered through some parks. I am rusty in my traveling. I was aiming for the Argentinian Polo fields, and instead ended up at the Center for Islam. Which in my defence, has some beautifully manicured grounds.

Tomorrow - Botanical Gardens and Japanese Gardens, and if all else fails - my safety tourist destination is Malba - Musuem of Art Latin-American Buenos Aires.

So uh. To the old readers. Welcome back. To those who are linking here to learn the ins and out of solo cycling touring in America, just go to the beginning of this blog and start reading.

Adios for now (or - Go! GO AWAY ! as the Argentinian custom agent shouted at me.)

[I mistook his wave for a friendly greeting, so naturally waved back. He kept on waving. I kept on waving too. Turns out his wave was really 'welcome to my country and I have no questions for you']

DONE DONE DONE!

2008-08-06T09:58:00.000-07:00

From: Victoria, BC
To: Kirkland, WA
via: Washington, Oregon, California, Arizona (ugh!), Utah, Colorado, Wyoming (winds!!!), Montana, Idaho, and Washington again.

And it's done. There was much going on in the last days - including a bit of a home stay on a almost 100% self-sufficient farm with the most adorable alpacas. Oh and Washington Pass has one heck of finishng two mile kick on it. Plus what trans-nation trip is complete without a little pot smuggling tale to round things up courtsey of some of my campsite mates.

There may be more cycling (I still have to get to Vancouver and then to Invermere for my car, some portion I may cycle) but for having to draw the line somewhere - it ends here.

No significant thoughts other than a fairly deep relief that I do not have to bribe myself up another mountain pass (and the three corresponding hours of suffering), that my bottom bracket did not give out, and that I otherwise survived the logging trucks and road construction.

Some bits to remember

best climb: Going to the Sun, Glacier National Park
Worst day: First day in Arizona. I think that was the worse day of cycling in my life. I think it was possibly one of the worst days of cycling in the history of cycling.
Best Descent: 30 odd mile descent from North Rim of Grand Canyone to Kabab (the desert is much better when you don't have to pedal and you can go fast. I think a plane is proabably the best way to see the desert.
Worse descent: Into Lincoln City when it was pournig rain, freezing cold. All the gunk on the roads got kicked up into my eyes so I couldn't see and my glasses fogged, the bob trailer was going boucning all over the place behind me. If joe's tire hadn't flatted, I probably would have stabbed my own.
Bloodiest day: When, in a rush to make Batman, I drop my bike and the big chain ring digs four teeth-sized chunks into my calf. Blood streaming down my leg, I think: well it's not like I have a first aid kit anyway, and limp off to the ticket booth. (I only missed the previews)
Closest I came to quiting: Never really happened. Mostly because the times I was about to lose it, there was no option to quit. Although in Zion National Park, waiting for my tent, I sometimes thought: would it be such a crime to just go home now?
Strangest thing said to me: A guy, after he realized I was with Michael and Joe, asked me if I did all my own pedalling (yes, i replied, i do). Also been asked by a motorist at a stoplight "are you cool?" (Yes, I replied, I am)
Number of other female solo cyclists met: One. (I was also the only one she met)
Number of problems I had as a single female? None.
Most inane song stuck in my head: 'Mary had a little lamb' In desperation, tried to reverse engineering the plot of Cats based on fragments of the soundtrack. Very hard. I have no idea what that musical was about.
Strangest habit: Have started referring to my bicycle and me as 'we' as in 'yes, we did this or saw that'
Would I do it again? Yes, but next time its going to be South America :)

Bye!!!

Republic, WA

2008-08-02T13:00:00.000-07:00

Sherman's pass turned out to be epic. And not in a good way. Its 23 mile climb, with, as stated before over 4000 feet of elevation gain - the most of which seem to happen in the last seven miles (UNFORGIVEABLE). What was even worse is that, as far as I could tell, for the last seven miles, there were lots of places a road could have gone that did not involve all this climbing. You'd look around, and everywhere would be going down except the road! I had a lot of rage against the road builder - it got personal. ("why are you doing this to me?!?!?! I hate you!!!!!"). If he'd had suddenly shown up I'd have cheerfully bear sprayed him. Plus it was really cold at top, so on / off with the layers constantly, and still chilled on the descent.

Last night - no the night before last - I shared a campspot with Dan and his wife Jean. They are memorable for how generous they were with their beer, and also because their house had just burnt down that day (Jean told me that it was the first time she'd been able to say the words without crying). I'm not sure what kind of house it was, as it was in a friend's shop, and the shop burnt down. Something about a fifth wheel home? I don't know. But it was very new, had all their photos, etc. of when the kids where babies.

I didn't ask about insurance. From the way Dan said, "we will just start all over again."
It didn't sound like they were expecting a windfall of cash.

Going to hang out in Republic until I fill slightly less resentful to road surveyors everywhere and then will tackle the next climb - a meager 2000 feet. Should be a fun-filled afternoon!

Ione, Idaho 85 ish miles so far

2008-07-31T14:55:00.000-07:00

More really gorgeous scenery! And finally no wind!!!!
When I first mentioned this cycling trip to my mom she suggested that I just stay in Invermere and cycle around there. I was all 'you don't get it!' but now that I'm back in the BC/Washinton region - it is some of the best cycling of the entire trip. Temperature, road conditions, scenery. Everything.

Unfortunatly, think I pulled some sort of muscle in my left leg. Body - for the last three months you have been a rock star. You have stoically accepted endless abuse without complaint (well except the day out of phoenix, az. But that day was so full of fail that it doesn't count). Knees - you have exceeded my wildest ache-free expectations. I've barely even had a sniffle. HOWEVER - Please PLEASE hold it together for the next five days!

Tomorrow the climbing begins in earnest. 1300 foot climb warm up and then the main course - 4000+ feet to the top of Sherman's Pass. I may try to get the 1300 footer out of the way today, as it is only three in the afternoon.

2008-07-30T14:27:00.000-07:00

Today:
Libby, MT to Sandpoint, Idaho (95ish miles)
currently in Clark Fork, ID

View Larger Map

This morning started really tough. With lots of wind, tired legs, and beginning to that mental calculation of exactly how bad things have to get before I can justify just calling it quits (assuming my bike suddenly fails - how expensive does the repair have to be in order to not fix it?). Very much like how at the end of term you start looking at fast moving cars as solutions. ('if i step in front of that car then I don't have to write anymore exams or even study for them! Probably only get a broken arm and some cracked ribs!)

Then things got better! Can't really explain it - the wind calmed down, the clouds cleared up, and I just cheered up. Didn't even require a diner breakfast.

Also met Jim, an elderly Irish gentleman, who is making his way from New York to Anacortes.

Oh and I realized I never put in my favorite (as in, most horrifying) Dru quote.
(Dru was the crazy woman who tried to make me cycle Monument Valley).
We're eating dinner and I'm not really listening to her very much as she goes on and on about the various men in her life. Then she goes. "So there we were at dinner and I order a nice bottle of wine but can't finish it. I don't want it to go to waste and I tell him to finish it. He doesn't want to, but I pressure him until he finally does. It was an okay date, but he was normal then. The next time I saw him he had lost his job and house."
She thinks for a bit.
"I'll tell you one thing. that's the last time I make a recovering alcoholic drink."

Libby, MT

2008-07-29T15:21:00.000-07:00

Yesterday got from Fernie to just outside a little place called Eureka (this is my second 'Eureka' of the trip). It has occured to me that if I had just decided to go get my car in Invermere, I would be there by now and not updating you about the woes of a worn out back tire (requiring me to switch my front tire to my back and put my spare on my front) and the two inner tube changes that i've made in the last two days, the worst hamburger ever (junction of 3 and 93 west of Fernie). Oh and the wind.

However the die is cast and all that and i'm focused on the 700 or so miles left to seattle.

Good points have been the lake/pine tree scenery. And lots of up and down (the down parts are the good points).

Right now I'm in Libby, Mt and off to see the fire department about camping arrangments.

2008-07-27T16:56:00.001-07:00

Saturday did 107 miles from Avalanche Campground in Glacier National Park to Pincher Creek, AB

- Going-to-the-sun climb (west to east) is the greatest climb ever! Every cyclist should do it if they get the chance. Its not steep, so you can just spin up it for a couple of hours - AND 'climbing' speed is the perfect speed to take in the views. I started climbing at 7 am to avoid the heat and the cars and it was amazing. The sun coming up over the peaks, the waterfalls of melting snow spilling over rocks, no problems with traffic. Great. Sure, like all climbs you end up wishing it was a mile shorter a mile from the end, but over all - three thumbs up!
- the rest of the day. Ups and Downs. Nothing really remarkable until I crossed the cdn border and immediately got attacked by blackflies. ick. But Waterton National Park was great too. Then, coming up to Pincher Creek, I saw the worst thing a cyclist could see (i used to think it was the 'passing lane' signs until I saw the decapitated deer lying on the shoulder) BUT it was an entire field of windmills pointing in the direction I was going. I had to stop for five minutes to absorb how something so good (green energy, yey!) could cause me so much despair.

HOWEVER, for once FOR ONCE the gods were smiling on me! And for the last 17 miles, as I started crossing this expanse - THERE WAS NO WIND. I felt like Odysseus - finally being allowed home. Unfortuntely, proving that as flies to wanton boys are we to the gods, the next morning the wind was back full force, the windmills gustily spinning as I headed out with very low spirits. The 76 miles today to Fernie were pretty long miles.

Now that I have crossed Crows Nest Pass East to West, no one else needs to do it. Its up there with 'cycling across deserts' as an experience just best avoided. OF COURSE in one of the numerous gas stations I stop at, the locals tell me: 'windy? this is a calm day here in the pass' Whatever. I had to pedal down a 4-5% grade just to stop from being blown over! Pedaling downhill!!!!! That's just wrong. It felt like a sign of the apocalypse. I did eventually get through it, but I took my time. No 'historic point of interest' went unread, no visitor centre unvisted, no scenic lookout unviewed. It was perhaps the most educational 76 miles of my trip.

Finally I'd like to dedicate what's left on this post to my sister Julie who is on her trip to France and Italy. Julie doesn't like to talk to me about her vacation plans because she says I don't get excited enough and say things like "If all you are doing is sitting on a horse while it blindly follows the horse in front of it, then No, I don't see what's so exciting about trail riding through the Belize jungle."

Which gets her mad.

So I'm taking this opportunity to say how excited I am for your trip, Julie, and I hope all sorts of exciting Hepburn-esque adventures happen. Perhaps your suitcase will get swapped with a mysterious stranger's and hijinks ensue. Or you haplessly catch the wrong train, get invited to a formal diner and require the sage bellhop's aid in acquiring a dress!? Who knows! Things like that happen in Europe. Even if its just you and your friends hanging out sipping wine and chewing bread (the only two things I suspect you'll be able to afford :) than that still sounds like an awesome time and I'm happy and excited for you. MYLYBS.

ETA: tomorrow back across the border and then onto Seattle for the fourth and last leg of my trip.

ETA2: my phone doesn't work in canada. I am just cursed when it comes to cell phone. Maybe it will work when I get back to the States.

Columbia Falls. MT

2008-07-25T11:08:00.000-07:00

Wednesday:
Left Missoula, cycled another 28-ish miles to Headquarters Lubrecht Experimental Forest. There I camped in the midst of a youth camp (but for free!) and shared the cycling area with Doug - a retired US Army Colonel. The people you meet cycle-touring! I totally quized him about the US military. Not the type of person I'd been expecting as a colonel. He is on a trike, and cetainly had me convinced about its comfort benefits (even if it does require a lot of space on the road). Heading from Jasper to Charleston (his home town). He also shared with me his touring motto: Start slow and ease up. :)

He was also carrying 60 lbs of gear and absolutly could not believe how little stuff I have. I told him that other than the guys carrying their dogs, I think he's the heaviest I've meet.

Thursday: Left the campground and did 100 easy aweseome miles. Just endless lakes lined with sheltering pine trees. Perfect 66 degrees. Kept on going cause I wanted Spent last night sharing a campsite with Martin, a german dude who actually may have had more stuff than Doug - except that Martin is doing the great divide, which is a mtn bike route that requires a lot more gear. Although I doubt he needs all FIVE pots/pans/dishes. I also introduced him to the wonder of coucous.

Today: From here (Columbia Falls) I have another 30 miles to give me a nice short day to the base of 'Going-to-the-sun' highway. Then first thing bright and early tomorrow I shall be climbing the 3,500 ish feet. Bicycles are prohibited on the roads betwen 11 am and 4 pm. So there is an exciting element of time to the whole thing (although I do wonder what they do if its 11 and you aren't at the top yet? Do they collect all cyclists and just drive them up the rest of the way?)

Sunday I expect to be in Canada heading towards Fernie. Where I will then loop South to connect to the northern route through Washington. Where incidentally - there is going to be about a pass a day (what a way to end the trip- just climb after climb after climb).

It is going to be quite difficult to be in Fernie, and head south rather than just heading to my car in Invermere. The temptation may be too much to resist!

eta: apparently its puppy season. Gamboling puppies everywhere!!!! So cute! Also - the only thing weirder looking than a llama? A shaved llama. I saw one today and thought: why is that poodle grazing?

slight change of plans!

2008-07-23T14:05:00.000-07:00

Instead of heading back to Invermere before the Seattle wedding, I think I'm going to cycle to Seattle. There might be a bit of a dramatic ending, timing wise - but I am confident I can do it (when am I not? :)

Maybe I'll even have an extra day or so for Glacier National Park.

As close as I can get google maps to show me, its this: plus heading to seattle at the end!

View Larger Map

(right now I'm in Missoula, MT, headquarters of Adventure Cycling Association.) The bike chain thing is fixed. Rear cassette is fine. THe horrendous noise was due to me threading the chain UNDER a metal thingy rather than OVER it when I re-snapped the chain together. All I am going to say about this is the same thing I said to the bike guy when he showed how the chain was supposed to go: Its amazing how you learn something every day.

May stay here tonight or move onto a campground. Checking out the weather.

Darby, Montana

2008-07-22T13:54:00.000-07:00

Montana is a great place to cycle. Even with the head winds that have apparently decided to torment me through the state. AND even with my chain snapping yesterday in the midst of a climb (the same chain I bought in Jackson Hole). Luckily I have this extra link that I could put in to chain it together again - but now it makes this horrific noise and I'm sure its eating my rear cassette all to peices. Only another 60 or so miles to go to another bike shop!

That's the thing with touring. So many things happen in one day - you are in total awe and amazement over a view (or a egg omelete) and then 90 mins later you are staring at your broken chain, in the middle of 46 miles of NOTHING, 230 miles to the nearest bike shop - 1500 feet left to climb, thinking 'ok, what now?"

Montana is best when you are cycling next to one of its wonderful rivers, waving at the fly fisherpeople, with the temperature a friendly 75. Montana also has endless vistas of grassy plains. These grassy plains are great as you descend into them and think 'wow - that's endless!' , but after three days, and you are STILL IN THIS GRASSY PLAIN, all you are thinking is: end already!!!!!

Of course they end with a climb through a mountain pass, so its not all good news.

This morning was one of those mornings where i told myself: 'Sarah, today is a success if you just get out of bed.'
It was pouring out, and the bugs were especially vicious. But I got out of my tent, staggered the 500 meters into town (Wisdom), and waited in a local cafe drinking copious cups of coffee until the weather cleared slightly. Then I returned, packed up my campsite,and got going. Two hours later, as I was hitting the climb for the day, the weather cleared, the sun came out, and I enjoyed one of my best descents. Seven miles down highway 93. Good pavement, no traffic. GREAT.

View Larger Map

Plus 16 miles off route which I decided I'd rather cycle and camp for free than pay KOA's exorbiant tent fees. 25$ for a tent?????? Gimme a break!!!

West Yellowstone

2008-07-18T21:21:00.000-07:00

Did 80 miles yesterday through the park. 15 miles today before hitting town and deciding I needed the day off. Since its been raining on/off all day, seems to have been a good choice. If its still raining tomorrow may take a full day off for real, and maybe even have another shower :0

Yellowstone park *is* amazing. Fields of steam floating past, the colours in the pools - the problem is there are so MANY people! It is packed. Its really hard to appreciate Old Faithful when you have to listen to a british man berate his wife to THINK before she opens her mouth to SPEAK to him. I want to come back in the winter/fall for a week. I think the park would be a lot easier to experience without all these people.

There was a good moment when I was unlocking my bike when a woman approached me - saying how they were behind me in their RV on a descent and paced me at 42 mph - which they couldn't believe - then when they finally passed me her two boys shouted :"And its a girl!"

hee.

:)

Jackson update

2008-07-16T14:22:00.001-07:00

the wind may be blowing in the right direction!
Spent some time in the bike shop (and 200$)
- new bike shorts(100 but ABSOLUTLEY NEEDED)
- handle bars re-wraped
- new chain
- new cleats for my shoes (i've lost track - third pair? Fourth?)
- a net for carrying things on my handlebars that will hopefully work better than my bungee.

DID NOT BUY
- and $125 gorgeous merino wool bike jersey in my size (and with pockets!) that i came so close to buying. Because it is the best material ever for long term use and abuse. But in the end could not bear the idea of sending my Team Canada jersey home. Plus, 125 dollars buys a lot of cliff bars :)

A lot of cycling.

2008-07-16T09:16:00.000-07:00

RAWLINGS TO Jackson Hole(too many miles to count)

Left Rawlings Sunday at about 7:00. Little did I know it then, but I would do 125 miles that day.

Nice smooth early morning (non-windy) ridin) for 30 miles until I hit my first destination:
"In south-central wyoming, 125 miles of highway stretch from Casper south to Rawlings. Along the east side of the highway, just south of Lamont, is an oasis. It's called ...
GRANDMA'S CAFE - OPEN"
(from the menu).

A DINER BREAKFAST! My first in a long time. As I was the only customer, I sat chatting with Grandma for about an hour or so before heading on my way. Back on the bike I go - the scenery in Wyoming just improved the further north and west I went - and at this point I was getting 20 mile vistas of wyoming plains, herds of antelope galloping beside me. Pretty spectacular. Another 11 miles, hit another reststop (Muddy Gap), then another 20 miles, and I'm at my destination for the day. Jeffrey City. Population 2, as far as I could tell. The old guy who ran the cafe/bar/restaurant and his friend. I stopped in for a coke (I know! terrible! but I'm having so much trouble drinking enough that I've had to start drinking carbonated or else my stomach just feels awful). Anyway, the the two old men were glued to what I can safely say is the worst movie of all time. I only saw half an hour of it, but it had the actors talking to animatronic shark fins, and the fins listening! The plot was genetically engineered sharks escape into a lake. It had lines like 'It may sound like science fiction, but it's not - it's science fact!' complete with a little blonde girl with pigtails, and the two main scientists being a bickering divorced couple. IT WAS AGONIZINGLY terrible.

It was 1:30 pm, and I looked at that place and I thought : I can not spend another 7 hours of day light here. I will go crazy. There were headwinds, but not terrible headwinds. Looked at my map, saw that next reststop was 20 miles up the road - thought ok. I can do that. Three miles into that leg and I meet two oncoming tourers who tell me that there is a 'guy with a beard' 10 miles a head of me. Well! As Joe would say, you might as well have dangled a fresh peanut butter and banana sandwich in front of me! Someone else going in my direction? I told them good bye, and put on my time-trialling hat. Hands in the drops, helmet tucked as far into my handle bar bag as possible, and I was off. My hope was to catch him while he was still taking a break at Sweetwater (the next stop). I get to sweetwater - he's gone. Crap! the next town, Lander, is another 40 miles. I'm already at 85 miles for the day. But he's probably just a head of me, its only 3:30. I can do it. Back on the bike. Back to time trialling. 20 miles later I catch him.

It's Dave. A 22 year old guy taking six months before starting flight school with the US airforce. Just a really nice, solid, grounded guy. We trundle through the last 20 miles together and camp out at Lander - a cycling -friendly and otherwise really cool town - free camping in the city park. one of my fellow campers was practicing their flame-sword throwing. Was quite spectacular after dark.

Also in Lander, had one of the weirdest conversations I've had yet (which is saying a lot). In the morning as I'm waiting for Dave (he's one of those meticulous guys who takes forever to pack up) the 'alumiun can collecting guy' comes to the garbage bin near me. He says hello, I say hello, we chat a bit about cycling (my bike is with me) and then he goes:

Him: So, are you from Germany?
Me: What? No, Canadian.
Him. French Canadian?.
Me: No... English.
Him. huh. (pause) Lady, you have one strange accent.

then he walks off with his bags of aluminum cans. Was he messing with me? I have no idea!

But Lander = coolest town in Wyoming so far.

MONDAY - LANDER TO ASPEN MEADOWS (80-odd miles)
The next day, Dave talks me into heading off to this cyclist only camping spot 80-odd miles. Dave called ahead to the people who 'run' it (its basically their home) and the guy there (also Dave - Hostel-Dave) thinks its not a good idea to try to make it in one day. Cycling-Dave hangs up the phone and goes: I think we can make it. Actually what he says is, I'm pretty sure I can make, and I'm sure you can. Showing that despite knowing me for only about 4 hours, he'd already figured out how to manipulate me.

We did not get an early start. Didn't leave until maybe 8:30. Nonetheless the first 40 miles were nice. Gradual climbing, but as I said, scenically, Wyoming just kept on getting better. Green sands! These giant cubic stones looking like protruding molars. Really gorgeous and unique looking. Then we get to Crowheart. 27 miles to Dubois (the next town), 36 miles to the cycling hostel.

Me: Well Cycling-Dave, I think you're right. I think we will make it. The only thing that could cause us problems now is if the wind picks up.

WHOOSH

The wind picked up. Both of us in our easiest gear, staring at our feet, just plowing our way, weaving as the wind shoved us around. Dave is going at maybe 4 miles per hour, and I just can't. I just can't go that slow. I go in front, and within a mile can't see him anymore. On I go. Cursing the wind (why won't you stop???). What really ends up screwing me up is that my map indicates there is a gas station 6 miles from Dubois. So I lock onto that gas station with the mental ferocity of a rottweiler. I'm drinking my water knowing that there is this gas station, i'm doing my 'mile countdown' to the gas station. Well guess what? NO GAS STATION.

After another agonizing HOUR i finally hit town, where I have to cycle another mile before I reach a store I can buy something at. I am raging against the town - every town should have a mini-mart or something at its main entrances! !!!! I finally hit a pharmacy (of all things) and I stagger in. The woman at the counter looks at me and goes 'should I get you a glass of water or just call 9-1-1?'

which to be fair, I don't think i looked *that* bad.

It took me just over 3 hours to do that 25 miles. I wait in the town for about 75 minutes for Dave. He does not show up. I call Hostel-Dave, saying I'm still going to try to get there (Nine more miles! into the wind!). He asks where other dave is. I dunno, I tell him, I lost him in the wind. 15 mins later, still no sign of cycling-Dave, I head off. Hostel- Dave earns my gratitude for life for driving out and picking me up with still three miles left. SO HAPPY TO GET OUT OF THAT WIND.

Hostel-Dave and his wife Jo-An, basically open their home to cyclists coming through the area. Its not a hostel, its their home. Wonderful old wooden cabins to sleep in, a garage for bikes, they cook the cyclists dinner and breakfast (more than you could possibly eat). Its all incredible and incredibly unexpected. And so much history! hostel-Dave's family has been in the same town since 1893 or something. I really felt I got a glimpse of wyoming that i never would have staying in a campsite, or just cycling through.

Cycling Dave shows up there in about another hour. So he's been on his bike straight for almost 12 hours. The two of us greet each other as if we just unexpectedly survived a gruesome battle.

Me: "I'm sorry! I just had to leave you! I just couldn't go that slow! I would have died."
Him: No! I was glad you went! I was hoping you weren't waiting!"

After a nights sleep and endless: spaghetti, fruit, salad, yogurt, water, juice, blueberry pancakes, we head off again. Fortified for the days cycling which includes: 2,500 feet of climbing over 20 miles. After the climb, Dave and I split up, as he's a hurry to get to Yellowstone, and I want to see Jackson Hole. Down a 17 mile descent, across a grassy plan, with the Tetons, as otherworldy as a second moon, slowly rising in the distance.

I miss my campground and have to backtrack 8 miles (resulting in a day of 75 miles - which I did NOT NEED). I was not pleased. Campground was beautiful (nestled at the feet of the Tetons) and as I was cycling in the wrong direction I meet Allie (out for an evening ride) - a woman who has an engineering degree but has spent the last 8 years out here in Jackson Hole, skiing during the days, waitressing tables at night.
"I just love to ski" she tells me "I just love it. You know?"
I KNOW!

Camped out at Jenny Lake. Cycled the 15 miles or so this morning into Jackson Hole where I plan to spend the day in the library, in the coffee shop, and otherwise NOT RIDING MY BICYCLE until about 3:00 pm, when i'm heading back out 35 miles to a campsite. (there isn't really anywhere to stay in town that's inexpensive). Of course if there is wind, I am not going anywhere. I do not care. i can not mentally handle another 35 miles into the wind. I would make it as far as the Jackson Hole Airport, and I believe that would be the end of my trip.

Here's hoping the days become less epic. I am starting to get really tired.

San Diego Zoo

2008-07-12T13:53:00.000-07:00

As I'm killing time avoiding the sun, I'd thought I'd give an update on this.

When I was in San Diego, I stayed an extra day and checked out the San Diego Zoo. I LOVED IT. Overheard all sort of great 'american quotes' my favourite being this woman, who after observing the polar bear exhibit commented on how adorable they were, then added : "We have *got* to take that trip to Canada." Clearly expecting to be greeted by frolicking polar bears once she crossed the 49th. In fact, I can't imagine a better way to discourage tourism than to have 'playful' polar bears waiting at the border crossings.

In her defence, these polar bears were RIDICULOUSLY cute. They wrestled, they played with their toys - one would sumersault into the water, and the other would watch carefully, then timing it correctly, bellyflop *ontop* of his friend, sending them both spinning to the bottom admist giant waves and spashes. At one point, one of the polar bears put a bucket on his head while wrestling - the other polar bear decides this is a great idea and puts a bucket on his head too. Now we've got two semi-blinded polar bears wrestling with each other with buckets on their heads - flapping their giant paws, backing over each other, bouncing off of walls, crashing into the water - cue giant air bubbles of surprise - are you getting the sense how cute these bears were? If I thought one of these goofballs was going to show up at my door, I would never leave Canada.

BUT that's not what this post is about. As a canadian, my admittance ticket got me a free tour and a free skyride (its a special discount for Canadians - probably a thank you for their number one exhibit). On this tour, the tour guide, a well spoken, knowledgeable woman said the following: 'and isn't it great that the San Diego Zoo provides free parking!' and I thought about it, and I didn't think it was so great that they were encouraging everyone to drive cars - but I didn't say anything.

Then I thought it about it some more, and that I should have said something. That it's because people like me don't say stuff that the world is in the shape that its in - that if you're not part of the solution you are part of the problem, yada yada yada.

So the next morning I decide to write an email to the San Diego Zoo, saying that I thought it was inappropriate that an institution that prides itself on its conservationalism efforts, subsdizes cars (via free parking) over alternative transportation. I suggested that they should charge for parking, and use those extra funds towards encouraging alt. transportation.

I get back as pretty basic Customer Service reply: Thanks for you comments, we love it when our guests take an interest... hope to see you again soon at the zoo...' malarky. Him/her also informed me that the parking lot was owned by the city and as such they couldn't charge for it.

I was off to the Grand Canyon and didn't really think much of it until I got to Zion, and suddenly had a lot of time to think. At which point I realized that it didn't matter whether it was the Zoo's decision to charge for parking or not, what mattered was the effect - and the effect was that people who drove were getting a benefit, thereby encouraging that behaviour.

So I wrote back. Outlining that arguement - and suggesting that since they couldn't charge for parking, at least they should offer a similar incentive for those who came by alternative transportation. A five dollar discount or something.

I would like to suggest that the Zoo offset this [driver benefit] by offering a discount/benefit for those who come by bus or bicycle. Perhaps five dollars off admission price for those who produce a bicycle or a valid bus ticket.

Initially, I do not believe (based on the few bicycles I saw in the bike rack) that such a policy would have a significant impact on your admission dollars generated. In the alternative, if it was wildly successful in encouraging individuals to leave their cars at home, to the extent it was impacting those dollars - then it would be a great accomplishment for an organization like yours.

I concluded with
I understand that you may not be the person making these policy decisions. But if you agree in principle with subsidizing alternative transportation - that it is a 'good idea' in line with the Zoo's objectives in promoting sustainability, I would appreciate you forwarding this email to the individuals who are responsible.

I get back nothing.

About a week later I get back a reply that is almost identical to the first reply they sent me, but with out the parking information.

NOW I'm annoyed. But more than that, I'm intrigued.

Offering a discount to cyclists or public transportation riders is a total no-brainer! OBVIOUSLY any remotely green organization should be doing that! Plus it would be so easy to do! There is no reason (that I can think of, or that they have provided me) why they are NOT doing it. Other than the obvious that someone can't be bothered to make a decision to do it.

So I'm intrigued to find out exactly how hard it is to get a good idea implemented, for no reason other than - it's a good idea!. Stay tuned!

learning about american geography the hard way.

2008-07-12T13:06:00.000-07:00

Those last fifty miles yesterday were a mistake. But the kind of mistake you don't realize you've made until it can't be fixed and there is nothing to do but put your head down and turn your feet.

For the last fifty miles, and for the next couple of hundred miles - I am in the Great Basin, WY. Defining characteristic? EXTRODINARILY WINDY. Yesterday's 50 miles started out fine, than deteriorated.

Hour one: 15 miles
hour two: 12 miles
Hour three: 10 miles
Hour four: 8 miles
Hour five: 5 miles.

(the wind just got worse and worse as the afternoon progressed. I couldn't hear anything because of its howling in my ears. Like, I was riding on a highway - couldn't hear traffic. I think this accounts for the large amount of roadkill I've seen on these highways (i stuck to the large shoulder). I was counting 5-10 carcasses a mile. Everything from snakes, to rodents, to birds, to deer.

At the point that you are cycling at five mph, you are pretty much just on a grim death march until the end. My personal litany in times like this is: 'Just keep turning the pedals. This is how the bike works. If you are turning the pedals, its working. Keep turning the pedals. This is how the bike works.' and 'No you are not allowed to get off your bike until you fall off it.'

At three miles left I tell myself: Its THREE MILES you could be dead and still cycle three miles. You aren't dead, so quit whinging!' (I have all sorts of sayings for different mileages)

Today has gone much better. On the advice of fellow tourers (who are all going the other way than me - I think it has something to do with the wind) I left at 6:45 am. Was in Rawlings by noon (60 miles). I have now met almost a dozen tourers. Including one guy who was bringing his dog. I look at her and my first question is: how much does she weigh? 50 lbs. She's an AWESOME dog though, so I can see how he couldn't leave her.

At the campground in Rawlings. Am not really looking forward to the next couple of hundred miles. But then Yellowstone! And people tell me it gets good around there.

why, it's almost fun!

2008-07-11T11:27:00.000-07:00

View Larger Map

Colorado is so far turning out much better. Right now I'm in Walden, CO, 'moose-viewing capital of Colorado' for those of you who feel your moose-viewing needs have been unmet.

Its GREEN here. And there are RIVERS and other BODIES of water. SNOW on the mtn tops. Pine forests (absolutely ravaged by the pine-beetle through). I've seen fly-fisherpeople. I've seen SIX other bike tourers. (all going the opposite way than me), and I think I surprised the first two when I swooped down across the road, exclaiming 'you're touring! hello! how *are* you?' and then stood there grinning. They were dutch (with American flags for some reason - although also dutch flags. So hedging their bets?).

Drivers give you lots of space. Did 75 miles yesterday about (2000 feet of climbing -crossed the continental divide), about 45 miles so far today. I was going to try to get here (Walden) for a diner breakfast, wake up early and all that - but when I woke up at 5:00 am, i discovered a layer of frost over all my stuff, including my clothes that I had left out to dry. It turns out that as keen as I may be on cycling (and diner breakfasts), I draw the line at putting freezer-burned clothes on first thing in the morning. I went back to bed and waited for the sun to peak over the mtns (8:00 am) - et viola - half an hour later, my clothes were de-iced and dry.

The next town is 50 miles up the road. But I don't really have any other plans for today, so might go for it.

eta: the san diego zoo is beginning to annoy me... but i think that will have to be a rant for another time.

new phone number 425-591-2581

2008-07-09T18:48:00.000-07:00

its one of those US pre paid ones. I'm only using it for the rest of the time i'm in the US. I probably won't be calling you unless I've got your number memorized b/c all the ones in my old phone have vanished.

UPDATE
- I am here in Denver, CO. YIPEEE
1)Yesterday rode 50-odd miles from Zion to St. George. 110 degrees, which wasn't even all that hot, compared to some of my previous days. Stayed at a hotel (only $40, couldn't be bothered to sort out camping). Plus clean at last! Showers! Nice cold showers!!! Was going to get a good night sleep before my long drive today, instead stayed up until 2:30 watching some sort of Deadliest Catch marathon. I think I was memorized by all that cold water. So much of it! So cold!
2) No cyclist ever needs to cycle the I-70. SO HAPPY TO BE IN CAR. That stretch of the road was the best argument I've ever seen for cars. Or teleporation. just Ugh.
3) Looking forward to cycling in the mountains. I think its going to feel like going home. Not alien, like the desert felt.

The first day of the desert (badlands whatever you want to call it) when I was driving out of San Diego, I stopped around noon and just stood outside my rental car. I was surrounded on all sides by endless sand dunes. The realizatoin hit me that *I* was probably the largest body of water for a significant distance. Right on the heels of this realization was a thought that every entity - living or not- in that desert was out to steal my water from me. Redistribute the wealth. The air felt like it was leaching water from my skin. I could picture all these desert creatures (tiny and large) suddenly sensing that I was there - this source of water, and slowly creeping up, surrounding me - it made the desert seem really hostile. So no, I didn't really like the desert. I had a few really nice moments, usually early early in the morning, just as the sun was peaking up over the horizon, with my cycling shadow self stretching miles across barren red lands. A sense of peace. But only very rarely. Usually you felt like you were racing the sun from the moment you turned the days' first pedal. And you were going to lose.

I asked Josh if he was going to do another bike tour. He said: Not in the desert.

I used to think I'd really enjoy living on Dune. Let me tell you: NOT ANYMORE!!!!!

Tomorrow: The third leg of TdeS begins!

2008-07-08T10:11:00.000-07:00

Good things:
- THE TENT HAS ARRIVED!
- Have found a car to rent from St. George Ut to Denver, CO (took calling eight different rental car companies, of course it was the last one - never give up! never surrender!)
- I'm leaving Zion!! (Zion, we had some good times, but ultimately, you made me feel trapped in the relationship)

Not-so-good-thing
- the bike map people sent me the wrong maps! they don't even CONNECT. So now I have to find a new address for them to send the right ones to me, and try to time it correctly. I can not wait until all I have to do is ride my bike again.
- all this fussing around means I'm going to have to haul ass to make it from Denver to Jasper through the rockies by the beginning of August. Depending on when I actually get started, we may be talking Tour de France mileage. A challenge worthy of Merle!

eta: merle's my bike.

eta2: a josh quote:
We were sitting at a picnic table, both of us eating bananas with nutella, using sporks.
Me: Know what's great about camping? How you do things you'd never do at home.
Josh: hmmm. (looks at himself) I hope I start showering again though.

Happy birthday to me!

2008-07-07T09:32:00.001-07:00

Yep! Its my 32nd birthday today! Born on the lucky double sevens of July 7th! I definitely can't complain about my luck to date. The year in review:
- spent a summer rowing with Claudia on Lake Windermere (I've ALWAYS wanted to spend some time rowing). Those day-breaks on the lake were amazing - with the dead flat water shrouded in a foot or two of mist that would slowly evaporate as the sun rose and our workout went on... and on ... :) (as a bonus, cycling in the rockies was pretty nice too)
- Spent December down in Ecuador learning Spanish and surfing and otherwise having a spectacular good time (except the decomposing tortoise incident).
- Spent a winter ski teaching some pretty fun and funny 5-6 year olds. ("Do you really have Santa's cell phone number?").
- had the best skiing of my LIFE in Fernie after it dumped three feet and my awesome and ridiculously understanding boss was like 'go skiing!'. I finally understood what is meant by bottomless powder - it's not really like skiing at all.
- Finally faced up to what I've really known since second summer of law school (coincidentally first time I tried to work as an actual lawyer) - that I'm not meant to be a lawyer.
- Started my bike tour in may. And you people pretty much know the rest :)

But my favourite thing about right now isn't what I've done in the last year, its that I have NO idea what I'm going to do next year! None! It could be anything! The mind boggles!!!!

Good things that have already happened today:
- had an awesome birthday latte ( I treated myself) at the local cafe. Even better is that they are showing the tour de france!! Spent 90 minutes watching the last part of a very gripping and exciting stage. If you are un(der)employed, I hope you are watching!!!!

In less great birthday news
- still no tent (but I think the campground host is taking pity on me and arranging it so I don't have to pay for camping - which at $16 a night is really nice.) How can the world have so many problems in it when there are so many nice people???
- My bike has a flat tire (HOW?????) and in trying to change it this morning, I discovered my pump is broken. Good news is I got a better pump for 6 dollars! (on sale from $35. I guess road bike pumps don't really sell in Zion.
- Having a fly that doesn't fit properly on your broken tent (and having no pegs to attach it to the ground) means that when the wind comes up your fly ballons like a spinnaker, flaps like a giant flightless bird, and creates a horrendous noise as your tent starts to elevate. I woke up disorientated and panicked early one windy morning thinking a helicopter was trying to land in my campsite (the campsite is large, my tent is small, it made sense at the time). Since then, I've just left my fly off. Other than waking up covered in a thin layer of red dust, its actually been a nice, cool(er) solution. Until yesterday when Monsoon season began in Zion National Park. I got back from my hike after a 30 minute deluge of rain to discover that my fly (having not been used for over a week) was just about the only thing dry, buried as it was under my soaked sleeping bag and thermal rest. Good news: Everything dries here in about 30 minutes.

ETA: oh and I promised Dennis I'd mention him in my blog. Dennis is a fiftish? gentleman who works in the park, who reminds me a bit of Morgan Freeman. He approached me, curious as to what my job was for the park (no doubt as it appears that I don't do anything, nor am I wearing a Ranger uniform). We got to discussing 'journaling' - he is trying to start an journal but is having trouble knowing what to put in it. I told him I put things I wanted to remember and things I didn't want to remember in mine.

unbelievable

2008-07-05T12:19:00.000-07:00

i just got an email from MEC which better be a *mistake* saying that they JUST shipped my tent to TORONTO thankyouverymuch.

I am SILENTLY SCREAMING right now.

eta: after calling MEC, it turns out that the tent IS coming here (not Toronto) and that it wasn't shipped today, but nor was it shipped on the 30th. It was shipped on July 3. Post Office is closed tomorrow. The soonest I can hope for it will be Monday July 7. After speaking articulately and silencing my inner scream on the phone (it is not, the person on the phone's fault, after all) I got my shipping paid back to me, and a $50.00 gift card to MEC as compensation. Which, better than nothing.

Josh is leaving tomorrow. Its been fun having someone to hike and do things with again. (He's a much more ambitious hiker so I don't do everything he does, but it generally seems to work out).

I just keep on reminding myself that there are worse places to spend a week and a half than Zion National Park (a lot of places actually, including an office :) and that it is a good thing that I can now probably sub in for a Ranger if the necessity arose.

Ranger Activites I can do:
- Recognize the call of the Canyon Wren
- Identify a Peregrine Falcon (dives over 200 mph).
- Have seen the freakiest looking bug ever (straight out of Pan's Labyrinth). Massive, bright blue, with red wings. Apparently its a form of wasp (biggest wasp I've ever seen) and has one of the most painful stings in the insect world. "...immediate, excruciating pain that simply shuts down one's ability to do anything, except, perhaps, scream."
- Have done all significant hikes from the main canyon.
- Can identify all significant landmarks in the main canyon
- Know the geological and social history of Zion National Park.

So the point is, if you are going to be in Zion over the next three days and need a guide, I'm here!

Sill in Zion

2008-07-03T11:49:00.000-07:00

I believe this is my fifth day in Zion (if you count the day I arrived)

Its beginning to feel a bit like home:
- The rangers no longer ask for my pass when I enter the park
- I've been shown the secret apricot tree
- Last night I was given the 'local's' discount at the cafe ('you are local, aren't you?')
- Just now the librarian asked if I was working in the park for the season. (I explained I was just squatting here until my new tent arrived).

As it has not arrived yet, the earliest I can hope for is the fifth. Last night was very very windy. Since all my pegs are being used to stabilize/brace the broken end of the tent, there is nothing securing the rest of it from the wind. I got up to go to the bathroom at two am, and when I came back, my tent had rotated 90 degrees, flipped to its side, and collapsed.

I WAS NOT PLEASED.

2008-07-02T12:33:00.000-07:00

my swiss hosts have moved on (however, I now have a place to stay ANYTIME I WANT in Switzerland. I was like 'cool'. Although i doubt I'll get to Switzerland in time to take them up on their offer. I've also been invited to Virginia by another set of my campground hosts - but I kind of feel these invitations have an unwritten expiration of two years.)

(The Virginia couple seem to want me to visit so they can find me a job).

In other news - Another touring cyclist has arrived at the campground - so now we're splitting a site. This is my third campsite in four nights? The way I've been skunking around the campground, dragging my broken tent after me from site to site, has made me feel like Zion's phantom of the Opera.

But back to the other cyclist!

His name is Josh, and this is his first tour too. Now, since I tried to bike from Phoenix to the Grand Canyon in June/July, I've decided it was insane. Josh's first tour? He biked from Yosemite to Zion through DEATH VALLEY. He said it was so hot that at night (no sleeping bag, no tent) he had to wake up every hour and spray himself with water from his camelback in order to stay cool enough to sleep. He started his day at 3:30 am.

Me: You win.

(To date, he's seen one other touring cyclist)

He's heading down towards the Grand Canyon then out to Monument Valley to New Mexico where his girlfriend is meeting him to drive him the rest of the way home (Oklahoma) .

Monument Valley is supposed to be its own special hell for a cyclist. I know because Dru (remember crazy Walmart Dru?) was obsessed with me cycling Monument Valley (because it was in Forrest Gump). She wanted me to do it EVEN though it was 100 miles out of the way, even though every bike store we went in to (three) all said : It's awful, don't do it.

Here is the conversation that we had in the Page bike shop.

Dru to Bike Store Guy (BSG): So, how do you get to Monument Valley?
BSG: You want to cycle Monument Valley?
Dru: She does (points at me)
Me: Not really. (we'd already been to two bike stores by this point)
BSG: We wouldn't recommend it. Its a desert.
Dru: But still.
BSG: Its a really dangerous road, too. There is nothing there.
Dru: But if you're going to anyway.
BSG: No one here cycles it at this time of year. There are sandstorms. Tremendous winds, dust everywhere. Temperatures at 120, road kill all over the place. And nothing, I mean, NOTHING, there.
(to me) Are you sure you want to cycle it?
Me: No, I don't want to do it.
Dru: How about you just tell us how to get there so we can see for ourselves?

( I had visions of Dru dropping me and my bike off at Monument Valley, then yelling 'Pedal!!' at me as she drove off - she was that persistent.)

Anyway. I wish Josh the best of luck, but for sure COUNT ME OUT. If there is one thing I've learned in the past two weeks, its when the local cyclists tell you 'don't do that' DON'T DO THAT.

eta: just read the wiki entry, and apparently, Airwolf - the supersonic helicopter from the 80s tv show - lives in Monument Valley. I'll have to tell Josh. It was also where the Griswald's car broke down in National Lampoon's Vacation. Still not enough to get me to bike there.

Happy Canada Day, Canada!

2008-07-01T11:38:00.000-07:00

I feel like I should be doing something to celebrate Canada Day - but its not like I even have a flag (unlike a couple of cyclists we ran into outside of Santa Barbara - they pitched their tent and then stuck an American flag in the ground next to it. I found it very weird that someone would carry a FLAG in their own country when I don't even carry a hairbrush (ditched it in Eureka).

Update:
Zion- still spectacular. Hiked around the 'weeping rock' this morning.
Tent - still broken. New tent still en route.
Hair - is getting a bit out of control. washed it last night but there some significant knots that are defeating my 'finger-combing' technique.
Mood - optimistic (of course!)

ZION!!!

2008-06-30T13:07:00.000-07:00

I love zion!!! I really do. Arrived at about 5 pm yesterday (80-odd mile day). Asked a swiss couple if they would mind if I shared their campsite (I offered to pay them but they refused). This is the best way to do campground camping I've found. I've done it three times, have yet to have to pay (although I always offer). Plus you get to meet interesting people. Just bike around the campground (I'm actually looking for other cyclists, but haven't found any yet) and then when you see some friendly looking people, just ask.

Anyway, my tent is still broken - the superglue was useless. My tent is current 'propped upright' thanks to the efforts of the South African couple next to us (and with a lot of rope, pegs, and a few rocks). My new tent is on the way from MEC, but they have no idea when it will arrive. As such I'm going to be hanging out here for the next bit.

Hiked this morning up a river, through ever-narrowing canyon walls. It was amazing. I will have no problem spending a few extra days here waiting for my tent. This place is on my top 5 list of amazing places - particularly the east section of the park that I biked through to get here. After an 8 mile climb, it was 20 miles downhill through these incredibly twisted rock formations. I have to do it again (and apparently I'll have the time) then one tunnel, and then the next.

The tunnels. I HATE tunnels. However, the second tunnel which is 1.1 miles long forbids cyclists - this is awesome cause it means that instead of having to ALMOST DIE cycling through it, the rangers standing there arrange transportation for you. Basically they flag down pick up trucks and you jump in the back with your bike. Then you get an awesome view of the tunnel and the 'windows' that have been carved out. I just wish my guy had driven slower.

ETA: Zion (Springdale) has a library!!!!!!! I am now officially totally set.

ETA: have figured out Leg Three of Tour de Sarah and have ordered maps (since I'm waiting for my tent might as well wait for my maps). I'm going to find alternate transportation from Cedar City, Utah, to Pueblo, CO and then start biking the 'Great Parks North Route' which will end me up right in Jasper!!

2008-06-29T11:22:00.001-07:00

Left North Rim, Grand Canyon, yesterday afternoon around three. Did 30 odd miles before (Joe and Michael be proud) ditch/wild camping. Everyone said it was a totally safe area to do it in, and the campground was closed anyway. HOWEVER - guess what happens? My tent breaks!!!!! BREAKS!!!! So, not only did I ditch camp I did it without the benefit of a functioning tent. (I crawled into the collasped netting with my thermal rest and sleeping bag. But I lasted the nighht even if I only slept three and a half hours. EVEN though I knew it was totally safe, I just have the worse time keeping my imagination under control. When we were kids, our dad used to encourage us to go to sleep by telling us that if we were awake at midnight the witches would get us (not exactly a relaxing bedtime thought). To this day I have problems with midnight.

However I did it. Packed up at first light, on the road by 5:30. Get to Kanab around 8:30 (after a 30 mile descent) where I buy superglue and hope that I've fixed my tent. Then off again. Now I'm at Mt. Carmel Junction, 15 miles from the East Gate of Zion Park, 25 miles from the visitor centre. Kanab to Mt. Carmel juction was 16 miles, 1000 feet of climbing in 95 degree weather, but I handled it ok. (I can't believe I once thought 500 feet was a big climb. Oh Washington!)

I'm probably going to hang out here until it cools a bit, then do the 25 miles to Zion. Have to figure out how to get to Bryce too. They aren't in the same direction apparently. Bryce is out of the way for me.

Bye!!

Still at North Rim

2008-06-28T09:51:00.000-07:00

The North Rim is great, better than the South. The hiker/biker section is the best part of the campground. I'm basically looking over the rim from my tent.

Also, there are lots of trails and hikes to do. Although I've pretty much only been doing the senior citizen ones - I'm just too tired. I've learned about Condors and met 74 year old Liz from Virginia who told me how 2 years ago she broke her leg in 2 places on the AT and had to walk three miles out to the road.

Update when I can.

North Rim - Grand Canyon

2008-06-26T17:06:00.000-07:00

- Turns out Dru was crazy. Not scary-crazy, but definitely extremely irritating-crazy. She's a 54 year old woman, who through no small effort looks about 45. She never stopped talking. She tried to Bogart my trip and took me on a tour of Wallmart ("There is this most amazing store that you just have to see to believe"). Lake Powell was NOT the prettiest lake and I am glad to be out of Page. She was one of those Americans who thinks Canadians are from another planet. Happy to have ditched her.

- Yesterday biked 70 miles from Page to just outside Grand Canyon North Rim. Unbelievably hot again. Shared campsite with two Dutch couples one of who was a cheese engineer (only in Holland). They shared their campsite, their beer and their fire. Also, Joe - I've met the girl for you. She doesn't even camp with a tarp! (She's a rafting guide in the Grand Canyon, she will be at a rainbow gathering in Serbia in August, her name is Cleo and she is awesome).

- This morning only biked 25 miles to the Rim, but am utterly exhausted. No energy for anything. Good news is beyond all liklihood the North Rim campsite has a hiker/biker! Of course I am the only biker here. Will probably spend a few days recovering here from hellish week in the desert. It is gorgeous here, cool with trees and wind. A lot like Canada. I miss Canada.

- Will be in Cedar City in about a week, need to decide what to do next. Am definitely taking first public transport out of here to somewhere cooler. It is too hot to bike.

- Phone's still broken.

2008-06-23T12:29:00.000-07:00

things just keep on happening and happening so quickly!

1)As I was biking from Williams to Flagstaff this morning (5:30 am - 8:00 am -32 miles) I passed that Arizona divide sign which said 7335 feet elevation. Then it occurred to me that some of my problems right now (not feeling well, mostly) might have something to do with altitude. I just spent 6 weeks on the coast, and then in the span of 2-3 days cycled myself up to 7000 feet in very grueling heat. As such I am determined to take a few days off

2) In the EXCELLENT NEWS! catagory - my roommate last night is driving pretty close to where I'm trying to get to (northern end of the grand canyon. She's also convinced me that I have to see Lake Powell. So I'm off to spend at least a day or two near a lake, and hopefully will start to feel a bit better. Her name is Drew. I think I'd like her very much even if she hadn't totally bailed me out. (There is no public transportation that accepts bikes up that way). Plus she's an ex-lawyer too!

3) Will try to sort my cell phone out in Lake Powell (as in, buy a new one)

So yes, not feeling 100% (haven't been for a few days) but am pretty confident I know why and that its fixable with a bit of rest. My bike is also being fixed as I type, and I get to go by car over the worse part of the grand canyon. Made a new friend. And apparently am off to see the 'prettiest lake in the world'.

2008-06-22T14:59:00.000-07:00

minus some sort of miracle the phone is dead. So will be less updates. On the plus side, can stop getting charged so much by Rogers.

In cycling news. I found the one road cyclist in town who

1) fixed my bike as well as he could
2) told me to cycle to Flagstaff to have a bike store do the rest.
3) told me it was not a good idea (as in, a bad idea) to cycle from here up to the North Rim, and that I should arrange other transportation to Zion National Park. I believe him. I believe the words he used was 'barren land, absolutely nothing, winds, dust being thrown at you, just a disaster of a ride'. Also, there is 140 mile section through a reservation with no camping, and he took a very dim view of me just 'camping somewhere'.

So changes will be made. I mean, I just want to cycle!!!!! I want somewhere safe and somewhat fun to cycle. Maybe I should head back up to Canada after Zion National Park? Or maybe its time for plan B and I should head south to a surf town and spend my last month surfing - I've lasted way longer than 2 weeks at this cycle touring thing. Or learning something new. I need to do some serious thinking.

ETA: For tonight, after spending 2 hours in the visitor information centre while Brad the town cyclist was located, i learned that one of the local hotels keeps one or two rooms as hostel rooms. I got one! I've had a shower, a nap, and feel much better, although still no where near 100%.

2008-06-22T12:28:00.001-07:00

ok. things just got worse.
My water bottle spilled all over my phone (and then my phone sat in the water for 30 mins), and now I think my phone is wrecked.

2008-06-22T12:12:00.000-07:00

ohmygod i don't even know where to begin. The fact that yesterday's bicycle ride ended 14 hours after I started, that I cycled almost 100 miles in ridiculous heat (and paid for it). That I had to push my bike up the last 200 meters? This place is so hard to ride in.

Then this morning, off early, am 5 miles from my destination when my rear tire disintegrates. Just poof. This is the kevlar reinforced tire that I bought in Oregan. Its been worn *through* the threads, leaving a hole I can push three fingers through. The tire is shot.

I'm not carrying an extra tire. I know next bike store is in Williams, so i stick my hand out and the first car (a 1970 something vw bus/camper van) stops. Its a family of four- Phil and Laura, and their two sons. They make space for me, and throw my bike up on the roof. I was thinkng that if I was Michael I could be making small chat about Phil's cool vehicle (wonderfully well maintained) but as I am not, I couldn't. He kept on telling me details about the engines, or the doors, and I went 'ohh' and 'ahh' as convicingly as I could.

Get to Willams (after, as navigator, I put them on the wrong road) only to find out that the bike store has closed. Great. Next nearest bike store is Flagstaff. So now I'm off to figure out how to get myself and my bicycle from here to Flagstaff.

Have I mentioned how hot it is? Killer.

Of course another potential plan is to take the grand canyon train from Williams (what its famous for). See the grand canyon that way. then get to Flagstaff and reevaluate where exactly I want to be cycling right now. THIS IS JUST SO TOUGH.

In two days I've *needed* rides twice, lost a tire, broke a spoke, almost had heat stroke, had to take breaks climbing a hill, and had to push my bike.

IT IS JUST SO TOUGH.

Rogers Wireless Message

2008-06-21T16:59:00.001-07:00

day turned around magnificantly thxs 2 Pat and his van. Savd me 25 m of HELL. am now resting half way up last climb b4 Prescott.

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2008-06-21T11:28:00.000-07:00

I'm not going to lie. Today has not been an easy day. And its only 11:00. Maybe I need a diner?

Left the Phoenix Hostel a bit past five am (could have left earlier). Cycled the 60 odd miles here (Wickenburg). This was going to be my destination because the temperatures are so hot - i thought, 60 miles the first day in this heat - that's more than enough. Turns out that the camping here is RV only. So instead I'm going to take a break here until two or three (hang out in the library) then push on to the next labelled campground - Yarnell - another 30 miles but with 2000 feet elevation gain. I am however, not hopeful that it will accept tents either as it is called Oak Park Motel and RV Park. But there isn't any point in staying here.

Also, I got a flat. So now I'm worried about being down to one spare (Bike store tomorrow).

Also, I just found out that the library closes at noon (this is the kind of day its being). So I'm going to need to find some other a/c building to chill in for a few hours.

I don't know. Its just a tough day. Tomorrow will be better.

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2008-06-20T19:31:00.001-07:00

Phoenix,AZ -hostel. Renting car 2 get here was good idea. hot. 2morrw nxt leg begins! i predict it will also b hot. :)

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Still in San Diego

2008-06-18T20:04:00.000-07:00

Today we got to Mexico!!!!! Or the border. The day got off to a slow start as I watched youtube conspiracy theorists on the topic of the American government being competent only in so far as it is corrupt (I am not a tough sell on this one, for pretty much any govt - thank you law profession). While this could be seen as added motivation to get to Mexico, in reality it only meant that we didn't leave until almost 11:00 am. Both of us under the impression that it would be a 35-ish m ride. Should take us two hours.

We got back at 8:00 pm (9 hrs!!!). Turns out it was more like 55 miles, setting our average speed at a blistering 6 mph. We dallied through pedestrian packed bike paths ('don't these people have jobs!') stopped to watch surfing (we actually watched surfers watching waves, but so it goes). Stopped for an hour long lunch at the best rib place ever (Phil's??). Then sat on a ferry, where upon disembarking, we got real ice cream. Which we sat around and ate.

Its past four at this point and we decide we should just get to the border, which should be right around the corner. IT WAS NOT. First there was a (practically) endless bike path for 10 miles. Then we took this right turn, and suddenly, instead of cars, buses, and general urban sprawl of the last 100 miles or so, there was a cowboy cantering down the road on his horse. (while it took a while, we did eventually pass him). There were sprawling ranches, grassy fields, horses everywhere. Not what I was expecting from the mexican border based on Babel. It was great! A few more miles later and we were back, surrounded by cement. Got close enough to practically cross the border. Then caught the train back to Michael's place.

You know. I love my bike. But sometimes, I can love a train too.

Rogers Wireless Message

2008-06-17T22:05:00.001-07:00

90 odd m 2 san diego 2day. Felt pretty long. I am only homeless person in Michael and Lindsay's apartment. yey!

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Leaving LA

2008-06-16T16:30:00.000-07:00

Off tomorrow. Its been an excellent visit. Haven't done much since the Getty Center except watch golf. Which I don't play and don't really even like. But I started watching it Saturday. Got sucked in for Sunday, and of course had to watch Monday!

Besides, most of LA sight-seeing seems to be composed of seeing stuff I've already seen on tv. So clearly my time was better spent learning intricate details of what might be wrong with Tiger's knee.

the other benefit of this stressful tv watching regime is that I feel revitalized and excited about getting back on my bike tomorrow.

LA

2008-06-14T05:14:00.000-07:00

Made it to LA! I'm current staying at a friends' apartment on the border of Hollywood and West Hollywood. She described it as a 'hole'. I describe it as a miraculous palace with easy water access, with room to sleep both on a sofa and the floor! Oh and a massive 30 odd foot ceiling. I met Nicole in law school on exchange in Australia, although she's not exactly a lawyer.

Me: And then I want to take you out to dinner as thanks for letting me stay here, I really appreciate it.
Nicole: No need!
Me: Seriously, I really appreciate it, its the least I could do.
Nicole: I just won $7,000 in a poker tournement. I'm taking you out.
Me: Okay!

The last few days into LA have been a bit of a blur. We (was still with Michael) did an excellent detour into the Valley - into Buelton - met Beth and Tim - had way too much famous Anderson Pea Soup. Which wasn't all that exceptional, and insisted in sloshing around in my stomach for the next 15 miles through the heat.

That night we stayed in a campground designed for a couple of thousand campers, but it was basically just us. Which you would think would be peaceful and relaxing but it was not. Every animal who lives off those thousands of campers decided to come investigate us. As a result, at least two skunks (Michael's reaction when they showed up was to promptly question me on skunks and their behaviour. Like I have some degree in skunkology - avoid them, was my advice.), probably somewhere near half a dozen racoons, and dozens of these chipmunk/prairie dogs came to visit. Within five minutes of sunset three creatures had triangulated themselves around our position, their eyes glowing eerily at me as I tried to plan out my escape to the bathroom - not being able to determine skunk or racoon in the darkness made it even more treacherous. I want to scare racoons, but not skunks! That night, you could hear their feet scurriring around your head from inside your tent. I really missed joe and his tarp - they would have loved investigating him! I'm sure if Joe was there I would have slept soundly and in the moring have been greeted by a hollow-eyed Joe rendering epic battle tales of the creatures he faced off with in the night.

The next day was a treat of a climb. 2225 feet of hellish heat pounding away on my bike and back for four and a half miles. To badly paraphrase Tolstoy - every descent is enjoyable for the same reasons, every climb is horrible in its own unique way. The unique moment of hell on this climb was when the sweat on my face felt like it was being boiled off by the sun. I thought: This is new.

Down into Santa Barbara, which I wasn't overly impressed with. But then again, I'm not in a cityscape frame of mind. Out along the beaches until we hit the campground. The problem with camping near cities is that the hiker-biker spots are an attractive option for vagrants. For three to five dollars a night, anyone can stay. Don't even need a tent. We first encountered homeless in Monterey. None of them we have met so far seem dangerous, but many have been distinctly weird. We have also met a fair share of weird non-homeless people. Michael's british accent* seems to attract them - plus I have observed that his technique of ending a conversation with people by asking them more questions - is a failure.

[*A good number of people, upon hearing his accent, ask if he's canadian - which never fails to crack me up]

Anyway, weird people at campgrounds. The night before last, in the last campground before LA were two gems. Not homeless per say, but these two guys living on their bikes for most of the year. The first one , a large guy built like the stay-puff marshmellow man, introduced himself as an ex-navy seal, wounded in combat (his neck) who had issues from all the people he killed. He dealt with his issues by riding his bike instead of booze and drugs like many of his peers.
"I'll be honest with you. I've killed people. And not just a few people. I count 47 people." at this point I was overcome with an extrodinarily inappropriate urge to laugh - I mean who says stuff like this????? what ever happened to 'hi, nice to meet you?'

I start twisting my face in an effort to make the massive smile spreading across my cheeks look like benign interest. He clarifies : "and not from a distance. we are talking up close and personal. Saw their eyes right before I pulled the trigger. That's right." (Now my eyebrows are slanting sideways as I try to squeeze every feature of my face together in an effort to really really not laugh. My eyes start to water. Meanwhile Michael, dead face serious, is nodding his head 'yeah, yeah'. The ex-navy seal concludes with this line: 'But those bastards deserved it - Terrorist sonsofbitches, Baby-killers. We couldn't let them get away with that.' Then he informs us that he's down to his last dollar (four dollars to my name) as his disability pay doesn't come in until the first and he had unexpected bike repairs. I excuse myself.

Later his friend, a 60 year ish man come by to chat - as he's been doing this cycle trip for something like three years I ask him if he sees many solo women cyclists (being that I have met none on this trip, and no one I have talked to have either). Oh yes, he says, and starts in on this tale of this German woman who took sponge baths in her open tent, and then chased him down to put sunscreen on her back. I'm sure he meant this to be a reassuring tale, but all I could think was great - the first other women solo cyclist i've heard about- and she's an absolute nutter. Not very reassuring. Oh and this guys opinion on skunks? 'Not that bad. Been sprayed a couple of times. Don't really see what the fuss was about.' a statement which beggers belief.

Anyway, plan to spend a few days in the relative sanity of LA - hanging out with Nicole, checking out the Getty Center, then cycling down to San Diego to stay with Michael and his wife, from where i will complete the ride to Mexico and then take off on the next leg! For now though, I'm happy to be not riding my bike (sorry bike, but we've done a lot of cycling since San Fran) and sleeping indoors for a bit :)

Map from San Fran to LA

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2008-06-12T20:42:00.001-07:00

30 m north of LA. South CA a bit of a dive compared 2 rest of coast. Looking 4ward to LA.

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2008-06-09T10:38:00.000-07:00

Yesterday cycled 70 miles in about 4.5 hours to end up in San Simeon, which was a bit of an effort. Plus a never ending hill. Seriously, I'm still slighlty surprised it has ended. Just turn and after turn, up and up. The reason for the rush? to get to Hearst Castle to see it. As much as gawking at the unreasonable expenditure of money does not usually appeal to me, I really felt that as i was cycling past it, I should see it. It was like what I'd imagine a really expensive Euro-Disney magic castle would look like. The pools were AMAZING. The tour was a bit pro-Hearst for me.

The coast yesterday? Monstrous!! Just gorgeous, never ending cliffs, ocean, blue skies, and climbs. Also never ending climbs.

Rogers Wireless Message

2008-06-07T21:22:00.001-07:00

Big Sur. 2day was awesome. 1 of top 3 bike days. Joe, u r an idiot! Love Sarah.

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2008-06-06T20:21:00.001-07:00

monterey. 40 miles but WINDY. Aquarium good, campgrnd weird. Still w Michael.

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2008-06-05T22:01:00.001-07:00

Brighton beach state prk. 56 m. 9 hrs. V close 2 tears whn spnt 2 hrs chnging tube. 2 hrs! Horrible. Then got lost. Also horrible.

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2008-06-04T06:44:00.000-07:00

Heading off again today. Muchos gracias to Rosemary, Mike and Erin for letting me crash at their respective places. Despite the wonderful hospitality I am looking forward to being back on my bike alot. A bizarre amount, actually. Today a short trip to Half Moon Bay State Park, and then back into it proper tomorrow. Joe actually did leave and head back to Spokane, but might join me again when I do Nothern B.C.

Day before yesterday I'm wandering through SFMOMA (love it!) and who taps me on the shoulder but Alfred. He doesn't look at all surprised to see me.

"San Francisco - it's not so big. I expected to run into you today."

Which, its a bit bigger than that!

british touring techniques

2008-06-03T14:13:00.001-07:00

please observe Michael cycling the lost coast climbs. Joe is the camera person.
I recommend you turn up the volume

2008-05-31T23:36:00.001-07:00

palo alto -75 miles of riding today.
We didn't hit the golden gate bridge until about five, i think, (we started as 8:30) but it was a perfect time. When you cycle from Victoria BC, you really appreciate the moment of arrival. HUGE wind gusts (was worried about losing my tent) and Joe turned a corner and got blown into the railing - as he was only going 2 mph at the time it was just really funny. Then into San Francisco, where I caught the Cal Train to Palo Alto to visit Rosemary. I will try to update more later - the Northern California coast since the 'Lost Coast' has been beautiful in a very different way than the Oregon Coast. However, it has been utterly lacking in cell phone service - hence the lack of updating. HOPEFULLY the cell service will be back as I continue South. First however, I plan to spend a couple of days here organizing gear, cleaning clothes (and me!) and generally taking a bit of a luxurious break from my cycling travels. Tomorrow- Starbucks!

Fort Bragg, CA

2008-05-27T13:13:00.000-07:00

We (I'm back with Joe and Michael) survived the lost coast!!!!!
The hills were so ridiculous steep that Joe and Michael actually fell off their bikes with laughter when they saw one of the climbs. I was a head of them, and all I could hear were these shrieks - they sounded like they were being tortured.

Joe: I don't think we're cut out for this.
Michael: No, we're not.

Seriously, the steepest I've ever climbed I think - never have I been in so much pain on my bike after a deadly false summit. I thought we were done the climb, put back on all my layers, took a break, only to discover that we were barely half way. Brutal. But at the same time we got magnificent views, and some utterly insane descents where I thought Joe was going to come a cropper for sure ('i don't want to wear down my brakes by using them.')

Then we cycled down the Avenue of the Giants. More gigantic redwoods. Unfortunately my cell phone has either had no reception or has had a dead battery (I lost the part of the solar panel that charges the phone). Going light was the way to go. I'm never going to go back. I'm probably carrying about 15 lbs of gear and I love it!!! Even if i am down to the absolute basics in terms of clothing, and well, in terms of everything. One short sleeve cycling jersey, cycling shorts, leg warmers, arm warmers, one long sleeve jersey, rain jacket, one pair of socks. One pair of cycling shoes, one pair of crocs, one pair of normal pants, one merino wool t-shirt. Tent, thermal rest, sleeping bag, Phone and charger, cycling multitools and spare inner tube. Head lamp, sunscreen. Guide book. Journal, one pen, one pencil. One bike lock. Helmet. Glasses. Toothbrush, contacts, nail clipper, toothpaste, contacts, soap.

I think that is everything.

Also, i have been into almost every bike shop between Victoria BC and Fort Bragg, and Arcata's and Eureka's were both awesome. I'm predicting that my bike problems will lessen now that I'm carrying way less gear and not dragging Bob around after me.

We are all rather wrecked after all the climbing and need a break - at this rate, who knows when we will get to San Fran. Every hill feels like a mountain.

Also, there are a lot of weird people in Northern California.

Rogers Wireless Message

2008-05-22T21:30:00.001-07:00

Ferndale CA. Back w joe n michael 4 lost coast 2morrow. Have ditched bob n have snt 20 lbs of gear 2 SanFran. Brng on the climbs!

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2008-05-21T16:43:00.000-07:00

so much keeps on happening that I almost wish that I had decided to bring a laptop to update. I say almost because ohmygod! i'm still lugging too much stuff behind me.

Right now: I am updating from a KOA just south of Arcata, north of Eureka. I am waiting to see if two other cyclists who I am expecting will show up so we can split camping costs.

Yesteday: Amazing cycle through the California redwoods. I can't imagine a better way to see the trees then by bike. I felt sorry for all the motorists zooming by. The scenic routes!! I almost biked myself off the road twice with all the rubber-necking at the trees. Two significant climbs yesterday - over 1000 feet each i think, but was ok, because the gradient wasn't bad and the weather was nice and cool with a strong tail wind (for once!)

Also yesterday: Joe, Michael and I split up to continue our own trips. In case they read this: THANK YOU GUYS FOR AN AWESOME TRIP DOWN THE OREGON COAST. Alfred, thank you too for delicious steak, guitar playing, and for showing us how to bike tour with some european style. It was sad to see such a good thing come to an end, but I barely had a chance to shed a tear as I left them in the campground when some dude also touring appeared on my wheel wanting to chat. For the love of god! what does one have to do to cycle in some peace? I dropped him in like two block and never saw him again. It was never going to work.

Also today: visited my FIFTH bike shop of the trip. So far I've had repairs, tune ups, cleats replaced on my shoes, my rear casette replaced and today the guy fixed the wobbling in my rear wheel that had appeared yesterday (was driving me crazy), and informed me whoever built my wheel did it a cm wrong. All is apparently all fixed and I should have no more problems. We will see.

Also today: Got more information about the Lost Coast Century i want to do. Apparently it is full of epic climbs and can be done in two days with gear or one without - as there is no way I am dragging Bob up 20-25% gradient climbs I'm going to leave Bob behind and do it in a day. Based on weather reports I'm going to go on Saturday, taking friday as a rest day. The bike store guy (the last one) was very enthusiastic about my plan which makes me feel better about it.

Also today: STEEP climb up to Lady Bird Johnson Grove. I don't know why I'm mentioning it here cause I know I am never going to forget it. To all future cyclists, it was most definitly not worth it, AND because I had misread my guide book I only had my cycling shoes and so chewed up my new pair of cleats (bike store four) on the gravel of the 1 mile hike. But after all the suffering I was going to get every peice of information and vista out of that stop that I could.

Tomorrow continuing down the 101 to Marine Garden Club Grove in Hunboldt Redwoods State Park where I'm going to camp the night, and spend the next day before starting my tour.

Rogers Wireless Message

2008-05-19T21:28:00.001-07:00

60 m. Harris beach 5 m north of CA. OR coast - fantastic. Xtrmly good weather. Hills getting bigger each day!

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2008-05-18T11:56:00.001-07:00

i am updating from alfreds laptop in brandon, or. alfred is a cycling dentist with a beautiful bike and spanish guitar. in another mile or so we will see large sea stacks with beach acess to walk among these giant monoliths. right now a mist has rolled in and we are waiting for it to clear while enjoying fish and chips.

on our day off yesterday we did lots of hiking along rocky capes. amazing views in the sun . so much keeps on happening that it will have to wait until i can properly update. still travvelling wit michael and joe.

Rogers Wireless Message

2008-05-17T12:25:00.001-07:00

Day off in sunset bay state park! hot hot hot! Keeps getting better!

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2008-05-15T22:29:00.001-07:00

D12- sml distance. Ez day. Added gear 2 bike in anticipation of climbs looming ahead in CA. weather? gorgeours. Views? epic.

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Rogers Wireless Message

2008-05-15T13:23:00.001-07:00

D11 60 m. No reception @ camp. Buying food in florence OR. SUNNY! Joe MIchael and I are mini peleton.

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Rogers Wireless Message

2008-05-13T21:55:00.001-07:00

D10-35 m. motel 6 w michael n joe after a day of rain n sick hills. Heaven 2 b dry!

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2008-05-12T21:14:00.001-07:00

D9- 50m big hills. Cape lookout state park @ OR. Michael joined bike posse. Lost joe. Heard B Clinton spk in tillamook. Found Joe.

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Rogers Wireless Message

2008-05-11T21:38:00.001-07:00

D8- 30m big hills. Nehalem bay state park @ OR. Got v wet. Coast v nice.

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2008-05-10T18:07:00.000-07:00

I'm in the town of Seaside, OR, just below the Washington border. Joe (who I met in a cafe eating brunch) and I are hiding out from the rain. Yes rain. After really quite fortunate weather, and an 85 m marathon bike ride yesterday beside a wildlife sanctuary, we woke up to pouring rain this morning. We had opted for an easy day, and in fact couldn't motivate ourselves out of our respective 'tents' (he has a tarp! shoulda brought a real tent!) until ten in the morning. Then we began our leisurely cycle. Leisurely my ass. HEAD winds blowing south to north the entire time. Thick fog. The miles just crawled by. Except for the 200 meters through a tunnel where my life flashed before my eyes. Ugh I hate tunnels. Then it was the astoria bridge. Which as I finally finished, a shattered mess, Joe cycles up behind me equally shell shocked and goes 'why is there a mountain in the middle of a bridge?'

How the bridge works is after a mile and a half of cycling on this bridge, when you think - maybe you are almost done - you look a head and see looming out of the midst, a wall of cement. You think - what could that possibly be? It couldn't possibly be the bridge. But it is! In the middle of the bridge is a HALF MILE GRANNY GEAR CLIMB. Joe told me "i looked over the side, saw the water, and thought: I could just end it right now."

Finally we roll into Astoria, and immediately have to cross another bridge - the shoulders are of course a complete mess - hub cabs, giant rocks, garbage. Winds even stronger. We are going even slower. And then another 17 miles of cycling to get to Seaside where I promise Joe beer if we can only stay in the hostel (it is still pouring rain horizontally in our faces) . I win! we are in the hostel about to go get some beer. If the weather is like this tomorrow we've mutually agreed to take a real rest day (no way does today count, plus you can't see anything of Oregan's supposedly gorgeous coast, so what's the point?)

Food:
I am fueling this bike trip off of cliff bars and truck stops. After my last update, I was heading out of previous hostel in Port Townsend. The 'all you can eat breakfast' consisted of english muffins and some orange slices. Feeling pretty good. But not for long. It was cold, and after twenty miles I didn't see how I was possibly going to do another 40 that day. Plus a large climb. No way. I had given myself three increasingly desperate pep talks by the time I pull into Quilcene, WA. I longed for a starbucks. No luck. The closest is the "Logger's Diner' complete with Neon 'cafe' sign. The waitress calls me 'hon' and there is a cup of coffee on the table before I even sit down. There are about half dozen other people there, some locals, some passing through. I order scrambled eggs, hashbrowns and toast for 5.99. Now I don't know if it was the hash-browns or the three cups of coffee, or the chorus of 'good lucks' and the one 'go get em' - but when I left there wasn't a problem in the world I couldn't have solved. Hopped on my bike, and spun up Mt Walker without turning a hair. I am a convert. You can not fuel a days worth of cycling off pieces of bread and some jam. You need truck stop foods. For diner Oat Bran. All the rest of the time? Cliff Bars.

Joe: I met Joe yesterday at the diner brunch stop . He's just finished his undergrad and has until early June for this trip. I convinced him to join me for the last 50 miles and we bike pretty well together - he's on a refurbished beater bike but keeps up pretty well :)

ok ... I think its beer time!

Trip so far ...

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Rogers Wireless Message

2008-05-09T21:42:00.001-07:00

D6-85 m. @ ilwaco. Xcllt biking. Met joe. We r camping as he loses war w coon. Tmrrw short and ez 2 OR.

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Rogers Wireless Message

2008-05-08T19:53:00.001-07:00

Camping at twin harbor state park in middle of family reunion. Last night was at potlatch
State park.

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2008-05-08T19:24:00.001-07:00

D5-75 m. Wind. 8 hrs on bike into wind/rain. May still be biking. Can't tell. Whr is my fitness?

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Rogers Wireless Message

2008-05-07T20:08:00.001-07:00

Day4-1 flat. Am camping w 2 other cyclists! Exciting!

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2008-05-06T19:59:00.001-07:00

Day3-50 m 2 pt townsend hostel. Excited 4 bed! Going 2 bed now. 67 m 2mrrw.

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2008-05-06T08:48:00.000-07:00

Have few scant minutes as being charged arm and leg for internet access at Orcas Island Cafe while waiting for ferry. Not all is terrible. They also have a real cafe. yummmm chai latte.

The islands have been really nice for me - I got lucky with the weather, and the cycling (my fitness issues aside!) is nice. Rolling hills and sceneic shots of the sound. Yesterday it took me an hour to pack up camp, this morning 45 minutes - I think things are going to slowly work themselves out.

Even Bob and I are starting to get along (better) (although I need to get rid of more stuff!!!!) and we had our first crash as I was trying to walk my bike out of my camp site which required going down a slippery hill in my bike shoes. Basically - i didn't have enough traction, it was really steep, the bike took off with bob and me with it. But nothing hurt or harmed.

I will need to get a US phone if I'm going to keep texting/updating, as apparently its only free for me to receive texts. So if you don't hear for me as frequently for the next bit, that's why. Oh and on a related note, cell phones are a consumers nightmare. I kept on telling the Roger's representative 'I swear I'm not an idiot but I just don't understand what you are saying - i have the unlimited international text plan and I'm still being charged $2 for each text out of the US?
Him: "maybe. It's not exactly clear."

Also. got delayed a bit at the border crossing onto the San Juan island when I irritated the border guard by not having a plan.

Him: If you don't have a plan, how do I know your plan isn't to come into the States get a job?
me: But I just finished my job!

Once he found out I was a lawyer he relaxed. If there is one profession that has a hard time working illegally, Lawyers would be it.

Ok off to enjoy my scone!!!!!!!

Rogers Wireless Message

2008-05-06T07:15:00.001-07:00

Day2-Orcas isl. hills hills hills. Ugh hills. Sunny!

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Rogers Wireless Message

2008-05-05T09:01:00.001-07:00

9:00 am day 2 is underway! Gorgous day 4 cycling. Bob weighs a ton.

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Rogers Wireless Message

2008-05-04T17:13:00.001-07:00

San juan isld. Have made camp near ocean.
BEAUTIFUL. Tired and hungry!

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